Saturday, January 18, 2020

The List of First Ascents

Listed are first and first free ascents I have climbed over the years. Some of these may also be variations but the huge majority of the listed routes are firsts or first documented ascents. There are a few routes that I have done the first ascent and the first free ascent of, they are listed twice. 


2012

1) Fortress - The Siege (IV 5.10c A0 1,000 ft) w/Daniel Jeffcoach and Tom Ruddy

2013
1) 2  Wells peak - Krampus Crawl (IV 5.10a 1,200 ft)# w/ Michelle Peot

2) 3 Laurel Mountain - SE rib (III 5.6 solo)

3) 4 Mt. Hood - The Ravine (III m4 wi3 400 ft) w/Anastasia

2014 

1) 5 Bubbs creek wall - FA of the Emperor (V 5.12a 17 pitches 2200 ft) w/Luke Stefurak (final push. also Caitlin Taylor, Daniel Jeffcoach, Brian Knowles, Pavel Burov)


2) 6 Flatiron Butte - Parasitic Nematode (IV 5.10+ 1,200 ft 5 pitches before the ridge) w/ Caitlin Taylor
3) 7 Flatiron Butte - Brutus of Wyde Memorial route (V 5.11a 1,500 ft 12 pitches) w/ Caitlin Taylor

4) 8 Castle Dome - SE ArĂȘte (IV 5.10 1,100 ft 9 pitches) w/ Caitlin Taylor



5) 9 Santa Cruz Dome - Usually it's sunny (III + 5.10c 800 ft 6 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach
6) 10 Lower Tokopah Dome - Boardwalk Chimney (III 5.8 540 ft 3 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach


7) 11 Lower Tokopah Dome - Tokopah Reality (IV- 5.11a 650 ft 5 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach
8) 12 Lower Tokopah Dome - Beauty and the Beast (III 5.11a 600 ft 5 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach


9) 13 The Sphinx - Cotton Mouth Khafra (IV 5.11a 1,800 ft 12 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach

2015
1) 14 Bubbs creek wall - FA/FFA of the Emperor (V 5.12a 17 pitches 2200 ft) w/ Caitlin Taylor



2) 15 CRS - FFA of the east face direct (III+ 5.11B 500 ft 5 pitches) w/ Maxim Belyakov


3) 16 Lower Tokopah Dome - Mango Lassi Lulz Machine (III 5.10+ 600 ft 4 pitches) w/ Adam Burch



5) 17 Ericsson Crag # 3 - (IV 5.10 1,500 ft ) w/ Maxim Belyakov


6) 18 The Prism - Monkeys in the Clouds IV 5.10 1,300 ft (5.7 R X) w/ Luke Stefurak (purple)


7) 19 Angel wings - The Golden Pillar - Killing In The Name Of (V 5.11 1,700 ft - 15 pitches) w/Adam Ferro and first attempt with Luke Stefurak (got up 1/2 way up the wall) (left Red Line) 


8) 20 Cherubum Dome - Dark Angels Have More Fun (IV 5.9+ R) 1,800 ft w/ Adam Ferro
9) 21 Cherubim Dome - What Dreams May Come (IV 5.10 R - 1,550 ft) w/Brian Prince


10) 22 The Serpent's Tooth - The Wild West Crack (IV 5.11+ 700 ft)w/Brian Prince


11) 23 Hamilton Dome - Hamlet Buttress 1,700 ft (IV 5.9+ 1,800 ft) w/Brian Prince (right line)
12) 24 Hamilton Dome - The Subliminal Verses (IV 5.10- 1,350 ft w/ 400 ft of 2nd-4th class to the top) w/Brian Prince (left line)


13) 25 Rowell Tower - Full Nelson (IV 5.10+ R) w/Brian Prince


14) 26 The Globe - Standing Ovation (III 5.10- 950 ft) w/Brian Prince


15) 27 Eagle Scout Creek Dome - Direct West Face (IV 800 ft 5.11 C1) w/Brian Prince


16) 28 Darth Vador Tower - Knob Wars (III 5.10- R - 1,000) w/ Brian Prince


4) 29 Panther Peak - Krymptonite (III 5.11b/c 650 ft - 5 pitches) w/ Adam Shepperd (Red line, the leftmost line)
17) 30 Panther peak-Rack em up reed variation III 5.10 w/Daniel Jeffcoach and Alaina Robertson (Blue line in the middle)

18) 31 Unicorn - North Buttress 5.10a FFA? w/ Julia 

2016
1) 32 Moro rock - FFA modern guilt IV 5.12 1,000 w/ Brian Prince (Route 13)
2) 33 Moro rock - Meteora 5.10 C1 1,000 w/Daniel Jeffcoach (red line)

3) 34 North sentinel - FML crack IV 5.11 C1 750 w/Daniel Jeffcoach, Brandon Thau, Daniel Jeffcoach ** (3)
4) 35 North sentinel - Eddie's Crack 250 w/Brian Prince, Caitlin and Chaz *** (1)
5) 36 North sentinel - Eddie's Chimney *** 700 w/Brian Prince, Caitlin and Chaz  (2)
6) 37 North sentinel - Chasing the wind (finished the last 1/3 of the route Daniel and Adam climbed) 850 w/ Caitlin Taylor *** (4)


7) 38 Happy Dome - Men in Heat IV 5.8R 1,800 w/Daniel Jeffcoach

8) 39 Dark Tower - Roland's Journey 1000 ft IV 5.8-9 1,000 w/ Brian Prince and Alaina Robertson *

9) 40 Gambler's Special - Ghost Riders in the Sky IV - (V 5.10) 1,600 ft+400ft up to 5.7solo w/ Alaina Robertson *** (Line #1)
12) 41 Gambler's Special - Wait and Bleed (IV 5.10-) 1,600 w/ Shaun Reed (Line #2)


11) 42 Cleaver - The Butcher FFA (IV 5.12) 850ft w/Shaun Reed***

13) 43 Clarence King - Direct NW Face (V 5.11) 2000 FT w/Chaz **

14) 44 Gardnier - Golden Bear Tower - Polemonium IV 5.10- 1,500 w/Chaz L *** (Red line #1)
15) 45 Gardnier - Vermillion pt 1. (5.11- R X) 1,300 * w/ Chaz L (Red line #2)

*this Mount Whitney overlay is semi inaccurate and very oversimplified. 
10) 46 Mt. Whitney - Inyo Face (V 5.11a ) 2,200ft w/ Austin Siadak (red line #4)
16) 47 Whitney - Uncertainty Principle (V 5.11, 5.10R) 2,200 w/ Adam Ferro ** (Red Line #5)
20) 48 Mt. Whitney - Happy to Be Here (V 5.11- R) 2000 ft w/ Brian Prince (negative stars lol) ( red line 8)


17) 49 Mt. Hitchcock - Starlight Dihedral (IV-V 5.11 5.7RX) - 1,600 w/ Adam Ferro (FA of the buttress not the wall. The long wall has multiple buttresses at least three of which have been climbed) ***

18) 50 Arctic Lake Wall - TMI (Too much fun) (III 5.10-) 550 ft w/ Adam Ferro ***


19) 51 Hitchcock - Welcome to Krackizstan (IV-V 5.11-) 1600ft w/ Adam Ferro ***



21) 52 Arctic Lake Wall - Arctic Beast (III 5.11+) 700 ft w/ Brian Prince ***


22) 53  Watsi Wall (2200 ft) via Lost World (VI 5.11+ A3 R) 2700 ft w/ Brian Prince and Daniel Jeffcoach **

23) 54 Mt. Watkins - Teabag Wisdom (IV 5.11-) 1350 ft w/ Chris Kolpp ***
24) 55 The Harding Tower - New Life (IV 5.10) 2000 ft w/ Mark Westman *
2017
1) 56 Moro Rock - Meteora IV 5.11+ 1200ft w/Brian Prince 


2. 57 Grand Sentinel - NE buttress III 5.10 800ft w/Chaz
3. 58 The Fin - East Face - Cutting Edge III 5.9 1000ft w/Daniel Jeffcoach
4. 59 The Fin - East Face - Super Totally Trad IV 5.11a 1000ft w/Jeremy Ross


5. 60 The Fin - West Face - Tainted Love IV 5.11- w/ Chaz

6. 61 Charlotte Dome - The Dance of Dragons IV 5.10+ w/ Jeremy Ross


7. 62 North Cotter - Vertical Illusiin III-IV 5.9+ w/Chaz Langlier


8. 63 Albatross - Direct Southeast face IV 5.10+ w/Brian Prince and Adam Ferro
9. 64 Xanadu - Arctic Knight NW face IV 5.11+ w/Brian Prince and Adam Ferro

10. 65 Mt. Watkins - Capt Hook VI C4 5.10+ (takes the left prow)

11. 66 Harding Tower - Semper Farscismus IV 5.11b w Chris Koppl


12. 67 Wheeler Crest w/Richard Shore
13. 68 Wheeler Crest w/Richard Shore


14. 69 Hamilton Dome - Ophelia III 1,300'5.9 w/ Chaz Langlier
15. 70 Beau te Cache Dome  (FA) - Fantomas III 5.9 1,100' w/Chaz Langlier 


16. 71 Wheeler crest w/Richard Shore And Brian Prince


17. 72 Wheeler crest w/Richard Shore, Brandon Thau, Daniel Jeffcoach and Brian Prince 


18. 73 Wheeler crest

2018
1. 74 Olancha - tumbleweed III 5.10+ w/Richard Shore and Chris Koppl
2. 75 Santa Cruz Dome - Knotfest III 5.11- w/Maxim Belyakov


3. 76 Lone Pine Peak - FFA of Pathways through to space V 5.11a


4. 77 Lone Pine Peak - FA of Tomahawk Arete IV-V 5.11 w/Chaz


5. 78 Lone Pine Peak - FFA of Streets of the Mountains IV-V 5.10+
6. 79 The Cleaver - Dot the Ts III 5.10+ or 5.11- w Shaun Reed


7. 80 Bubbs Creek Wall - Panda Express V 5.11 A1 w/Daniel Jeffcoach


8. 81 Wild Iris Dome  III 5.10 700 FT w/Chaz


9. 82 Mount Ericsson 1,600 ft 5.10 RX w/Chaz


10. 83 Ericsson Crag #3 - King of the North 1,400 5.11a w/Chaz

11. 84 The Cleaver - Dreamliner III-IV 5.11b/c with Shaun Reed July 7th 800 ft

12. 85 Alta Crags III 5.9 Daniel and Adam Shepperd July 11th 700 ft


13. 86 Mt. LeConte - Space Force 1000 FT 5.11b with Roger Putnam 2018 


14. 87 Stewart - The Antichrist Dihedral August 2018 with Jake Smith 1,600 ft


15. 88 The Shield - Lightning Bolt Cracks August 2018 with Jake Smith 1000ft


16. 89 The Red Rocket - Cool Beans III 5.12b August 2018 with Jake Smith 800ft


17. 90 Panther Peak - Ailurophobia III 5.11 A0 700ft w/ Daniel Jeffcoach (Orange)


18. 91 Eaglette Pinnacle - Sweet Corn and Steak III 5.10a 750 ft


19. 92 Periscope/Wallace Stegner spire - Sweet Corn and Steak IV 5.10 1,400 ft

20. 93 Long Dong Wall - Sick Gnarski Pillar IV 5.11a 1,800.


21. 94 Third Recess Peak - Direct NE buttress IV 5.10d September 2018 1500 ft with Maxim belyakov

22) 95 Disappointment peak - West Chimney IV 5.10a with Cam Burns Sept 2018


23) 96 Langille - Three Quarters of a Man IV 5.11a pg13 w/ Brian prince September 2018

2019
1. 97 Mochito (Patagonia) - Mosca Para Mujer 5.8 A3 1,000' with Chris Koppl

2. 98 Hot tuna tower IV 5.12 a0 1,100 w/Brian Prince, Richard Shore and Brandon Thau

3. 99 Charlotte dome (October 2016)- Diary of a Crimpy Kid 5.10a 1,800'. W/Meike (Red)





4. 100 Peak 3,986 M - Raiders of The Lost Dike IV 5 11a 1,800 w. Jeremy Ross and Sully


5. 101 Lone Pine peak - The Surfboard IV 5.11c W/Chris Koppl



6. 102 North Dome - Lucid Dream IV 5.11 A2 Daniel Jeffcoach (RED)
7. 103 North Dome - Great White North IV-V 5 11+ 1,600ft with Brian Prince and Daniel Jeffcoach (ORANGE)


8. 104 Sugarloaf - Sugar Mamma IV 5.11a 1,600ft with Chris Koppl


9. 105 Alexandra's Arete 1,200 5.11B (above Marion Lake  w/ Brian Prince July)


10. 106 Helen's Face - The Fourth Finger 5.10d 1,000' w/ Brian Prince July 2019


11. 107 Hershey Kiss - Sugaree (5.11c 1,000) w/ Brian Prince and Chaz Langlier, July 2019

12. 108 Watchtower - Big Time IV 5.12a 1,000' w/ Brian Prince  August


13. 109 Spring Lake Wall - No Fun Allowed IV 5.10d 1,200 with Tad MaCrae and Eliot B. August ORANGE LINE
14. 110 Spring Lake Wall - FFA of The One That Got Away IV 5.11B 1,500' with Eliot B. August RED LINE

15. 111 Bunnell Point - The Salad Tossing Dike (IV-V 5.11a) 2,550' w/ Christian Black and Chris Koppl September 2019


16. 112 Mount Conness - Pound a Pin, Drink a Cobra IV 5.11d 1,000' with Chris Koppl, July 2019 


17. 113 Moro Rock - Meteora original line FFA IV 5.12B with Brian Prince and Chris Koppl May (big red line)


18. 114 Half Dome - The Xue Way (VI 5.11d-5.12a A0)




19. 115 Silver Turret - Direct North Buttress IV 5.11a R 1,400’
20. 116 El Commandante - Direct West Face III 5.10d R 600’

2020

1) 117 Wheeler crest with Richard Shore. 800' 5.11a


2) 118 Windy Cliff in Kings Canyon with Brian Prince, Daniel Jeffcoach and Adam Shepperd. 5.11a 1600' (?)












3) 119 Locke Rock - Locked and Loaded with Brandon Thau and Brian Prince.








4) 120 Milestone Mountain 13,641’ - Western Divine 750 5.10c with Chaz Langlier





5)  121 Trailblazer Wall 13,228 - Fear Inoculum 800 5.10c with Chaz Langlier



6) 122 Thunder Mountain 13,588 - Thunder Thighs 1000 5.7 with Tad McCrea

7) 123 Table Mountain 13,632’  - Pass the Courvoisier (North Pillar) 1000 5.10  with Tad McCrea


8) 124 Mount Corcoran South Pillar - For the Love of Men 1,500 5.11 with Derek Field and Connor Chilcott. 





9) 125 Mount Langille - The Prodigy 3,000 5.11b with Shaun Reed
10) 126 Cyclorama Wall 12,882 - FFA of the Rowell/Clevenger/Fiddler route - Extraterrestrial Vortex 5.12a with Shaun Reed






Langille


Cyclorama





11) 127 Bubbs Creek Wall - First Free Ascent of Panda Express with Christian Black 2,000 5.11B 








12) 128 Delphina Tower - Dee-Bees Rib Direct 1,000 5.10c
No pics. Phone RIP

13) Mount Whitney - Hairline C2+ 5.10d (First winter ascent) with Chris Koppl












14) 129 El Comandante Turret - The Honey Badger Experience 2,000 5.11c with Daniel Jeffcoach






15) 130 Thor Peak - Truncated Buttress FFA with Roger Putnam. FA was by William Putnam and Fred Beckey.






16) Ribbon Falls Amphitheater - Rusalka 1000 A3+ with Chris Koppl (work in progress)


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  2. Impressive resume of long backcountry first ascents. IMHO...More impressive than a rap bolted 15b. Thank you for inspiring me to complete some of your classic moderates and seek out other backcountry objectives in the Sierra! Cheers to your work both professionally and recreationally!

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