Valhalla Diary pt. 1: FA Attempt on the Angel Wings and Saber Ridge

According to Norse mythology, Valhalla is located in Asgard and is a heaven-like hall for warriors slain in combat. Upon death, the chosen are led to Valhalla by the female figures known as Valkyries. There, under the rule of Odin, they will prepare for the future battle known as Ragnarök. In the High Sierra, Valhalla is a cirque of steep alpine walls, famous for the massive formation known as the Angel Wings – one of the tallest and most massive walls in the range. There is no surprise the biggest names in the American, as well as in the local climbing community have tried or did put up routes on the magnificent formation - Galen Rowell, Fred Beckey, Peter Croft, John Long, Peter Mayfield, EC Joe, Dave Nettle, Richard Leversee, Urmas Framosch, Allen Steck, Les Wilson, Jim Wilson and many more are part of the rich history. The High Sierra’s own Asgard.

Angel Wings and Cherubim Dome

Walker (green shirt), Luke and Mike. 

Castle Rocks

Panther Peak

Luke on Saber Ridge

 Incredibly scenic, rich with mystery and possibility for adventure, it was the next logical step. Armed with Luke, a good friend and a strong climber, we planned a seven day trip. We had two cruxes: our high drive to climb EVERYTHING and lack of mules for the approach. The second crux was solved when we found out our friends Mike and Walker are hiking out to climb the Valkyrie (V 5.11+/5.12-) over the weekend. "How about you guys hike the rack and the rope in and we hike it out?" We had a deal. The desire to climb EVERYTHING remained. 

Purdy

Stunning views towards Hamilton Dome

Luke 'The Energizer"

Walker taking care of thirst during the 17 hour approach

The classic view of the Angel Wings

Day following the scenic approach Walker and Mike climbed their objective and we scoped out a potential new route on the West Buttress of the Angel Wings, after which we had enough time to continue on to scramble the Saber Ridge.
The weather forecast was not ideal but soloing makes the climbs go by fast and we were back at camp by the time the shit hit the fan. It was the 4th of July weekend and we were getting one of the best shows imaginable. Water grooves on Cherubim dome turned into raging waterfalls and hail as large as your typical grape pounded us in camp. While we were enjoying the show from the tent, we knew our friends are climbing the Valkyrie so we were fairly nervous for their safety. Both of them are strong climbers that have freed multiple El Cap routes so turned out they topped out at two pm and climbed only the last pitch in the light rain. When they got back to camp a few hours later we were both excited to see them unharmed and impressed by their speed. 

Luke marmot-huntin on our 'off day'

The Golden Pillar - our attempt went up the left side of the formation. In a few weeks I returned with Adam Ferro to completed the climb to the top - Killing In The Name Of (V 5.11+ A2). It traversed over towards the middle and climbed a prominent chimney/crack system to the left of the middle. We started at the base in the early morning and topped out before 10 pm. An ass kicker of a day, but that's a different story...Beckey Route starts from the Juniper tree on the right side and ascends the left facing corner before traversing out into the chimney system on the right. Upper part of the wall has a lot of overhangs and systems that don't connect.

The hike in

More flowers

Was hard to catch these in focus with the stream in the background blurred out. 

Luke leading up the steep and slightly overhanging pitch mid way up the new route on Angel Wings

A few words about the Saber Ridge: DAMN!!!! That thing is awesome. We were climbing with GIANT smiles ALL DAY. Features on the crest were awesome and the rock climbing was fantastic. It was more fun, more sustained and in a better setting than the Matthes Crest, in my opinion. Not twice as long as some people say but about the same length as the full Matthes traverse. Has a short 5.7-8 crux near the beginning and continues up mostly 4th and easy 5th scrambling up the crest. Exposed at all times...and again, mega fun! Both of us thought it was a 5 star outing.The following morning we hiked to the base of the Golden Pillar - the beautiful West Buttress of the Angel Wings. If you looked at the photo and immediately guessed that Fred Beckey has climbed it, you are partially right. Fred along with several people climbed a route that starts on buttress. The proj took them several trips over a multiple year span to complete. The route starts by a giant Jupiter tree and traverses off the Buttress proper to finish in a giant chimney system to the east of buttress proper. The lack of a route that would ascent the buttress proper was something I was eager to fix.

Saber ridge is a blast. Just look at that happy face!

Posing :)

Knife edge!

Luke on the ridge

Too much fun!!!

The day after a fairly large storm we started up the line we looked at the day prior. The beginning turned out to have a scary move off the deck. I placed a few microcams in a thin flake and cranked into a dirty layback. In addition to dirty, it was running with water and the cam I was able to fiddle in pulled out two times before I found the position in which it held a mild yank. I did not know how well it would hold a fall, but that was the price of entering the crack system above. I was not planning to fall on my last piece, so I executed the next moves to the belay without a f*** up. Luke took the next lead and found a BEAUTIFUL corner that went at mid 5.11 and would be a classic at the cookie cliff. Laybacking, short wide section, a beautiful hand crack and a section of techy crank fest to reach a belay stance. The following pitch started out from a fun layback to a giant loose block, which is now gone. :) It continued into a short chimney and 50 feet of splitter hand jamming in a corner. We were getting lucky with the quality, but the real difficulties begun on the next pitch. After a bouldery start Luke had to do a bouldery 5.11 moves off a big ledge. He likes his ankles and I was on top rope, so we both sent.

Woot!

Me following the second pitch - would be a classic at the Cookie or Arch Rock

Cranky steep layback to begin the 3rd pitch

Luke is excited about the climbing we found on the Angel Wings

Me on the "A5 traverse"

Luke onsighting a 5.11 crack/flake pitch mid way up the new route on the Angels Wings

The following pitch was the blank crux that we expected. Two crack systems we have scoped from the ground were separated by 100 feet of steep blankness. We dubbed it "the A5 traverse" before it was even climbed. It was my lead - make it or bail type of a pitch. In the beginning I mantled to a ledge that had a crack I could slide the widgets into but it ran into nowhereland which had some features that to my surprise, possibly, seemed free climbable?! I hooked a sloping feature and drilled the first bolt. Hard face climbing got me to another desperate stance but my single hook was not working well for the only hookable feature. I tried to drill at an angle and it seemed to work well till the thing popped. I took a swinging fall back to my last bolt and climbed back to the stance. What I saw was a pleasant surprise, the thin edge of a flake turned into a solid crimp which I was able to hook and use as a solid hand hold when I returned into the free climbing mode. Several thin moves past the bolt got me over to the easier terrain which offered some shitty gear under a rotten flake. Luke followed the pitch free and swong into the next lead – a steep flake system with all sorts of cruxes along the way. Following the pitch in the blazing sun and swinging into an OW crack got me worked enough - to my disappointment the system above did not look much easier. 

Luke having a blast! Because he sent the crux of the A5 traverse - otherwise it would be an A4 type of fall :)

Luke following a burly OW mid way up our attempt at a new route on the West Buttress

Cherubim Dome from Hamilton Lake camp

Ok...I like flowers, deal with it!

Glacier Ridge from the top of Saber Ridge

Luke fought with another difficult flake system till popping his own hook while drilling a bolt. To our surprise the gear in a Wheat Thin-like flake held his fall. However, the terrain above looked blank. After fighting the sustained pitches, most of which were in the 5.11 range and killing precious time on drilling, both of us were worked and dehydrated. About half way up the wall, we decided to bail. Due to our physical condition, it was an easy decision. Both knew that a ground up in a day first ascent on the Angel Wings would be a rare achievement, which on that particular day we were not gonna get. The following day was supposed to be the day we rest and regroup. We managed to rapell to the base without doing anything TOO crazy, depending who you ask. It was the time to take off the ankle burning climbing shoes and sort the rack. Last task was pulling the rope. It went well, till the end of our tag line created the knot. To our disappointment, the knot jammed on top of the second pitch and our sad faces did nothing to free it. “I guess our rest day will not be as restful as we’d like.”

Bubbs Creek Wall - The Emperor Goes Free! :)

Over the last two years I spent about thirty days in the Bubbs Creek Wall area. I hiked over two hundred and twenty miles and drove much more then I would like to admit. This was the first time that I had a real "project" - a route with approximately 2,200 feet of climbing, eight miles deep in the High Sierra. A route with sustained climbing and a few cruxes ranging from 5.10 to 5.12 on every pitch. The roller coaster begun from attempting to put up a new route ground up and transitioned into a quest to free climb it. It turned out much more sustained then I wanted, but the incredible setting and quality climbing had me hooked. Encouragement from friends mixed with a little bit of obsession kept me returning no matter if a trip resulted in major progress or doubts of the line going free. Countless hours of battle against a self-created obstacle - so pointless, yet so rewarding.

The Emperor

Luke and I on top on the day we completed the First Ascent (2014) to the top of the wall. This guy has been encouraging me to push myself and believe that I can do things that are semi-delusional. Turned out lying to yourself could work quite well! Blank looking walls have holds and it is possible to gain results from hard work. Mr. Energizer - Luke Stefurak my hat is off and the only regret I have is not climbing the FFA together. Wish I could do it with every person that has helped me in this quest. First team free with the direct finish and every harder variation is a possibility for the future though! I don't think my light version of the Emperor would be enough for you anyway, you are too strong to be challenged by it!

Brian Knowles following the traverse on pitch 9 (2014) - "It is too blank to free climb!" We climbed five pitches (6--10th) in two days of hard work. Sent completely free 1/5 during those days. Two seemed impossible and one seemed like a hard 5.12.

Cristiano Pereira and I on top after climbing Ronin - Samurai Warrior. We climbed on The Emperor and the Sensei during the 5 days we spent at Charlotte Creek camp that week.

Caitlin Taylor following the traverse on pitch nine. We started and finished the route together. Watching her gain skills, maturing and growing as a climber is quite awesome. Even more awesome then me climbing this piece of rock. She went from single pitch sport, to doing 1,000 ft first ascents with me last year. In 2015 she helped me to free the Emperor. Even though I am sure she has gained many positive memories, learned a lot and seen even more, I still feel like I owe her a giant THANKS for helping me in my at times selfish plans. 

Pavel Burov enjoying the day on the wall. Similar story to the weekend with Brian. Full day on the wall and two new pitches. We knew one would go free. On my second attempt to top rope it I fell ONLY two times! :)

Don't know why I could not find photos of Daniel Jeffcoach on the wall but he was a vital part of the early stages of the FA. He is a very encouraging friend, a mentor who taught me to drill and invited me on our first real backcountry FA - The Siege on the Fortress in Castle Rocks. Can't say enough good about this guy, he is awesome to talk and to climb with!  

ENTERTAINING STORY: when I was climbing with THE Jim Donini in CO, I took an earlier flight back to CA. I arrived at 8pm. Why? Because I got in my car and drove straight to Kings Canyon.  I got to the trailhead after 1 am, woke up at 6 am, hiked in the 8 miles to the base of the wall so I could rope solo on my fixed lines. I worked out sequences, added a few bolts and cleaned a few cracks. That day I found a new variation to pitch four, which later allowed it to go free. It was a tiny step to free climbing the 17 pitch route, that was not even complete to the top at that point. Even though hiking out, driving home and having to be at work the next day f***ing sucked, I was damn happy with my decision to spent the day on the wall. Now that I think about it, I can't believe I was so driven and hooked on this thing...

When Alaina Robertson and I went up the route a week prior the free ascent, she encouraged me to work out the moves on the 9th pitch till I got them to work. It was too blank and I never got anything to work there no matter how hard I tried during the previous outings. Only Luke made those moves go while following the pitch in 2014. "I will belay you till you get them," she said, "this does not look as bad as the stuff you have climbed lower on the route." I don't know if I trusted that it was easier or was tired of flailing, but I figured the moves and sent the pitch from the belay that day. Turned out it was the last big hurdle and the 14th pitch was not as blank as I remembered it. Thank you for your patience Alaina!

Richard Shore leading the 11b variation to pitch eight. First day on the route in 2015. An ass whooping for me. Hopefully Richard liked climbing the first twelve. Even though we did the Nose in a day together and have climbed in Patagonia, we decided bailing after the first twelve would be much more fun then continue to the summit in the dark. Happy about decision and chomping on instant mashed potatoes back in camp. 

 This journey, significance of which I can't articulate with words, was a giant test to my patience. A mixed bag of challenges, emotions and little memories I won't forget. It was about the joy of hiking up a beautiful canyon and challenges of bringing up the big loads of gear. Finding the next stance to drill and taking a 40 ft fall when my foot slipped from the stance. The fun of figuring out that a particular move will go free with a subtle shift of my body and core tension. Twisting ankles on the approach. Watching the hammer bounce to the base after Daniel dropped it as he tried to drill the first bolt from a heinous stance. Taking over four hours to lead a single pitch. Solving mystery of route finding and rehearsing the moves on top rope. Watching the beautiful sunsets and drinking instant coffee to jump start our day at five in the morning. Connecting with other outdoor enthusiasts and lonely rope soloing up fixed ropes. There was some of everything - surprises, happiness, fear, embarrassment, sleepless nights, frustrations, injuries and many learned lessons. It was about taking it all in and feeling alive. In the end, this experience is an opportunity to admit that there is a lot to be proud and embarrassed about when you pick a real challenge. Personal journey I had a pleasure to share with multiple people whose presence and help is much appreciated and never will be forgotten. In particular, my friend Caitlin was there for the first day I started up the route. Neither of us thought the first pitch was easier then 5.12 crimps, by the end of the season she went out with me and I free climbed the first eight pitches. After several months off, I went out to the wall on four consecutive weekends and figured out a way to free climb the 9th pitch. On the last of these Caitlin volunteered to support me in my attempt to free the line. It was quite impressive to see someone gain so much competence in under a year. Going from single pitch sport climbing to being able to follow a route no shorter then the Regular NW. Face of Half Dome. 

Bubbs Creek is an awesome spot

Charlotte Dome and Bubbs Creek Wall 

Mama bear

Pitch five is a pretty cool layback. Not too long, but pumpy, fun and has a deadpoint move to a giant chicken head in the end :)

The day produced a bag of surprises. After figuring out a way to free the 9th pitch a week earlier I fell trying it again. I fell again and again. After almost sticking the move, I fell again, and again. I was getting frustrated. Over a 1,000 ft off the ground my patience was on the edge. For me, the move involves no hard crimping and is all about balance, so getting pissed was not gonna help my cause. I lowered to the belay again, tried a slightly different sequence and moved on to much better holds. Part of me was psyched, but there was another tricky 5.10+/5.11- crux in the end of the pitch that could have been a heartbreaking to blow. I took my time and passed on to the belay. From there it did not get easier. The next pitch had a difficult move that took me two tries to send. Pitch after that was much easier, but quite exciting because 140 feet of climbing are protected by a total of five bolts, one of which is right above the belay. After the eleventh I took in some of the last food I brought and tried to regain the momentum. The previous week had several thunderstorms which resulted in significant seeping on pitches twelve through fourteen. At first I did not think it would be doable to free them, but they turned out to be dry enough to continue trying. After barely sticking the 5.11 mantel on pitch twelve, getting scared as hell climbing a moist groove with no good holds and a little plant crimp breaking - which would result in at least a 35 footer - I stuck the tricky layback on the thirteenth.

Hiking in - not the best weather

One of the days on the route in 2014

Caitlin on the Groove

I want to go to sleep, can we please be done with the hard climbing?!

Heavenly views from the route

Time of the day was running out and I still had to add two bolts, one on the thirteenth and one on the fourteenth. Fourteenth was the big question mark in my head. A year prior I made a few rivet holes and aided it on hooks. On the first ascent, in the end of the day it seemed too blank to free climb. Even though Luke said he free climbed it while following, that was no guarantee that the pitch would go for me, Luke is a much stronger climber. But to my surprise after placing the bolt and trying the moves they did not seem that tricky. I lowered back down and sent the pitch as the sun went below the horizon. I could not believe that the madness we started a year prior was almost complete. Before Caitlin got to the belay a few tears of joy came down my face. We climbed the remaining five hundred feet of easier terrain in the dark and she even shared a few bars with me on the summit. The day was a good finish to one of my battles on the Bubbs Creek Wall. I like the climb so much that I will make sure to climb it again. Maybe find a direct finish to the upper pitches? Maybe improve my skills and sent the harder variation to pitch - I took the 5.11B variation on the day of the free ascent. Linking up different routes in a day? Climbing the Beckey? Sky is the limit, but I will make sure to take advantage of a small break from this wall! 

Fun climbing on pitch 10 - the double dike. Brian Knowles stemming and pinching. 

After I finally sent the 9th pitch, week prior to the attempt to free the whole route.

PITCH 14 GOES! So does the Emperor! YAY! 500 feet of climbing in the dark later we are on the summit!

Topo - I will make a MP page soon and will post one with better quality. In the mean time, anyone can ask me for one and I will be glad to sent you a pdf.

To conclude the report, I would like to mention that this experience, even though very satisfying as a personal accomplishment, will not be as pleasing if other people will find the route to be shit. I did my best to clean the loose rock, equip the belays with good hardware and even placed rap rings for most of the pitches, all the way to the 13th pitch. It is possible to rap most of the route with two 60 M ropes, or even with a single 60 if you are ok with leaving several carabiners and rapping off single bolts. Pitches that were onsighted on lead are left with the same number of bolts as were placed on the FA, but those that I rehearsed on top rope after aiding, I made sure to equip with a safe number of bolts to suit a climber trying to onsight the pitch. It is not a scary route, but could be quite exciting in spots, which should not scare anyone off - guy that constantly falls off v4 boulder problems in the gym could do it! The ratings are my best guess. I did my best to honestly rate the pitches and asked my partners who have climbed them to give their honest opinion so there is some sort of a consensus. I will make sure to update the topo if I have more feedback. The ratings can be adjusted if people feel something in particular is easier or harder. I think the quality of climbing on the Bubbs Creek Wall is worth a trip, especially now that there are THREE FREE ROUTES WITHIN 300 feet of each other. Ronin - The Samurai Warrior, The Emperor and The Sensei are all grade V 5.12 or 5.11 A0. All are in a spectacular location and could be linked with possibly the best 5.8 in the Sierra Nevada, the South Face of Charlotte Dome. As many of you know, I get out to the mountains quite often, and would not stick around one place if it sucked. So get out there, have your own adventure and please share the experience. I would love to hear about it!