Wednesday, September 14, 2016

Widow's Tears (V WI5) - video

Finally, had some free time to put together the footage from the climb of the Widow's Tears (V WI 5) in Yosemite National Park. Skipped the first 400 feet of lower angle climbing, but included the bulk of the sustained ice. Feel very lucky to get on this climb in ok conditions, on January 1st, 2016. Was so excited about it that I felt comfortable to free solo it, onsight. Was a great way to start the year, in an amazing place..

I don't know if there are many people who enjoy watching first person videos of rock climbing, ice climbing, or whatever, I personally find them boring. But this route is a fairly iconic climb, that not too many people get to climb. Lots of hype around it all over the place, so maybe someone cares to see it? In addition, this video is very original because unlike 99% of the ice climbing youtube videos, there is no top rope from above! :) It was interesting for me personally to watch it, because it was a pretty cool experience for me haha. In any case, whoever wants to, watch it and enjoy the music, or not. Whatever you do, don't whine about the music...
For those interested in what the route was like, here is a good

Interview:  http://www.accidentalproductions.net/rants-raves-vitaliy-musiyenko/

Good overview of the route:   https://www.mountainproject.com/v/chasing-ice-in-the-valley/111504201



Media Spray: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16a/newswire-recent-activity-on-big-yosemite-ice-route
http://www.climbing.com/news/famed-widows-tears-ice-climb-soloed/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cm6kPslOA18
http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/epic-ascent-of-yosemite-s-ephemeral-widow-s-tears
http://www.californiaalpineguides.com/Widows.html
http://www.mammutathleteteam.com/2013/01/widows-tears_21.html

Thursday, September 1, 2016

A Look Within

Living allows us an opportunity for growth through acquisition of wisdom, exploration of our physical limits, spiritual growth and exertion of our creative side. Mountain-climbing is a fascinating activity, or a lifestyle, because it is an exercise for all four. The freedom to gaze deep within the soul to face fears, insecurities, but also reveal strengths. How big of a fear can I face? How long of a face to face standoff am I capable of with the ultimate fear? The experiences I personally learned from the most were the ones where I took on challenges that seemed way above my personal limit. Close to the physical and the mental limit. Ones I had to be creative to come up with, ones I had to rise above my ego and admit to myself that there is a chance to fail on an objective of simply putting the time I had into trying. It is hard to reveal the motivations for these as there are too many subconscious factors that play a role, yet without a doubt they all were ideas that I had on my mind and could not escape from. I did not have to push myself towards them, I was pulled in, captivated by the uncertainty and an opportunity. Pulled up to the next level of personal growth, whatever that means. It is hard for an individual to take on challenges like these often. Not only because it would be unhealthy for our mental state, as they require a lot of energy, along with a great dose of ignorance, but because our creativity has to work hard to come up with such ideas. Ideas that push us to take the path untraveled, ignoring the easy way, ignoring the acquired knowledge about what is possible for common men, ignoring the common sense telling me to chill out.  It is not easy, but possible, to wake up the warrior hiding deep within the walls of my fears. It may be later in the season than I would like, my body may be a bit more tired than I would like it to be, but welcome to the real world, there is never the perfect time - I can always be better, more rested, more fit, but never perfect, I don't have to be. I have to be strong, I have to be smart, I have to be present and face the enemy within. It shouldn't be easy, it won't take a short time, I wouldn't want it to. The goal is to push the body close to the limit, to meditate in open spaces, to exercise the character, to look within in order to rise above of what's possible, be who I am supposed to be - a warrior. Get to the point where I can't take it no more, where it is enough and maybe too much, when I run out of energy, then I will find out how much do I really want it. How much do I have in the hidden tank? How much do I really, REALLY want it?! In the world where blog talk is cheap, the hashtags don't matter, the present is real and the decisions are vital, will the stars align with external factors I can't control? Whatever the answer may be, I will learn a lesson and come out a changed man. Alive.

                                                                                      TIME TO RAGE