tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53706800564371154252024-02-22T02:31:36.809-08:00Sending The Gnar! :)This blog is about sharing passion for climbing, photography and writing. VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.comBlogger110125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-83560106447208730802021-03-18T18:39:00.003-07:002021-03-21T09:48:44.361-07:00Chasing the Horsetail Fall: Learned Lessons and Tips<p><i><b>Not everyone has time for non-essential reading. Time is money and I do not want to waste yours. :) </b></i><i><b>You are welcome to skip over the paragraphs below to simply read the tips and see many of my favorite images which were taken over several days of photographing the Horsetail Fall in February 2021. If your question wasn't answered in the reading below, please don't ask about specific locations, some of those were left out for a reason. I do not want to share certain spots because things are crowded already and people who care, can do their own scoping adventure-outings. Even in summer! Not everything has to be spoon-fed, though I feel like these tips share enough useful info to set one up for sending the proj. </b></i></p><p><i></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qBShIclbsdo/YFPyJlxakLI/AAAAAAAA4m8/QI3qAzMLEUUExosdC860sX84ykn3ycKGQCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1832.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qBShIclbsdo/YFPyJlxakLI/AAAAAAAA4m8/QI3qAzMLEUUExosdC860sX84ykn3ycKGQCPcBGAsYHg/w427-h640/DSC_1832.jpg" width="427" /></a></i></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-style: italic; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cLdIsA8bIME/YFP3ttS0unI/AAAAAAAA4nk/1Optanb0B-0-3qVawU_XjNXCCXp5K3LFgCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1662.jpg" style="font-style: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cLdIsA8bIME/YFP3ttS0unI/AAAAAAAA4nk/1Optanb0B-0-3qVawU_XjNXCCXp5K3LFgCPcBGAsYHg/w428-h640/DSC_1662.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-style: italic; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">The sight of Horsetail Fall glowing in the last rays of the setting sun is a magical moment to witness. With the explosion of proof captured by photographers in recent years, the number of people attempting to see and photograph the rare, beautiful moment has led to increased popularity and a whole army of people attempting to capture their own version of an image similar to the world-famous original. The thin lava-like ribbon of Horsetail Fall was first captured by Galen Rowell, a prolific climber, and photographer. His creative nature led to many first ascents in the Greater Ranges as well as in his home, the Sierra Nevada. As creative in photography as in climbing, he became well-known in the mainstream media through many spectacular images from steep walls and sweeping landscapes which ended up published in National Geographic, and other magazines. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-style: italic; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-style: italic; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c1jSQfzMp_0/YFP2YjzicNI/AAAAAAAA4nY/yFInSDiPBuU5jFrPKSraCXOGgz1CFfsjwCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1786.jpg" style="font-style: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c1jSQfzMp_0/YFP2YjzicNI/AAAAAAAA4nY/yFInSDiPBuU5jFrPKSraCXOGgz1CFfsjwCPcBGAsYHg/w428-h640/DSC_1786.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u23cAuEtyzU/YFP5bJAgNXI/AAAAAAAA4n4/u6zUsCleAeEBrhS4NOCg3UDdShqJfZgVACPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1683.jpg" style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u23cAuEtyzU/YFP5bJAgNXI/AAAAAAAA4n4/u6zUsCleAeEBrhS4NOCg3UDdShqJfZgVACPcBGAsYHg/w428-h640/DSC_1683.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><p></p><p>As I quickly soloed the moderate rock climbs on Manure Pile Buttress, at the base of El Cap's Southeast Face - home of the Horsetail Fall - I pondered about the first time Galen noticed this rare phenomenon. Was he also soloing at Manure Pile at the end of his climbing day? Was he walking along the south shore of Merced River and became a random witness? Did he see something in Ansel Adams' portfolio that tipped him off? Did he do some sort of complicated calculation that helped him figure when the light will line up just right? Not sure. The answer is likely easy to find in one of the popular search engines, only a few clicks away, however, the mystery added to the allure of the event, and I was interested to photograph it over multiple day-trips which I made on my days off. Because I work as a nurse, I usually do about one to two days on and get as many, or more days off. Three 12-hour shifts allow me to be full-time. On a typical trip, I would wake up a 5AM, drink strong coffee, drive to Yosemite, and rope solo (minitrax) 10-16 pitches of hard climbing. If I had more time to kill, I would drive to the Manure Pile for some free soloing on multi-pitch 5.6-5.8s there, or go running, which allowed me a lot of time to think. </p><p>The first time I photographed the Horetail was early February, prior to dates when the 'experts' predicted the waterfall to be "in," as an ice climber would say. For a waterfall to be "in" for an ice climber, it would have to be frozen enough to be climbable and accept "safe" gear placements, whatever that may mean. As much as I find ice climbing safe, the thought of climbing on frozen water is still somewhat ridiculous. So the experts didn't think the photos would be great that early. What does that mean in a beautiful Yosemite landscape? Beauty can be found there even without a glowing waterfall, on a cloudy day, a calming walk in the close to an empty park in winter feels special. Surely is a different experience compared to walking to a busy Emergency Department in Oakland and watching people urinating in front of the Hospital. So in the worst case, I wanted to scope the location for the shot. In fact, I wanted to scope several locations to take photos of Horestail Fall and go to the one I like the most on the day when the internet experts predict the waterfall to be in its best conditions - around February 21st.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZAedm-D5vn4/YFP5bEvUYRI/AAAAAAAA4n4/rlcdWpnOdGAOHqFI60SdBrn1otkx3siQQCPcBGAsYHg/s4732/DSC_1664.jpg" style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4732" data-original-width="3380" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZAedm-D5vn4/YFP5bEvUYRI/AAAAAAAA4n4/rlcdWpnOdGAOHqFI60SdBrn1otkx3siQQCPcBGAsYHg/w458-h640/DSC_1664.jpg" width="458" /></a></div><p></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BjK8PIZhxoQ/YFP1cRbD42I/AAAAAAAA4nI/uA86BdwPX-UA9Sw4aDTUwxJLTNheX6F9QCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1848.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3268" data-original-width="4896" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BjK8PIZhxoQ/YFP1cRbD42I/AAAAAAAA4nI/uA86BdwPX-UA9Sw4aDTUwxJLTNheX6F9QCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h428/DSC_1848.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">To my surprise, I was very happy with the results and the photos from my first attempt were good enough for a local TV channel to feature them in a segment they released promoting the event. The event didn't need much promotion, on the weekend of 21st, I went for a 6.5 mile run around Yosemite after climbing prior and witnessed a crowd of about a thousand people settled in their lawn chairs or in the process of setting up their tripods on the north side of Merced River. As much as I don't like crowded places, I found something beautiful in knowing all these people made long drives, or even international flights to see a free magic show by mother nature, and I was also aware that I am one of the tourons as well, even if I was planning to photograph from an undisclosed location 500 feet above the valley floor. These people I saw could have been in front of their TVs, in the comfort of their home, but they chose to be hundreds of miles away, in a cold place, without any guarantee that the waterfall will actually glow - there were plenty of clouds on the horizon which could have ruined the experience for everyone. I realistically estimated the chances of seeing the glowing waterfall as slim to none. I was also unsure if getting a photo of this phenomenon was very creative, as so many have done so in the past. Earlier in the day, I ran into Ron Kauk, a living legend in the Yosemite climbing scene, who also was enjoying his time rope soloing. Maybe not as sexy as free soloing the sick gnar, but I feel like it allows us moving meditation without a possibility of death as a consequence. We started to chat and at some point, I brought up my conundrum, "are we simply trying to create a trophy shot, similar to a mountain climber bagging a trophy peak, as the angles of the shot, the timing, the required focal length, and even the aperture and several locations were outlined online? Just like the route of ascent to a trophy 8,000-meter peak is hung with ropes, set by guides, and the adventure of reaching the summit is tainted by an unlimited amount of available information about all the hurdles one may experience." </span></div><p>As much time as I had to think about the topic and as eight attempts to photograph the waterfall went by, I found an answer which I personally could accept. An individual answer which may be different for each person, or maybe more similar than we may think, as humans are probably more similar than they are different? I don't know, but visiting crowded tourist cities like Paris, Bangkok, Madrid or Barcelona, to see the Louvre, Sagrada Familia, structures designed by Gaudi, or to stand in rain for two hours outside of Versailles to see it for yourself didn't make the experience less special. Special places, trophy peaks, and popular photos are cool because they are worth seeing, pushing yourself for, or going through the process of trying to figure out how to capture them yourself. In the past, such feats were left to professional photographers and climbers, in 2021, normal working people are able to go on their own little adventures that keep us somewhat sane with our busy schedules and the hustle and bustle of everyday life. When I headed up the climb while talking to Ron, earlier that day, he simply said "Don't overgrip." Now that I think about the to-the-point advice, I find it applicable to the conundrum I had. Overthinking things we enjoy for the simple pleasure of focusing on the beauty around<span> us can be as destructive as lactic acid building up in our forearms as we overgrip on small holds of a challenging rock climb. Is that what Ron was trying to say? </span></p><p>If you want to see what I learned about the actual waterfall, or I feel it is important to share with anyone who wants to take a nice photo of the Horsetail Falls in the future here is a list of things I personally find important:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eCFHLntxYbY/YFP1_S3ezLI/AAAAAAAA4nQ/-oZp3ev63p88R4lcaK5f4H3KldxO3NzcwCPcBGAsYHg/s3794/DSC_1799.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3794" data-original-width="2456" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eCFHLntxYbY/YFP1_S3ezLI/AAAAAAAA4nQ/-oZp3ev63p88R4lcaK5f4H3KldxO3NzcwCPcBGAsYHg/w414-h640/DSC_1799.jpg" width="414" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">1) Best times to photograph the glowing Horsetail Fall is from 10th to 25th of February, or so. Every year, the dates will be slightly different but the </span><span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><b style="background-color: black;">BIG difference I found from photographing it on the 8th of February, over several other days and on the days conditions were predicted to be the best (21-22nd of February), I noticed the ribbon of water illuminated by the rays of setting sun is THINNER, leading to a more defined lava flowing on the weekend when the waterfall is predicted to be 'the best.'</b></span><span style="font-size: large;"> Of course, it makes a lot of sense, the thinner and more defined the flow of the waterfall, the better is the image! Right? The answer depends on your creative interpretation. </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large; text-align: left;">2) </span><b style="font-size: large; text-align: left;">If you are shooting with your phone, even if it is an iPhone12, you will not be able to get a nice zoom of the waterfall. So decide for yourself if you are going to witness the event or to capture it well in order to produce a print you can hang in your home. </b></div><p><span style="font-size: medium;">3) <span style="background-color: black; color: red;"><b>Shoot with AT LEAST a nice mirrorless camera or a DSLR on a tripod. YES, a tripod! Pair it with a 100-200mm lens.</b></span> I personally shot with Nikon D810 and a 150-600mm Tamron monster lens. BUT, if you have a nice lens known to be sharp around that 150-300mm range (on a full-frame camera body), you should be set! Some high-end point and shoots that cost a ton of money have nice zooms and can also produce decent images.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4) Get to your location and <span style="background-color: black; color: red;"><b>BE SET UP one hour before the sunset. In my experience, locations on the SOUTH side of Merced River led to better photos. The usual spot where the most people photograph, near Manure Pile parking lot honestly seems a little too close to see the thin ribbon well.</b></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x2I0qHw5YuE/YFP5bJSFeXI/AAAAAAAA4n4/bZTrE00H1hcXIsZ5bNpqQtFMQiDEyziKQCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1778.jpg" style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x2I0qHw5YuE/YFP5bJSFeXI/AAAAAAAA4n4/bZTrE00H1hcXIsZ5bNpqQtFMQiDEyziKQCPcBGAsYHg/w428-h640/DSC_1778.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Knr8Ryrn0FA/YFP3tqOCpaI/AAAAAAAA4nk/O6K-ytWfIgILl0j97P0nq89-40LtNKf2QCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1670-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Knr8Ryrn0FA/YFP3tqOCpaI/AAAAAAAA4nk/O6K-ytWfIgILl0j97P0nq89-40LtNKf2QCPcBGAsYHg/w428-h640/DSC_1670-2.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">5) <b><span style="background-color: black; color: red;">The setting, clouds and other things (like flying birds in the mix) can make the image more, or less epic.</span></b> Individual's desire to take a slightly different angle of the waterfall can also lead to original angles. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NstAqC_oy_4/YFP2YgvIgRI/AAAAAAAA4nY/lMWLx3jQSRc2lwx42c4eDpw5QW87n35cwCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1759.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NstAqC_oy_4/YFP2YgvIgRI/AAAAAAAA4nY/lMWLx3jQSRc2lwx42c4eDpw5QW87n35cwCPcBGAsYHg/w428-h640/DSC_1759.jpg" width="428" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">6) <span style="color: red;"><b style="background-color: black;">Most people photograph with wider angle view before the waterfall becomes the thin ribbon of beauty and then scramble to change the lens and re-focus, find the right settings on the new lens, as the precious seconds of short event tick away. I and other people I watched around me are guilty of it. On my last day, I picked the lens, aperture/zoom/ISO, focused on the waterfall and kept it simple. Unless you have many days to try it, Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS).</b></span> I apply KISS to climbing and to everything else in life. Aside from my busy schedule...maybe one day? </span></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yj2GvZNRjtY/YFP4peiz_OI/AAAAAAAA4ns/Ev_YFT7ot8oMGSBNuZM_VooXGj7I3CPKQCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1401.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yj2GvZNRjtY/YFP4peiz_OI/AAAAAAAA4ns/Ev_YFT7ot8oMGSBNuZM_VooXGj7I3CPKQCPcBGAsYHg/w428-h640/DSC_1401.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MunVuu07YvU/YFP4pTLahyI/AAAAAAAA4ns/LfK_uHiqkTwP6NH8j7O6K0gBvK4iXshRwCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1393.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3268" data-original-width="4896" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MunVuu07YvU/YFP4pTLahyI/AAAAAAAA4ns/LfK_uHiqkTwP6NH8j7O6K0gBvK4iXshRwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h428/DSC_1393.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">February 8th. Notice the amount of light around the waterfall. On the 21st, only the ribbon of the waterfall was illuminated.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--IrGR0-ldAc/YFP4pZyiKTI/AAAAAAAA4ns/8SOmN_XNjRgGtUy8skh7jetI_AHPaWodgCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1396.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--IrGR0-ldAc/YFP4pZyiKTI/AAAAAAAA4ns/8SOmN_XNjRgGtUy8skh7jetI_AHPaWodgCPcBGAsYHg/w428-h640/DSC_1396.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><p>7) <b><span style="background-color: black; color: red;">For this rare phenomenon to take place A LOT OF STARS HAVE TO ALIGN. It should be clear (not cloudy) on the western horizon, there should be enough precipitation high in the mountains to create a steady snow melt for the waterfall to be fed, and temperatures have to be warm enough for the snow to melt. COLD winter days, cloudy days and low snow years, will likely not allow you to take nice photos. So check the snow pack, check the weather and have a few days off to visit Yosemite in Mid February.</span></b></p></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span style="background-color: white;">8) </span><span style="background-color: black; color: red; font-weight: bold;">Watch for special permits and regulations posted by National Park Service (NPS) on the Yosemite NP web site. </span><span style="background-color: white;">At first, I thought some of the rules are ridiculous, but I realized why they were enforced when I saw the army of people the park was dealing with. February 2021 required a special permit which was reserved from Recreation.gov and worked for a week. Who knows what 2022 will be like, but I can't imagine it to be less strict.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span style="background-color: white;">9) If you can, <b>make your trip on the weekday in order to not fight for parking with a thousand other people</b> and hike up into the woods on the south side of Merced. Maybe up the 4-mile trail or its vicinity. I took a few nice shots there.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span style="background-color: white;">10) The <b>best way to focus in the waterfall is to choose the appropriate exposure, shutter speed, and ISO to work with your composition</b> (I personally set the ISO to about 100-200, though I could have kept it at 64, but chose to set it higher to let in more light in order to create more contrast and make the waterfall pop. I shot at F14ish, which is mid-range for my lens and my shutter speed was quick 1/150-200). Then you want to <b>use the digital</b> <b>zoom, and zoom ALL the way in on an object by the waterfall on your screen, and in full manual focus, adjust the focus wheel so that the object is as sharp as it can be. Somewhere close to infinity. </b>Take a few practice shots, zoom in on them and make sure your image is in perfect focus. Another helpful tip is to figure out at which aperture your lens is the sharpest and calibrate your lens for the sharpest focus prior to your trip. Hint: Youtube it.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span style="background-color: white;">11) Every time you adjust your zoom or aperture, or touch the ring of the lens, make sure you didn't screw up your focus. </span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span style="background-color: white;">12) Shoot in RAW, so that you can bring out all the colors in Lightroom or whatever you use to process images.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span style="background-color: white;">13) Respect people around you, take your trash out, take any trash you find on the ground that doesn't belong to you, and know your limits when it comes to backcountry travel. Don't get yourself into dangerous situations trying to find a nice spot. Bring a headlamp or a flashlight with fresh batteries to get yourself back down to your car. If you are unfamiliar with the location, bring a GPS. The more trouble we create for rangers, the more regulations there will be. </span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span style="background-color: white;">14) Have fun and experiment. Have an adventure, as silly as that may sound. :)</span></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vOxK-GtU5Xk/YFP5bPGByDI/AAAAAAAA4n4/2OuAgXHtSwE3F3E6PeFuqNnuG3ydnl9mACPcBGAsYHg/s4730/DSC_1685-2.jpg" style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4730" data-original-width="3382" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vOxK-GtU5Xk/YFP5bPGByDI/AAAAAAAA4n4/2OuAgXHtSwE3F3E6PeFuqNnuG3ydnl9mACPcBGAsYHg/w458-h640/DSC_1685-2.jpg" width="458" /></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b></b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OtTrW9QVxkg/YFP5bJxDVCI/AAAAAAAA4n4/ELbi16hHTgcJTlzoUf1tM485pixgPPQ0wCPcBGAsYHg/s3794/DSC_1799.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3794" data-original-width="2456" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OtTrW9QVxkg/YFP5bJxDVCI/AAAAAAAA4n4/ELbi16hHTgcJTlzoUf1tM485pixgPPQ0wCPcBGAsYHg/w414-h640/DSC_1799.jpg" width="414" /></a></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5V48dDI7Igs/YFP5bMfBj8I/AAAAAAAA4n4/ovjfWzSLbhQvQunOM2uEHYDOXIZK7-W4wCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1861.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5V48dDI7Igs/YFP5bMfBj8I/AAAAAAAA4n4/ovjfWzSLbhQvQunOM2uEHYDOXIZK7-W4wCPcBGAsYHg/w428-h640/DSC_1861.jpg" width="428" /></a></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MJ_iSvwNZf0/YFP5bKaTlEI/AAAAAAAA4n4/_qwQ2LE3JJc3W1prKkbFTl_I-tNDRWOeACPcBGAsYHg/s4976/DSC_1868.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4976" data-original-width="3215" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MJ_iSvwNZf0/YFP5bKaTlEI/AAAAAAAA4n4/_qwQ2LE3JJc3W1prKkbFTl_I-tNDRWOeACPcBGAsYHg/w414-h640/DSC_1868.jpg" width="414" /></a></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tt-V4eXlNaQ/YFP5bGFOK8I/AAAAAAAA4n4/MW_dsK15avEiQiXyjFlA9oqVWUUr3cJYgCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1861-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tt-V4eXlNaQ/YFP5bGFOK8I/AAAAAAAA4n4/MW_dsK15avEiQiXyjFlA9oqVWUUr3cJYgCPcBGAsYHg/w428-h640/DSC_1861-2.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2oj7INZCrwo/YFP5bNospQI/AAAAAAAA4n4/P7cvIlG8TrY5QV811cypV1Xb_Xjv6Z2iwCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1681.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2oj7INZCrwo/YFP5bNospQI/AAAAAAAA4n4/P7cvIlG8TrY5QV811cypV1Xb_Xjv6Z2iwCPcBGAsYHg/w428-h640/DSC_1681.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ycXaNsKeGx0/YFP5bDWV78I/AAAAAAAA4n4/zWs4Gciyc7MrAfmEVMGctaNWmdIzZJvkQCPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_1673.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4896" data-original-width="3268" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ycXaNsKeGx0/YFP5bDWV78I/AAAAAAAA4n4/zWs4Gciyc7MrAfmEVMGctaNWmdIzZJvkQCPcBGAsYHg/w428-h640/DSC_1673.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">IF YOU MISSED YOUR CHANCE TO PHOTOGRAPH HORSETAIL FALL GET EXCITED FOR MOONBOWS THIS SPRING OR TO RUN THE PDL AND REALLY GO FOR IT, ONLY A MONTH OR SO AWAY! :)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">PS: Moonbows are rainbows that happen on certain spring days with the full moon providing the source of light to create something people expect only on sunny days. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eZ1hHDBGjlg/YFWNutehQlI/AAAAAAAA4oM/bWIe0xYqYcI_uM_IK-gh8EoEqAWOm-0OgCPcBGAsYHg/s4955/DSC05750.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4955" data-original-width="3229" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eZ1hHDBGjlg/YFWNutehQlI/AAAAAAAA4oM/bWIe0xYqYcI_uM_IK-gh8EoEqAWOm-0OgCPcBGAsYHg/w418-h640/DSC05750.jpg" width="418" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KFzNXrPR4ZQ/YFWNupeOEbI/AAAAAAAA4oM/cnJOOXu2HQwD1JXJofHNWD5y1wmbNHeJACPcBGAsYHg/s4898/DSC05707.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KFzNXrPR4ZQ/YFWNupeOEbI/AAAAAAAA4oM/cnJOOXu2HQwD1JXJofHNWD5y1wmbNHeJACPcBGAsYHg/w426-h640/DSC05707.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a3WJe9RfjA4/YFWPLR9GbdI/AAAAAAAA4oY/w2Akzlnm50suZD-Mnx1KFOyqxIXL2tHjQCPcBGAsYHg/s4000/DSC02458.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2836" data-original-width="4000" height="454" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a3WJe9RfjA4/YFWPLR9GbdI/AAAAAAAA4oY/w2Akzlnm50suZD-Mnx1KFOyqxIXL2tHjQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h454/DSC02458.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GRruZ1CI8pM/YFWPLW7cfFI/AAAAAAAA4oY/Q7am9I3hDCUYMO1uJvt6CHvKPTsHuceFgCPcBGAsYHg/s4732/DSC02557.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3380" data-original-width="4732" height="458" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GRruZ1CI8pM/YFWPLW7cfFI/AAAAAAAA4oY/Q7am9I3hDCUYMO1uJvt6CHvKPTsHuceFgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h458/DSC02557.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g1S-VCGTlJo/YFWS8wZNOYI/AAAAAAAA4ow/f_djMkTnvKk-ubZn7e-zqEdrkEtVSSIkACPcBGAsYHg/s1709/IMG_20190621_091827_989.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1709" data-original-width="1367" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g1S-VCGTlJo/YFWS8wZNOYI/AAAAAAAA4ow/f_djMkTnvKk-ubZn7e-zqEdrkEtVSSIkACPcBGAsYHg/w512-h640/IMG_20190621_091827_989.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Pus7XYP7uo/YFWNutb_cbI/AAAAAAAA4oM/0EDuPxd-uSUwBl933NVS7vZ4cHDKyHnnACPcBGAsYHg/s4365/DSC07244-Pano.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3664" data-original-width="4365" height="538" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Pus7XYP7uo/YFWNutb_cbI/AAAAAAAA4oM/0EDuPxd-uSUwBl933NVS7vZ4cHDKyHnnACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h538/DSC07244-Pano.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></b></span><p></p>VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-17659675183312428542020-08-26T14:07:00.001-07:002020-08-26T14:07:26.551-07:00Lightweight Camping Gear I Reccomend<p><span style="font-family: arial;"><span face="" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small;">When preparing for big climbs, I get fairly focused on logistics. Especially when I am planning to solo technical terrain while carrying my camping gear, food, and climbing equipment. Day climbs are easy to prepare for, climbs that can take up to a week, not so much. In recent months I purchased some new gear, tested it, and picked what would perform best for solo ridge traverses or during backpacking trips on which I want to enjoy myself more by carrying less weight in my pack. </span><span face="" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small;">I bought all the equipment I mention here with my own money and am not sponsored by any brands in any way, nor do I get a commission in case anyone purchases anything, so my opinion is free of that kind of bias...</span></span></p><p><span face="" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial; font-size: small;">Recently several friends asked me about the gear I use etc so I put together a quick list of things.</span></p><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">1) Zpacks Nero 38L backpack - 10.7 oz. probably less weight than listed, as I stripped it of anything extra and cut off one of the pockets....For climbing trips I use a Hyperlite Ice Pack, which is comfortable, has everything I need and nothing I don't. Used it for two years now, so it is quite durable. Took it up Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, and a ton of local backcountry trips. I even hauled it a few times. Pretty strong pack and comfortable enough while carrying up to about 50lbs.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">2) Zpacks Solo Quilt 30F 12.6 oz - am very happy with its performance and weight so far. Also, use a 20F Patagonia down bag.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">3) Therm-a-Rest Neoair Uberlite Sleeping Pad 8.8 oz, medium. Light and comfortable! With a Sea to Summit ultralight pillow.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">4) Toaks Titanium 550mL Pot with lid 2.6 oz (very cheap online). </span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">5) Fuhoz BRS 3000 Stove - 0.9 oz (very cheap online). Aside from being cheap, it boils water just as fast as more expensive light stoves. Not as fast a Jetboil, but the weight difference is HUGE. </span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I still use Jetboil Sol from time to time. </span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">MSR Reactor works better than the Jetboil for winter outings/alpinism - situations when you will be relying on melting snow.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">6) Small gas canister</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">7) BD Twilight bivy sack (0.7 lbs). Instead of my usual emergency blanket, I decided to use Twilight bivy because I actually plan to sleep in it and hope this semi breathable sack will prevent my light down quilt from getting too wet (emergency bivy bags do not breath at all). It should also prevent my light pad from getting popped. I will have my pack under the pad as well, to help with protecting the thin inflatable pad.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">For normal camping trips, I use a Black Diamond HiLight tent. Older is lighter, newer is more bomber and is seam sealed.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">8) Small lighter, plastic spoon, lip balm. </span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">9) Food (4 breakfasts, 4 dinners, 4 days worth of snacks). I use one freeze-dried dinner bag and cook the dinners/breakfasts in it for the rest of the trip. Carry all the other dinners/breakfasts in zip lock bags. Breakfast is usually a pack of instant brown sugar oatmeal, a scoop of chocolate protein, nuts, dry blueberries/raisins, a scoop of Nutella, and instant coffee. YUM.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">10) Hydrapack Seeker 3L water bladder with a hose to allow drinking on the go. Gatorade/Powerade bottle for a backup. Nalgene bottle is a heavy beast, so I will not bring it.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">11) Climbing gear - 50m 5mm cord in case I need to abseil. Double length sling instead of a harness, Edelrid micro Jul belay device. A few slings, a few light carabiners. A few leaver nuts. Some cord for rap anchors, if needed. I cut the cord by banging it with a sharp rock and avoid bringing a knife. *rapelling on a 5mm cord, without a harness is not something approved by any organization associated with climbing and is due at your own risk, in a scenario in which you REALLY HAVE to.*</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">12) Five Ten guide tennies approach shoes. Scramble WELL.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">13) Black Diamond Spot Lite headlamp - light and pretty good!</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">14) NF sun hoodie, Patagonia Houdini light shell, Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer Hoody. Some light and stretchy pants. </span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">My pack weighed in at just under 11lbs with all the camping gear and 4 days of food. Under 15 lbs with climbing stuff, jackets, and a few random things/electronics (mp3 player and a portable battery charger). </span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Every liter of water you carry will add 2.2lbs to your total weight.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxeJdNn6DFL5nDhXL0WC_a6ETm9gtOsHU8jsAalHlxuU0NZqEJDAnr5Vv4gUaYmKMjaLCPkVLgLG3eMe4NoSEssqZgtCyg-EmxpS-wzEfi7CE-eTuIQ-17aO9UWq0Lo5-t_WGb2717ZT-/s2048/DSC_0892.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1367" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxeJdNn6DFL5nDhXL0WC_a6ETm9gtOsHU8jsAalHlxuU0NZqEJDAnr5Vv4gUaYmKMjaLCPkVLgLG3eMe4NoSEssqZgtCyg-EmxpS-wzEfi7CE-eTuIQ-17aO9UWq0Lo5-t_WGb2717ZT-/s640/DSC_0892.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-updxL_tsNUo/X0bE9fh2BNI/AAAAAAAA3bg/VTgatzaS8NkjlIIw7d0jkXZvtKT8NthAQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG_6845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-updxL_tsNUo/X0bE9fh2BNI/AAAAAAAA3bg/VTgatzaS8NkjlIIw7d0jkXZvtKT8NthAQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6845.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yD4NQHmyjrY/X0bE9sk5plI/AAAAAAAA3bk/780JSFhewdg6ZgPXraW5mezg4UQrGEO2QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG_6846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yD4NQHmyjrY/X0bE9sk5plI/AAAAAAAA3bk/780JSFhewdg6ZgPXraW5mezg4UQrGEO2QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6846.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ezkMe8cMeBIOj5BWa0TI7KMXfuXLnC9c3S4_3O5T4y1LNeLCIKoRft5Tp3rkgYGYrz4QFexzha4gfzEalmw61IAfJC-jwWlvM2RrAOwqcaheC2dxQ1fMK7Rf4V_q3g6BMI6CwPwbFiKm/s2016/IMG_6849.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ezkMe8cMeBIOj5BWa0TI7KMXfuXLnC9c3S4_3O5T4y1LNeLCIKoRft5Tp3rkgYGYrz4QFexzha4gfzEalmw61IAfJC-jwWlvM2RrAOwqcaheC2dxQ1fMK7Rf4V_q3g6BMI6CwPwbFiKm/s640/IMG_6849.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hrkqgPkZHbE/X0bE-EzXyrI/AAAAAAAA3bs/pmmhpbVUf_smofJoetXqdw0xUvNvL8a0ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG_6850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hrkqgPkZHbE/X0bE-EzXyrI/AAAAAAAA3bs/pmmhpbVUf_smofJoetXqdw0xUvNvL8a0ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6850.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></div>VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-41148970241210295672020-02-10T17:53:00.000-08:002020-02-12T10:57:49.729-08:00Mount Whitney - First Winter Ascent of the Hairline (V 5.10d C2+)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As the horizon began to warm up and the striking wall that is the Keeler Needle started to glow pink, Chris and I took a minute to appreciate the exposure of the bivy site we dug into the narrow snow slope. Our two men tent barely fit and now we could only see the void beneath - a 1,500 foot drop to the snow slopes below Mount Whitney's East Face. It was surreal to be here, in the middle of one of the most photogenic sunrise views in the High Sierra. Hundreds of thousands people photographed this view over the years and now Chris and I were a tiny part of this surreal landscape.<br />
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Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the lower 48 states, to me is special for more than its height. Close to 10 years ago, it was my first major climb. Completing the Mountaineer's Route, in winter, was sort of a metamorphosis. Yet, on the descent, we ran into two guys who were gonna try to climb one of the more technical climbs up the peak the following day. It was unimaginable how some humans could do that, but I had not done any roped climbing and had not even gym climbed at that point, so its totally understandable technical climbing in winter seemed impossible. Yet I was fascinated by the idea, and knew I would want to learn.<br />
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Over the years, I became increasingly passionate about hiking trails, scrambling local peaks in the Sierra Nevada, picked up technical climbing skills on variable terrain and <a href="http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2020/01/first-ascents.html">begun to climb routes no other humans have climbed in the past.</a> Winter climbing and alpinism became a part of the passion and I was able to complete routes up some of the more beautiful and some of the more difficult peaks in the world; like Chacraraju, Alpamayo, Fitz Roy, El Capitan, Chopicalqui, Poincenot, Castle Rock Spire, Angels Wings, Incredible Hulk, Cerro Torre, Bubbs Creek Wall, Denali, Xanadu etc. I have returned to Mount Whitney too, and not only climbed three more technical climbs on it, including a possible second ascent of Left Wing Extremist, but also found three other ways no other human has climbed. One of them, dubbed the Inyo Face, already has been repeated by half a dozen parties who reported it to be a fun experience.<br />
<a href="https://gripped.com/news/mount-whitney-gets-new-big-5-11-called-inyo-face/">https://gripped.com/news/mount-whitney-gets-new-big-5-11-called-inyo-face/</a><br />
<a href="http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214335/The-Golden-Age">http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214335/The-Golden-Age</a><br />
<a href="https://soundcloud.com/american-alpine-journal/exploring-the-high-sierra-with-vitaliy-musiyenko">https://soundcloud.com/american-alpine-journal/exploring-the-high-sierra-with-vitaliy-musiyenko</a><br />
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During the last several years I thought of climbing the Hairline in Winter and proposed the idea to different partners. It has been a goal of mine because technically, it is the highest (in altitude) big-wall route in the lower 48 states and the route itself has seen only a few repeats - maybe 5? The route combines difficult aid and free climbing up a steep, 2,000 foot section of Mount Whitney's East Face. It was one of the standout routes put up by a prolific Sierra first ascentionist, Bruce Bindner, known as Brutus of Wyde, and I wanted to retrace his steps on his another creation.<br />
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Completing one of the most difficult big-wall routes in the Sierra Nevada, in winter, would technically make this the hardest winter ascent of a Sierra big-wall, and stood out as a distinct challenge. Doing it mid-winter, when the days are short, cold and the approaches long was not part of my idea. I thought of squeezing it in during the last days of calendar winter, in late March, with more daylight and warmth. Relatively speaking, in more enjoyable conditions, that are winter only on paper.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TpTKFFFlKro/XkIIkJJwZoI/AAAAAAAAz98/CRnPiwPBJZcX0fO4PqPK6FiQjtuN09GvQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Overlay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TpTKFFFlKro/XkIIkJJwZoI/AAAAAAAAz98/CRnPiwPBJZcX0fO4PqPK6FiQjtuN09GvQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Overlay.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rough overlay of the Hairline</td></tr>
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The faith, had a different plan. Because I am training for a trip to the Himalayas, I have been trying to get out and do some peaks in the winter. Before a chunk of time off from work I saw the winds were finally going down to 20-25 mph and planned to do some general conditioning by hiking up the MR and maybe continuing up the crest to Mount Muir, maybe tagging Mount Russell before hiking out? A few other people were interested in joining, but unfortunately bailed. My good friend Chris Koppl said he would be happy to join before we both depart from US for extended trips to Asia and because he is one of my strongest partners I knew we could do more than a hike. I brought up climbing the Hairline (V 5.10d C2+), a route he has not even heard of, and because Chris is no slouch, he simply agreed. I love Chris!! :)<br />
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I drove up after work the day prior, slept around 7,000 ft, did some photography at sunrise and did a bit of solo ice climbing in Lee Vining to acclimate to the altitude. The following morning Chris and I met up, packed and got far from an alpine start for the approach sometime after 11am. Our packs weighted in at 60 and 62 lbs at the trailhead. Even though the road closure was a few miles before the actual trailhead, our excitement and fitness made up for the late start and we managed to make it to a camp between Upper Boyscout and Iceberg Lake at 4pm. We were mega-psyched to go to sleep early, as both of us did not get enough sleep for more than a few days in a row, for me personally it is difficult to get much sleep, as I balance 12 hour work shifts with a climbing addiction which requires me to regularly work out (at a climbing gym which is close to an hour away), serious relationship, time for errands and social obligations. First world problems are still problems! Next thing I knew, my perfect evening went to shit, as while melting snow, my Mountain House dinner tipped over, the lock opened and the food I was looking forward to eating spilled all over my sleeping bag. Just another reminder that the quality of their freeze dry food packaging is garbage. Most of the other freeze dried food companies have packaging of better quality. They open, close, open again. The zip lock part on MH dinners often peels off or in this case open under minimal pressure, which in my opinion it shouldn't, as we pay restaurant prices for freeze dried foods. After having a few snack bars, I was able to relax again, and went to sleep, dreaming of finding a decent bivy ledge for the following night.<br />
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In the morning we blasted to the base, which involved a lot of trail breaking through deep soft snow, which slowed us down. For efficiency, we decided to lead in two blocks. As a more efficient aid climber, Chris led the initial pitches of aid and I led the following pitches of free climbing. It made sense because swinging leads would require a lot more time for reversing of the roles. Taking winter boots, racking etc, after jumaring for 160 feet, wouldn't be as simple as passing the collected gear to the leader. While we were in the sun for the first three pitches, it was perfectly warm on the wall, but the sun left and it became so cold that I jumared and climbed in a down jacket. We brought an over-sized climbing shoes for the leader, so that we could have thick socks underneath. For speed, neither of us gave a shit about keeping it strictly free in spots that go free, and yanked on gear in places when it would allow us to go quicker. Putting five minutes in trying to decipher a single boulder problem while the belayer is shivering wouldn't be cool and we hoped to get to the belay ledge early enough so that we can have some wiggle room if our plan didn't work.<br />
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Just before it got dark and I fell victim to the screaming barfies, I finished my last lead and we were up on 3rd class ledges where we planned to bivy for the night. As we worked on cutting a platform from a narrow snow slope above the void, we warmed up and the more we worked on it, the more we became optimistic it will be possible to set up our tent! When we did set it up, our ledge turned out to be of perfect size. Incredible! We melted water, checked the weather, ate a ton of food and went to sleep happy as clams. The phone service was decent enough that I was able to check the weather forecast for Patagonia and send my friend an update - at the moment he was climbing the Fitz Roy.<br />
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For years I dreamed of seeing the sunrise from this location and when Mount Whitney along with all of its striking needles stretching down to Mount Muir begun to light up in pink and red glow during early morning hours, it was as magical as looking at earth from the moon. Very similar to that. Darkness brought temperatures that were far below freezing and a couple of hours of sun would allow us to climb rock with our bare hands. Because we needed the rock to warm up, we took our time getting up, as jamming our paws into ice-cold cracks would be extra painful if we didn't wait. Unfortunately, we couldn't wait long. The forecast stated the temperature will rise all the way to whopping 30F at about 12,000 feet by 11am, but after 11am, the winds will start increasing to 40 mph and the temps will begin to drop towards teens. We were at about 13,500 feet and climbing to 14,500 foot summit, so we knew it would be colder. I took the first two pitches of climbing and Chris led the last pitch, after which we climbed another short step before unroping and scrambling the 3-4th class terrain with occasional cl. 5 boulder problem for another 500 feet, to the summit. Climbing up with 50 pounds of gear in our packs at 14,000 feet wasn't particularly enjoyable but I was surprised by how quickly we managed to gain elevation. No rest step, no rests to catch our breath, constant movement while trying to not let the increasing winds knock us off balance.<br />
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It was windy as hell on the summit, and I was surprised to see only 3 entries for 2020 in the register. After taking a few photos, we hid in the summit hut and Chris told me he is happy to have me as a partner for such a mission, as he wouldn't want to do something like we did with many others. It was nice to hear such a complement. Last time I heard something similar from Chris, we nearly drowned while trying to do a first ascent on a dome, which basically flooded after a thunderstorm came in quicker than we expected. We had to bail and scramble up 4th class slab which was literally a waterfall. Today, in comparison, we were on a casual walk, which isn't too far from truth. After the climb we completed, scrambling down the Mountaineer's Route and hiking out all the way back to our cars with our huge loads of big-wall gear felt easy. I told Chris I am the lucky one, as partners with more drive, work ethic, skill and sense of humor exist only in imagination. We started our descent and hiked all the way back down to our car with another hour to spare before sunset. At the trailhead, we ran into a guy who was going up to "take a look." Weather forecast for the following day was complete garbage, he was wearing skinny jeans, a cotton shirt, stylish shoes...I usually see people dressed like that on popular trails during summer, and that's ok, but winter is a different beast and Chris and I were a little worried. Hopefully, the man stayed safe and had a good trip, as the Whitney Cam the following morning showed a scene from the apocalypse.<br />
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To my surprise, I managed to make it back to Visalia with time to get a full body massage from my dear girlfriend Mariah, who was feeling sorry for the wrecked soul that entered our apartment. Even our cat seemed to sense I was a little off. The following day my legs felt like jello and I felt good about the decision to drive home. I would not have much fun staying on the east side and trying to rock climb after another night of car camping. Although I did go bouldering at a climbing gym, which was quite enjoyable.<br />
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The preparations for Nepal continue, and although I don't think I will do many other walls this winter, the Northeast Ridge of Mount Williamson is big goal. Big, burly, long, aesthetic. Hope the winds are low next time I have time off from work!<br />
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-69708474616106320522020-01-18T16:41:00.002-08:002020-12-27T10:27:31.222-08:00The List of First Ascents<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Listed are first and first free ascents I have climbed over the years. Some of these may also be variations but the huge majority of the listed routes are firsts or first documented ascents.</b> <b>There are a few routes that I have done the first ascent and the first free ascent of, they are listed twice. </b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">2012</span></b><br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SHZIwxETL4k/XiOpOjY93bI/AAAAAAAAzYw/2KYXpxg_WcsAVfYUY-oXd18rUruyWSW4wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Fortress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SHZIwxETL4k/XiOpOjY93bI/AAAAAAAAzYw/2KYXpxg_WcsAVfYUY-oXd18rUruyWSW4wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Fortress.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>1) Fortress - The Siege (IV 5.10c A0 1,000 ft) w/Daniel Jeffcoach and Tom Ruddy</b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">2013</span></b><br />
<b>1) 2 Wells peak - Krampus Crawl (IV 5.10a 1,200 ft)# w/ Michelle Peot</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UdRWN-Oxl_U/XiOsFzB7F0I/AAAAAAAAzZI/m_xbROmoHtQf-AGGaIbvuEW38-yXlU4mACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Laurel.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1159" data-original-width="1600" height="288" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UdRWN-Oxl_U/XiOsFzB7F0I/AAAAAAAAzZI/m_xbROmoHtQf-AGGaIbvuEW38-yXlU4mACLcBGAsYHQ/s400/Laurel.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>2) 3 Laurel Mountain - SE rib (III 5.6 solo)</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CgKyeEJqBWs/XiOq8v4qfII/AAAAAAAAzZA/c0V56KeveSsP-6othHo0vmIVvGt-rnjEgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Ravine.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="964" data-original-width="680" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CgKyeEJqBWs/XiOq8v4qfII/AAAAAAAAzZA/c0V56KeveSsP-6othHo0vmIVvGt-rnjEgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Ravine.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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<b>3) 4 Mt. Hood - The Ravine (III m4 wi3 400 ft) w/Anastasia</b></div>
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<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">2014 </span></b><br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tyUFm0_JviY/XhoLvst0VvI/AAAAAAAAzC8/q2lezDqRiFoUaK6q0IPHZZgNo0f47JK0wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Emperor.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1315" data-original-width="1600" height="526" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tyUFm0_JviY/XhoLvst0VvI/AAAAAAAAzC8/q2lezDqRiFoUaK6q0IPHZZgNo0f47JK0wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Emperor.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>1) 5 Bubbs creek wall - FA of the Emperor (V 5.12a 17 pitches 2200 ft) w/Luke Stefurak (final push. also Caitlin Taylor, Daniel Jeffcoach, Brian Knowles, Pavel Burov)</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxA7NM5eCeWX6gpNMnzZ8HJWxBS1u5LoTuI-e5BdQbc64u3cxzXDCjtauqpvr4akFmWY1UDIvDo9OA1-046Fkh8N-cvhOokpmHabQ-P_N5qIFtN-y1kX7Pe7BxDqAT3NCZzdP-AaWR-fSy/s1600/2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="1080" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxA7NM5eCeWX6gpNMnzZ8HJWxBS1u5LoTuI-e5BdQbc64u3cxzXDCjtauqpvr4akFmWY1UDIvDo9OA1-046Fkh8N-cvhOokpmHabQ-P_N5qIFtN-y1kX7Pe7BxDqAT3NCZzdP-AaWR-fSy/s640/2.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>2) 6 Flatiron Butte - Parasitic Nematode (IV 5.10+ 1,200 ft 5 pitches before the ridge) w/ Caitlin Taylor</b><br />
<b>3) 7 Flatiron Butte - Brutus of Wyde Memorial route (V 5.11a 1,500 ft 12 pitches) w/ Caitlin Taylor</b><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2FKZ_xr-Pb21R3P4sqiBdu15_tm-M5_uCfKj3co1DU-OZroXBhn2DNBMKDpyG7Mb9lbXyl9Qcap06IDurIvEpAvO5xtptkCbyx2eYMQ6Qmljy_8p7CdHOireLLWV1d7y6bvi9GgTWc6Go/s1600/Castle+DOme.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2FKZ_xr-Pb21R3P4sqiBdu15_tm-M5_uCfKj3co1DU-OZroXBhn2DNBMKDpyG7Mb9lbXyl9Qcap06IDurIvEpAvO5xtptkCbyx2eYMQ6Qmljy_8p7CdHOireLLWV1d7y6bvi9GgTWc6Go/s640/Castle+DOme.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>4) 8 Castle Dome - SE Arête (IV 5.10 1,100 ft 9 pitches) w/ Caitlin Taylor</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e2smGqdXn5E/XiOsYGru2CI/AAAAAAAAzZU/e-cVjxsbJZY5ZtzxKKGd6Vtd0X-uFKpCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tokopah%2Boverlay.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="649" data-original-width="965" height="430" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e2smGqdXn5E/XiOsYGru2CI/AAAAAAAAzZU/e-cVjxsbJZY5ZtzxKKGd6Vtd0X-uFKpCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Tokopah%2Boverlay.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>5) 9 Santa Cruz Dome - Usually it's sunny (III + 5.10c 800 ft 6 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach</b><br />
<b>6) 10 Lower Tokopah Dome - Boardwalk Chimney (III 5.8 540 ft 3 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B-gJ1hC35yY/XhosgktyeiI/AAAAAAAAzGc/YnWnKPcGpi8jR4d3nZUzqTUH0WyF0Go6ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/18.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B-gJ1hC35yY/XhosgktyeiI/AAAAAAAAzGc/YnWnKPcGpi8jR4d3nZUzqTUH0WyF0Go6ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/18.jpg" width="428" /></a><br />
<b>7) 11 Lower Tokopah Dome - Tokopah Reality (IV- 5.11a 650 ft 5 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach</b><br />
<b>8) 12 Lower Tokopah Dome - Beauty and the Beast (III 5.11a 600 ft 5 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WgPrG_pAtL4/XhoSt_pqJ0I/AAAAAAAAzEY/qvNTVr2fbjYOCiV3a4rqf0jNsDHPRovRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Sphinx.jpg" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1223" data-original-width="1600" height="488" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WgPrG_pAtL4/XhoSt_pqJ0I/AAAAAAAAzEY/qvNTVr2fbjYOCiV3a4rqf0jNsDHPRovRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Sphinx.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>9) 13 The Sphinx - Cotton Mouth Khafra (IV 5.11a 1,800 ft 12 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach</b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">2015</span></b><br />
<b>1) 14 Bubbs creek wall - FA/FFA of the Emperor (V 5.12a 17 pitches 2200 ft) w/ Caitlin Taylor</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CO8pIsoDQ3U/XiOtEg_1ngI/AAAAAAAAzZc/tMU-f9KyWi4BMJ0MFwuw9ajn60zs2-ClwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/CRS.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1125" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CO8pIsoDQ3U/XiOtEg_1ngI/AAAAAAAAzZc/tMU-f9KyWi4BMJ0MFwuw9ajn60zs2-ClwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/CRS.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<b>2) 15 CRS - FFA of the east face direct (III+ 5.11B 500 ft 5 pitches) w/ Maxim Belyakov</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKCdEZZcbkamzm6eoa0HbLxcjm7wQgVTol8gCpaFGN6g3fbEGKDkI-HxYf35TCehikqAuYhDU6wfBe0U_JFZGUyjXi7DH23YKdK368XrXdJCw3sFwc2AT0ebNIdCt3RMn1i28gJe7mo7s5/s1600/Mango+Lassi.jpg" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1030" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKCdEZZcbkamzm6eoa0HbLxcjm7wQgVTol8gCpaFGN6g3fbEGKDkI-HxYf35TCehikqAuYhDU6wfBe0U_JFZGUyjXi7DH23YKdK368XrXdJCw3sFwc2AT0ebNIdCt3RMn1i28gJe7mo7s5/s640/Mango+Lassi.jpg" width="456" /></a><br />
<b>3) 16 Lower Tokopah Dome - Mango Lassi Lulz Machine (III 5.10+ 600 ft 4 pitches) w/ Adam Burch</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7lr8K3ZStD8/XhoseCEaHjI/AAAAAAAAzGE/qjDrmChZLesbFHXaT72ehYl2I8gTlaulACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/19.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7lr8K3ZStD8/XhoseCEaHjI/AAAAAAAAzGE/qjDrmChZLesbFHXaT72ehYl2I8gTlaulACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/19.jpg" width="426" /></a><br />
<b>5) 17 Ericsson Crag # 3 - (IV 5.10 1,500 ft ) w/ Maxim Belyakov</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-elYuv9YmXzw/XhoLzJmHukI/AAAAAAAAzDI/gAtzDPpLrtEaxtzcrF0V7BGhWCOM_B38QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/The%2BPrism%2BRoute%2BOutline.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1040" data-original-width="1500" height="442" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-elYuv9YmXzw/XhoLzJmHukI/AAAAAAAAzDI/gAtzDPpLrtEaxtzcrF0V7BGhWCOM_B38QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/The%2BPrism%2BRoute%2BOutline.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>6) 18 The Prism - Monkeys in the Clouds IV 5.10 1,300 ft (5.7 R X) w/ Luke Stefurak (purple)</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4bDWsfWOP_A/Xhosbyt2yrI/AAAAAAAAzF4/JDF5RTZfpQ0A0fOu96UGAxA2IK7_bm0RACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/15.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="686" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4bDWsfWOP_A/Xhosbyt2yrI/AAAAAAAAzF4/JDF5RTZfpQ0A0fOu96UGAxA2IK7_bm0RACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/15.jpg" width="406" /></a><br />
<b>7) 19 Angel wings - The Golden Pillar - Killing In The Name Of (V 5.11 1,700 ft - 15 pitches) w/Adam Ferro and first attempt with Luke Stefurak (got up 1/2 way up the wall) (left Red Line) </b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MQTlFHrRjmU/XiOSjJT9mUI/AAAAAAAAzW0/8UXu5KLa9e0-m0p2GZM0QWdu6PbHZTsmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Cherubim%2BDome.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1069" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MQTlFHrRjmU/XiOSjJT9mUI/AAAAAAAAzW0/8UXu5KLa9e0-m0p2GZM0QWdu6PbHZTsmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Cherubim%2BDome.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>8) 20 Cherubum Dome - Dark Angels Have More Fun (IV 5.9+ R) 1,800 ft w/ Adam Ferro</b><br />
<b>9) 21 Cherubim Dome - What Dreams May Come (IV 5.10 R - 1,550 ft) w/Brian Prince</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DFv9NA_x6ww/XhosjArf1KI/AAAAAAAAzG0/DyD2WxFGDiA22VgEZX09Qt_JRgBclIPCACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DFv9NA_x6ww/XhosjArf1KI/AAAAAAAAzG0/DyD2WxFGDiA22VgEZX09Qt_JRgBclIPCACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/7.jpg" width="426" /></a><br />
<b>10) 22 The Serpent's Tooth - The Wild West Crack (IV 5.11+ 700 ft)w/Brian Prince</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nhf3HO3jBqs/XhosbTBGaoI/AAAAAAAAzF0/5tqLZr5RSjwLgxwHrCCi8DbUSIXsJAQJACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="926" data-original-width="1296" height="456" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nhf3HO3jBqs/XhosbTBGaoI/AAAAAAAAzF0/5tqLZr5RSjwLgxwHrCCi8DbUSIXsJAQJACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/14.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>11) 23 Hamilton Dome - Hamlet Buttress 1,700 ft (IV 5.9+ 1,800 ft) w/Brian Prince (right line)</b><br />
<b>12) 24 Hamilton Dome - The Subliminal Verses (IV 5.10- 1,350 ft w/ 400 ft of 2nd-4th class to the top) w/Brian Prince (left line)</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV7PgBLNkAt5LgUXf95CV-2flAEpovZVrSwjyfELZwVfmhgEjZel7xaNDzjGsW_sa4ypfvZFOlGD_rEfrtvH5nWHb-pL4yoR-dyd9o2IqXSGIxwJeZ-P2oO_a8pmCT1OB2hgExD77F060B/s1600/10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV7PgBLNkAt5LgUXf95CV-2flAEpovZVrSwjyfELZwVfmhgEjZel7xaNDzjGsW_sa4ypfvZFOlGD_rEfrtvH5nWHb-pL4yoR-dyd9o2IqXSGIxwJeZ-P2oO_a8pmCT1OB2hgExD77F060B/s640/10.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>13) 25 Rowell Tower - Full Nelson (IV 5.10+ R) w/Brian Prince</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GpOrMylrOZI/XhoshpHj7GI/AAAAAAAAzGk/qNK6dzW3neA78AY-hBiryyib__-sCfqHgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="775" data-original-width="1080" height="458" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GpOrMylrOZI/XhoshpHj7GI/AAAAAAAAzGk/qNK6dzW3neA78AY-hBiryyib__-sCfqHgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/3.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>14) 26 The Globe - Standing Ovation (III 5.10- 950 ft) w/Brian Prince</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7xNnFzHp29Q/XhosZhbi1NI/AAAAAAAAzFg/jI5JEHiKsCMB0ic2h4rgH-H0_KHTy8ChACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7xNnFzHp29Q/XhosZhbi1NI/AAAAAAAAzFg/jI5JEHiKsCMB0ic2h4rgH-H0_KHTy8ChACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/11.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>15) 27 Eagle Scout Creek Dome - Direct West Face (IV 800 ft 5.11 C1) w/Brian Prince</b><br />
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<b>16) 28 Darth Vador Tower - Knob Wars (III 5.10- R - 1,000) w/ Brian Prince</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSb4iFOuGdrWz2JlATa8LVeop8emnjRcQYlkoLSKYgsJGZTLB4IEcU0kMU53uGvDqLi-fzVSOZaEhWE1fTcOmwMsOnW1iACmlNR4xaEGMCssaWGNzWlQHQ3OSUzH5kMQq8mkLtNEzBm7dR/s1600/Panther+Pk+1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1237" data-original-width="1600" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSb4iFOuGdrWz2JlATa8LVeop8emnjRcQYlkoLSKYgsJGZTLB4IEcU0kMU53uGvDqLi-fzVSOZaEhWE1fTcOmwMsOnW1iACmlNR4xaEGMCssaWGNzWlQHQ3OSUzH5kMQq8mkLtNEzBm7dR/s640/Panther+Pk+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<b>4) 29 Panther Peak - Krymptonite (III 5.11b/c 650 ft - 5 pitches) w/ Adam Shepperd (Red line, the leftmost line)</b><br />
<b>17) 30 Panther peak-Rack em up reed variation III 5.10 w/Daniel Jeffcoach and Alaina Robertson (Blue line in the middle)</b><br />
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<b>18) 31 Unicorn - North Buttress 5.10a FFA? w/ Julia </b></div>
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<span face=""lucida grande" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif" style="color: black; font-size: x-large;"><b>2016</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QOKmv_GmFJI/XiOSdo7YCoI/AAAAAAAAzW8/ZhefWnSr2Rode-pm6_DH4CBHnvD1kxLFgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Moro.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="960" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QOKmv_GmFJI/XiOSdo7YCoI/AAAAAAAAzW8/ZhefWnSr2Rode-pm6_DH4CBHnvD1kxLFgCEwYBhgL/s640/Moro.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<b><span face=""lucida grande" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif" style="color: black;">1) 32 Moro rock - FFA modern guilt IV 5.12 </span><span face=""lucida grande" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif" style="color: black;"></span><span face=""lucida grande" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif" style="color: black;">1,000 w/ Brian Prince (Route 13)</span></b></div>
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<b><span face=""lucida grande" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif" style="color: black;">2) 33 Moro rock - Meteora 5.10 C1 </span><span face=""lucida grande" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif" style="color: black;"></span><span face=""lucida grande" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif" style="color: black;">1,000 w/Daniel Jeffcoach (red line)</span></b></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7njmjn3KpBk/XhosZ06W2LI/AAAAAAAAzFo/Fwhk-WJowQwOOc03VRvF4LgVdxWbmNEbACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="773" data-original-width="1080" height="458" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7njmjn3KpBk/XhosZ06W2LI/AAAAAAAAzFo/Fwhk-WJowQwOOc03VRvF4LgVdxWbmNEbACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>3) 34 North sentinel - FML crack IV 5.11 C1 750 w/Daniel Jeffcoach, Brandon Thau, Daniel Jeffcoach ** (3)</b></div>
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<b>4) 35 North sentinel - Eddie's Crack 250 w/Brian Prince, Caitlin and Chaz *** (1)</b></div>
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<b>5) 36 North sentinel - Eddie's Chimney *** 700 w/Brian Prince, Caitlin and Chaz (2)</b></div>
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<b>6) 37 North sentinel - Chasing the wind (finished the last 1/3 of the route Daniel and Adam climbed) 850 w/ Caitlin Taylor *** (4)</b></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Aq3UH-e9bR4/XiOfBKQ9kVI/AAAAAAAAzXw/Gebl7gZew-A0F0wM59VkuriPfW0mft4cACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Happy%2BDome.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Aq3UH-e9bR4/XiOfBKQ9kVI/AAAAAAAAzXw/Gebl7gZew-A0F0wM59VkuriPfW0mft4cACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Happy%2BDome.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>7) 38 Happy Dome - Men in Heat IV 5.8R 1,800 w/Daniel Jeffcoach</b></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9ikfSXHnnP4/XhoLvWj2bSI/AAAAAAAAzC4/MXFbyvRKzMYUS-1DN1l3lsMSRd5Q6dqXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Dark%2BTower.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="735" data-original-width="1080" height="434" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9ikfSXHnnP4/XhoLvWj2bSI/AAAAAAAAzC4/MXFbyvRKzMYUS-1DN1l3lsMSRd5Q6dqXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Dark%2BTower.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>8) 39 Dark Tower - Roland's Journey 1000 ft IV 5.8-9 1,000 w/ Brian Prince and Alaina Robertson *</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlhnZAkG8lOVdzSxms6Chp002a5EXCkBsLSPRod6AX-9MxfKVFchogAZpdP9MGGb-db3lFA-oqnxvARLpoSMSqKu2mZc7IBPfZCj0aGgXlYnsGZ4_gFLbVqnQuaiXmdspjQL5oRg2NHCQ/s1600/Gamblers+Special.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="1080" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlhnZAkG8lOVdzSxms6Chp002a5EXCkBsLSPRod6AX-9MxfKVFchogAZpdP9MGGb-db3lFA-oqnxvARLpoSMSqKu2mZc7IBPfZCj0aGgXlYnsGZ4_gFLbVqnQuaiXmdspjQL5oRg2NHCQ/s640/Gamblers+Special.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>9) 40 Gambler's Special - Ghost Riders in the Sky IV - (V 5.10) 1,600 ft+400ft up to 5.7solo w/ Alaina Robertson *** (Line #1)</b></div>
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<b>12) 41 Gambler's Special - Wait and Bleed (IV 5.10-) 1,600 w/ Shaun Reed (Line #2)</b></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6k851boR81g/XiOvfwihZsI/AAAAAAAAzZo/SYFwyDadLREUHHwX32JQPZxmRNZCVvRcQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Cleaver%2BOverlay%2B%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6k851boR81g/XiOvfwihZsI/AAAAAAAAzZo/SYFwyDadLREUHHwX32JQPZxmRNZCVvRcQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Cleaver%2BOverlay%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>11) 42 Cleaver - The Butcher FFA (IV 5.12) 850ft w/Shaun Reed***</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HGPFS9EoDIA/XiOpKu1tlRI/AAAAAAAAzYs/tOlkwv6uP3oOhha3fnD7UPNMy3keRXfAACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ClarenceKing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1190" data-original-width="1200" height="634" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HGPFS9EoDIA/XiOpKu1tlRI/AAAAAAAAzYs/tOlkwv6uP3oOhha3fnD7UPNMy3keRXfAACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/ClarenceKing.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b style="text-align: left;">13) 43 Clarence King - Direct NW Face (V 5.11) 2000 FT w/Chaz **</b></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tTt3vtdNyKw/XhoLwisRgJI/AAAAAAAAzDA/kLI969-M2VEDen0yyNiv_VSwutQZnYcSACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Gardiner.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="770" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tTt3vtdNyKw/XhoLwisRgJI/AAAAAAAAzDA/kLI969-M2VEDen0yyNiv_VSwutQZnYcSACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Gardiner.jpeg" width="456" /></a></div>
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<b>14) 44 Gardnier - Golden Bear Tower - Polemonium IV 5.10- 1,500 w/Chaz L *** (Red line #1)</b></div>
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<b>15) 45 Gardnier - Vermillion pt 1. (5.11- R X) 1,300 * w/ Chaz L (Red line #2)</b></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BTdURCCe-TM/XhoL3mSnbCI/AAAAAAAAzDU/Y9-oORYE4r4iH21zHhGh_Er9j8kF7ZT1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Whitney%2BFirsts.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="669" data-original-width="1080" height="396" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BTdURCCe-TM/XhoL3mSnbCI/AAAAAAAAzDU/Y9-oORYE4r4iH21zHhGh_Er9j8kF7ZT1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Whitney%2BFirsts.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">*this Mount Whitney overlay is semi </b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><b>inaccurate</b></span><b style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"> and very oversimplified. </b></span></div>
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<b>10) 46 Mt. Whitney - Inyo Face (V 5.11a ) 2,200ft w/ Austin Siadak (red line #4)</b></div>
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<b>16) 47 Whitney - Uncertainty Principle (V 5.11, 5.10R) 2,200 w/ Adam Ferro ** (Red Line #5)</b></div>
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<b>20) 48 Mt. Whitney - Happy to Be Here (V 5.11- R) 2000 ft w/ Brian Prince (negative stars lol) ( red line 8)</b></div>
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<b>17) 49 Mt. Hitchcock - Starlight Dihedral (IV-V 5.11 5.7RX) - 1,600 w/ Adam Ferro (FA of the buttress not the wall. The long wall has multiple buttresses at least three of which have been climbed) ***</b></div>
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<b>18) 50 Arctic Lake Wall - TMI (Too much fun) (III 5.10-) 550 ft w/ Adam Ferro ***</b></div>
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<b>19) 51 Hitchcock - Welcome to Krackizstan (IV-V 5.11-) 1600ft w/ Adam Ferro ***</b></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rspgthvhrzw/XhoSssjz84I/AAAAAAAAzEQ/gMtKvU8QmykGiAh5UsHOm1HDxl-aW7YSwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Arctic%2BBeast.jpg" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="569" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rspgthvhrzw/XhoSssjz84I/AAAAAAAAzEQ/gMtKvU8QmykGiAh5UsHOm1HDxl-aW7YSwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Arctic%2BBeast.jpg" width="226" /></a></div>
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<b>21) 52 Arctic Lake Wall - Arctic Beast (III 5.11+) 700 ft w/ Brian Prince ***</b></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zoA85vRb0ak/XhoL28NrclI/AAAAAAAAzDQ/K1Mw7edkMcIW4vsgEoxoV1iR7cKbXvOBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Watsi%2Bwall.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="770" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zoA85vRb0ak/XhoL28NrclI/AAAAAAAAzDQ/K1Mw7edkMcIW4vsgEoxoV1iR7cKbXvOBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Watsi%2Bwall.jpg" width="456" /></a></div>
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<b>22) 53 Watsi Wall (2200 ft) via Lost World (VI 5.11+ A3 R) 2700 ft w/ Brian Prince and Daniel Jeffcoach **</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidMln47j0BXIdymzK4qHqUMmV_GJEOIYGKHDD_Cbmd18j81GlJPSkjHetQ0Ep-6ePowvqURfLPPn_zWts-ruJcjM6BcN7R7pY-jt4J7-QHf3eOufOx6bff4BpggkU7Oa7ikekrV9s9IH1m/s1600/Watkins.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="655" data-original-width="1080" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidMln47j0BXIdymzK4qHqUMmV_GJEOIYGKHDD_Cbmd18j81GlJPSkjHetQ0Ep-6ePowvqURfLPPn_zWts-ruJcjM6BcN7R7pY-jt4J7-QHf3eOufOx6bff4BpggkU7Oa7ikekrV9s9IH1m/s640/Watkins.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>23) 54 Mt. Watkins - Teabag Wisdom (IV 5.11-) 1350 ft w/ Chris Kolpp ***</b></div>
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<b>24) 55 The Harding Tower - New Life (IV 5.10) 2000 ft w/ Mark Westman *</b></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><b>2017</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>1) 56 Moro Rock - Meteora IV 5.11+ 1200ft w/Brian Prince </b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lR77--nErQw/XhoSq_nwIII/AAAAAAAAzEE/L3AIiQCQe24wZSlDFNS3RYEMVJKw_agQQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Grand%2BSentinel.jpg" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lR77--nErQw/XhoSq_nwIII/AAAAAAAAzEE/L3AIiQCQe24wZSlDFNS3RYEMVJKw_agQQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Grand%2BSentinel.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>2. 57 Grand Sentinel - NE buttress III 5.10 800ft w/Chaz</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>3. 58 The Fin - East Face - Cutting Edge III 5.9 1000ft w/Daniel Jeffcoach</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>4. 59 The Fin - East Face - Super Totally Trad IV 5.11a 1000ft w/Jeremy Ross</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yiCWZB-NfpU/XhosjYrnDoI/AAAAAAAAzG8/j8NWYp8yf54HLoubAYrO2P2pH9SlALu-wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yiCWZB-NfpU/XhosjYrnDoI/AAAAAAAAzG8/j8NWYp8yf54HLoubAYrO2P2pH9SlALu-wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/8.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>5. 60 The Fin - West Face - Tainted Love IV 5.11- w/ Chaz</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>6. 61 Charlotte Dome - The Dance of Dragons IV 5.10+ w/ Jeremy Ross</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vApP3OrdOrc/XhosiymG3II/AAAAAAAAzGw/JQXvj_X3hxYnbUMGgxAQxYfIYpO9Fvy-ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="919" data-original-width="1080" height="544" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vApP3OrdOrc/XhosiymG3II/AAAAAAAAzGw/JQXvj_X3hxYnbUMGgxAQxYfIYpO9Fvy-ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/6.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>7. 62 North Cotter - Vertical Illusiin III-IV 5.9+ w/Chaz Langlier</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-stugL0A23RA/Xhosa0D2OiI/AAAAAAAAzFw/-d5sPugk4F0azDOveDF-dWsWU1LrsJxigCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/13.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="827" data-original-width="1080" height="490" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-stugL0A23RA/Xhosa0D2OiI/AAAAAAAAzFw/-d5sPugk4F0azDOveDF-dWsWU1LrsJxigCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/13.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>8. 63 Albatross - Direct Southeast face IV 5.10+ w/Brian Prince and Adam Ferro</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>9. 64 Xanadu - Arctic Knight NW face IV 5.11+ w/Brian Prince and Adam Ferro</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LzBETndxhvs/XiOwO3edptI/AAAAAAAAzZ4/08VgZlx6wBMJ2pbXUlpz9G0L7KCDzM5gwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC00983.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LzBETndxhvs/XiOwO3edptI/AAAAAAAAzZ4/08VgZlx6wBMJ2pbXUlpz9G0L7KCDzM5gwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/DSC00983.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>10. 65 Mt. Watkins - Capt Hook VI C4 5.10+ (takes the left prow)</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>11. 66 Harding Tower - Semper Farscismus IV 5.11b w Chris Koppl</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bMQmE-A95Ac/XhosjRHlldI/AAAAAAAAzG4/sF6VsUUsBQQA-5q4hc6IO3hIcLn8p1SzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/24.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bMQmE-A95Ac/XhosjRHlldI/AAAAAAAAzG4/sF6VsUUsBQQA-5q4hc6IO3hIcLn8p1SzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/24.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>12. 67 Wheeler Crest w/Richard Shore</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>13. 68 Wheeler Crest w/Richard Shore</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tKxWdV1-ZXM/XhoshkphVDI/AAAAAAAAzGo/btW5HKzeHI4hzerI_a3-8E6Qp21MD24-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tKxWdV1-ZXM/XhoshkphVDI/AAAAAAAAzGo/btW5HKzeHI4hzerI_a3-8E6Qp21MD24-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/4.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>14. 69 Hamilton Dome - Ophelia III 1,300'5.9 w/ Chaz Langlier</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>15. 70 Beau te Cache Dome (FA) - Fantomas III 5.9 1,100' w/Chaz Langlier </b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wB7oepBj6JI/Xhosg6Nw10I/AAAAAAAAzGg/oV0JL9qtzsUlmPJMJtbApaLMW5h0yMXkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/25.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wB7oepBj6JI/Xhosg6Nw10I/AAAAAAAAzGg/oV0JL9qtzsUlmPJMJtbApaLMW5h0yMXkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/25.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>16. 71 Wheeler crest w/Richard Shore And Brian Prince</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GmRsg-m5lyo/XhosgJApSVI/AAAAAAAAzGY/ywk4DEZDsxAhRfXbYNMWRqkQsx0TgtaYACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/23.jpg" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GmRsg-m5lyo/XhosgJApSVI/AAAAAAAAzGY/ywk4DEZDsxAhRfXbYNMWRqkQsx0TgtaYACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/23.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>17. 72 Wheeler crest w/Richard Shore, Brandon Thau, Daniel Jeffcoach and Brian Prince </b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bMQmE-A95Ac/XhosjRHlldI/AAAAAAAAzG4/sF6VsUUsBQQA-5q4hc6IO3hIcLn8p1SzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/24.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bMQmE-A95Ac/XhosjRHlldI/AAAAAAAAzG4/sF6VsUUsBQQA-5q4hc6IO3hIcLn8p1SzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/24.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>18. 73 Wheeler crest</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>2018</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>1. 74 Olancha - tumbleweed III 5.10+ w/Richard Shore and Chris Koppl</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>2. 75 Santa Cruz Dome - Knotfest III 5.11- w/Maxim Belyakov</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TcreMX9HrJQ/Xhose05ZX5I/AAAAAAAAzGM/o4PvR6MCVioGBi-RKy_RAdlPDmOVtEDdgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TcreMX9HrJQ/Xhose05ZX5I/AAAAAAAAzGM/o4PvR6MCVioGBi-RKy_RAdlPDmOVtEDdgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/20.jpg" width="426" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>3. 76 Lone Pine Peak - FFA of Pathways through to space V 5.11a</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J3GhoIKxYl0/Xhosf6w5F6I/AAAAAAAAzGU/0w-MsuZKLSwznhp7xNSEwBy_XibtUWHxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/22.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="784" data-original-width="1080" height="464" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J3GhoIKxYl0/Xhosf6w5F6I/AAAAAAAAzGU/0w-MsuZKLSwznhp7xNSEwBy_XibtUWHxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/22.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>4. 77 Lone Pine Peak - FA of Tomahawk Arete IV-V 5.11 w/Chaz</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2HzLDjjXoEg/XhosfcMkJ7I/AAAAAAAAzGQ/Ni--D_j1Bi0sux9Hmq81BBb__LYHpQW1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/21.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2HzLDjjXoEg/XhosfcMkJ7I/AAAAAAAAzGQ/Ni--D_j1Bi0sux9Hmq81BBb__LYHpQW1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/21.jpg" width="426" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>5. 78 Lone Pine Peak - FFA of Streets of the Mountains IV-V 5.10+</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>6. 79 The Cleaver - Dot the Ts III 5.10+ or 5.11- w Shaun Reed</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--0WR10bxudQ/XhosiaQPqzI/AAAAAAAAzGs/HtVlzaRmwjEtxW9VHrWUUL-op1jwswxOgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--0WR10bxudQ/XhosiaQPqzI/AAAAAAAAzGs/HtVlzaRmwjEtxW9VHrWUUL-op1jwswxOgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/5.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>7. 80 Bubbs Creek Wall - Panda Express V 5.11 A1 w/Daniel Jeffcoach</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ov-a_tkQeCDdzAgkQLX3p9x4iXbL-KBsc_HYLiULVqG-nIK9TE2jltE1JVd6dnqji_qqXz4824qjiGcyExHQpvoIyF0XXD9xqbTml0N6xtVUKEkrbOgH_k1mUBmTgt4Nr7G2AyBDjP-X/s1600/East+Lake+wall.jpg" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ov-a_tkQeCDdzAgkQLX3p9x4iXbL-KBsc_HYLiULVqG-nIK9TE2jltE1JVd6dnqji_qqXz4824qjiGcyExHQpvoIyF0XXD9xqbTml0N6xtVUKEkrbOgH_k1mUBmTgt4Nr7G2AyBDjP-X/s640/East+Lake+wall.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>8. 81 Wild Iris Dome III 5.10 700 FT w/Chaz</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LYBK0C_D9JU/XhoSsrW6g-I/AAAAAAAAzEU/OabbPOf6CQAJdfoMDMXkr-oHdkMGxHAfQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Erikkson%2Bchoss.jpg" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1570" data-original-width="1600" height="314" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LYBK0C_D9JU/XhoSsrW6g-I/AAAAAAAAzEU/OabbPOf6CQAJdfoMDMXkr-oHdkMGxHAfQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Erikkson%2Bchoss.jpg" width="320" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>9. 82 Mount Ericsson 1,600 ft 5.10 RX w/Chaz</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1WZpJjU5JMA/XhoSp6yD7rI/AAAAAAAAzD8/JZktvMxeNAUnEAc-uuAN_0UBczEzyzErACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Crag%25233.jpg" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="394" data-original-width="700" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1WZpJjU5JMA/XhoSp6yD7rI/AAAAAAAAzD8/JZktvMxeNAUnEAc-uuAN_0UBczEzyzErACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Crag%25233.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>10. 83 Ericsson Crag #3 - King of the North 1,400 5.11a w/Chaz</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>11. 84 The Cleaver - Dreamliner III-IV 5.11b/c </b></span><b style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">with Shaun Reed July 7th 800 ft</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uNqhB_UNMO0/XiOh1gYbu9I/AAAAAAAAzYA/4_dXbz2ZsGAiDdz3dfSXfZtrMS-I0tN2ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/P1050039.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uNqhB_UNMO0/XiOh1gYbu9I/AAAAAAAAzYA/4_dXbz2ZsGAiDdz3dfSXfZtrMS-I0tN2ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/P1050039.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>12. 85 Alta Crags III 5.9 Daniel and Adam Shepperd July 11th 700 ft</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnXWriaKydyedR3kYu4iKbqIYKya7VX-XIsWAn0vwWQW_hAu4hbS-gC8hOjtF1HAbHtZxEMSxJfMDc6v0MvqdwmsaDKA54-ErcUU4QDtibV_LEh7Y83HPoxnEcammgoDb2FhBSTlUHrddS/s1600/12.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1080" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnXWriaKydyedR3kYu4iKbqIYKya7VX-XIsWAn0vwWQW_hAu4hbS-gC8hOjtF1HAbHtZxEMSxJfMDc6v0MvqdwmsaDKA54-ErcUU4QDtibV_LEh7Y83HPoxnEcammgoDb2FhBSTlUHrddS/s640/12.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>13. 86 Mt. LeConte - Space Force 1000 FT 5.11b with Roger Putnam 2018<span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span></b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V_xQgjtYnco/XhoscTJDSDI/AAAAAAAAzF8/b190G37wuSgW5WQN-64QT6HwMjORzrkUwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/16.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="971" data-original-width="1080" height="574" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V_xQgjtYnco/XhoscTJDSDI/AAAAAAAAzF8/b190G37wuSgW5WQN-64QT6HwMjORzrkUwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/16.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>14. 87 Stewart - The Antichrist Dihedral August 2018 with Jake Smith 1,600 ft</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>15. 88 The Shield - Lightning Bolt Cracks August 2018 with Jake Smith 1000ft</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cnaU23RJEmU/XhosczlcpUI/AAAAAAAAzGA/pRNIBspxkwM1L0cgoThdcLIYSN0vTv9EACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/17.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cnaU23RJEmU/XhosczlcpUI/AAAAAAAAzGA/pRNIBspxkwM1L0cgoThdcLIYSN0vTv9EACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/17.jpg" width="426" /></a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>16. 89 The Red Rocket - Cool Beans III 5.12b August 2018 with Jake Smith 800ft</b></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2vJarHuoC6g/Xho0rYlSpAI/AAAAAAAAzH0/-hdcoRGTHJMlUF7yratfwUJwadPe-Q6cgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Panther%2BPk%2B1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1237" data-original-width="1600" height="494" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2vJarHuoC6g/Xho0rYlSpAI/AAAAAAAAzH0/-hdcoRGTHJMlUF7yratfwUJwadPe-Q6cgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Panther%2BPk%2B1.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">17. 90 Panther Peak - </span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Ailurophobia III 5.11 A0 </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">700ft w/ Daniel Jeffcoach (Orange)</span></b></div>
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<div id="m_2043942003789819883yiv6449904909ymail_android_signature" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DI8ElNlrxEPINymC16yoJRwNkMiMc-hsThs72YuIVYwFU2K7xGkGhbVGHCN1isWBzauhW6QoVzS7EE1fi_CpbaALSl2oP-q1sam0z-C5Zr7YI2RFj1EPPIWTbbrVaLk4WQLI_-OS13P0/s1600/Eaglette.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="864" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DI8ElNlrxEPINymC16yoJRwNkMiMc-hsThs72YuIVYwFU2K7xGkGhbVGHCN1isWBzauhW6QoVzS7EE1fi_CpbaALSl2oP-q1sam0z-C5Zr7YI2RFj1EPPIWTbbrVaLk4WQLI_-OS13P0/s640/Eaglette.jpg" width="512" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b style="text-align: left;">18. 91 Eaglette Pinnacle - Sweet Corn and Steak III 5.10a 750 ft</b></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fjgGZHvmLXk/XiOi3de9cmI/AAAAAAAAzYU/cOdsDOkOB-gPPvSbh-TU0vBJkNBt8Z1GQCEwYBhgL/s1600/eagles.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="386" data-original-width="1080" height="228" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fjgGZHvmLXk/XiOi3de9cmI/AAAAAAAAzYU/cOdsDOkOB-gPPvSbh-TU0vBJkNBt8Z1GQCEwYBhgL/s640/eagles.png" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>19. 92 Periscope/Wallace Stegner spire - Sweet Corn and Steak IV 5.10 1,400 ft</b><br />
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<b>20. 93 Long Dong Wall - Sick Gnarski Pillar IV 5.11a 1,800.</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jD4d-vty3yM/Xhosj06lFYI/AAAAAAAAzHA/PRCuV7zk8ygsN0HHMSIn_KwtNVbxpeikwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/9.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="841" data-original-width="1080" height="498" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jD4d-vty3yM/Xhosj06lFYI/AAAAAAAAzHA/PRCuV7zk8ygsN0HHMSIn_KwtNVbxpeikwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/9.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>21. 94 Third Recess Peak - Direct NE buttress IV 5.10d September 2018 1500 ft with Maxim belyakov</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>22) 95 Disappointment peak - West Chimney IV 5.10a with Cam Burns Sept 2018</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sbUuvkKXY8c/XhoSrsP71OI/AAAAAAAAzEI/Veoi5kAWshUCjYa764d5ARiz5R00qNilgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Langille.jpg" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sbUuvkKXY8c/XhoSrsP71OI/AAAAAAAAzEI/Veoi5kAWshUCjYa764d5ARiz5R00qNilgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Langille.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>23) 96 Langille - Three Quarters of a Man IV 5.11a pg13 w/ Brian prince September 2018</b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">2019</span></b><br />
<b>1. 97 Mochito (Patagonia) - Mosca Para Mujer 5.8 A3 1,000' with Chris Koppl</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>2. 98 Hot tuna tower IV 5.12 a0 1,100 w/Brian Prince, Richard Shore and Brandon Thau</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oVew7HHi9Vs/XiOYFishwTI/AAAAAAAAzXQ/w0KfJDgG9YEh5Gfkhs7Hh2Wf0uxXMLFxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Charlotte%2BAAJ.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1542" data-original-width="1600" height="616" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oVew7HHi9Vs/XiOYFishwTI/AAAAAAAAzXQ/w0KfJDgG9YEh5Gfkhs7Hh2Wf0uxXMLFxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Charlotte%2BAAJ.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>3. 99 Charlotte dome (October 2016)- Diary of a Crimpy Kid 5.10a 1,800'. W/Meike (Red)</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hGCI8GvxWQM/XiOYtEhCpXI/AAAAAAAAzXY/xH6wnFByVmgrpgl1YlwSxXakARbdXDHYACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/LPP%2Bnew%2Broute%2Boverlay.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hGCI8GvxWQM/XiOYtEhCpXI/AAAAAAAAzXY/xH6wnFByVmgrpgl1YlwSxXakARbdXDHYACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/LPP%2Bnew%2Broute%2Boverlay.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>4. 100 Peak 3,986 M - Raiders of The Lost Dike IV 5 11a 1,800 w. Jeremy Ross and Sully</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yAQKrme8nQY/XhoWTC_AbJI/AAAAAAAAzFI/q2-EulHGuFQmMrdq8ouzcKzFyqYPiO8NQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/The%2BSurfboard%2Boutline.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yAQKrme8nQY/XhoWTC_AbJI/AAAAAAAAzFI/q2-EulHGuFQmMrdq8ouzcKzFyqYPiO8NQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/The%2BSurfboard%2Boutline.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>5. 101 Lone Pine peak - The Surfboard IV 5.11c W/Chris Koppl</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ezE3HQXovHA/XhoVgQD8JiI/AAAAAAAAzFA/z2JminAYyl03n3C7ucJUgTs2xtUvOIBSACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/North%2BDome.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="712" data-original-width="721" height="632" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ezE3HQXovHA/XhoVgQD8JiI/AAAAAAAAzFA/z2JminAYyl03n3C7ucJUgTs2xtUvOIBSACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/North%2BDome.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>6. 102 North Dome - Lucid Dream IV 5.11 A2 Daniel Jeffcoach (RED)</b><br />
<b>7. 103 North Dome - Great White North IV-V 5 11+ 1,600ft with Brian Prince and Daniel Jeffcoach (ORANGE)</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GQrrEM7uiik/XiOlaKdNMII/AAAAAAAAzYg/I6Bk5crNxO4S0nrQlEcz-qA5EhfKm2mLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Sugarloaf%2Boverlay.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1511" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GQrrEM7uiik/XiOlaKdNMII/AAAAAAAAzYg/I6Bk5crNxO4S0nrQlEcz-qA5EhfKm2mLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Sugarloaf%2Boverlay.jpg" width="604" /></a></div>
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<b>8. 104 Sugarloaf - Sugar Mamma IV 5.11a 1,600ft with Chris Koppl</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ykk6krSj8BQ/XhoL4cfsBQI/AAAAAAAAzDY/s7R80JIWHsQF96Y0AVNZ5aANYrKvWb1sQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Marion%2BLake%2BArete.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ykk6krSj8BQ/XhoL4cfsBQI/AAAAAAAAzDY/s7R80JIWHsQF96Y0AVNZ5aANYrKvWb1sQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Marion%2BLake%2BArete.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>9. 105 Alexandra's Arete 1,200 5.11B (above Marion Lake w/ Brian Prince July)</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVZmPbPHdzWW7d4j8lHDxhQWPiQP1GWo7C1_0vIsyCIITgePC3ebU1oqHB4SQRYaOPgkoo1-GGqJoOqZ_N5NQnT4J2npqA5kzwfb3lmn_EPlqrxPSJv1n4PayimUDQ3qMZPyRtgsFvX_OM/s1600/Day+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVZmPbPHdzWW7d4j8lHDxhQWPiQP1GWo7C1_0vIsyCIITgePC3ebU1oqHB4SQRYaOPgkoo1-GGqJoOqZ_N5NQnT4J2npqA5kzwfb3lmn_EPlqrxPSJv1n4PayimUDQ3qMZPyRtgsFvX_OM/s640/Day+2.jpg" width="426" /></a><b><br /></b>
<b>10. 106 Helen's Face - The Fourth Finger 5.10d 1,000' w/ Brian Prince July 2019</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qMcFGY9VCD4/XiOSTOMLP_I/AAAAAAAAzWY/IAuO13jXiYA6HNBJ1w3l3pkLXTLeYD2GQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Hershey%2527s%2BKiss%2Boverlay.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qMcFGY9VCD4/XiOSTOMLP_I/AAAAAAAAzWY/IAuO13jXiYA6HNBJ1w3l3pkLXTLeYD2GQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Hershey%2527s%2BKiss%2Boverlay.jpg" width="640" /></a><b><br /></b>
<b>11. 107 Hershey Kiss - Sugaree (5.11c 1,000) w/ Brian Prince and Chaz Langlier, July 2019</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-afbrZ8mF5UY/XhoL4SMoxcI/AAAAAAAAzDw/eQgerDS4KFMnYtEu_3xY3bMz5MJCiQOjgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Watchtower%2BBig%2BTime%2Boverlay.jpg" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1190" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-afbrZ8mF5UY/XhoL4SMoxcI/AAAAAAAAzDw/eQgerDS4KFMnYtEu_3xY3bMz5MJCiQOjgCEwYBhgL/s640/Watchtower%2BBig%2BTime%2Boverlay.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>12. 108 Watchtower - Big Time IV 5.12a 1,000' w/ Brian Prince August</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JK4Tbhy3Jr0/XiOSVGJu2LI/AAAAAAAAzWc/EYPOExhVusghLG1ovQGJfxQxydXIgU_SgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Spring%2BLake%2Boverlay%2BTMF%2BOrange.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1511" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JK4Tbhy3Jr0/XiOSVGJu2LI/AAAAAAAAzWc/EYPOExhVusghLG1ovQGJfxQxydXIgU_SgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Spring%2BLake%2Boverlay%2BTMF%2BOrange.jpg" width="604" /></a></div>
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<b>13. 109 Spring Lake Wall - No Fun Allowed IV 5.10d 1,200 with Tad MaCrae and Eliot B. August ORANGE LINE</b></div>
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<b>14. 110 Spring Lake Wall - FFA of The One That Got Away IV 5.11B 1,500' with Eliot B. August RED LINE</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xCUx8s-j-GU/XhoL1pliTOI/AAAAAAAAzDM/_YExSjP_P7sGdHw5wDSk9ML9PjKqRRuRwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Bunnell%2Boverlay.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xCUx8s-j-GU/XhoL1pliTOI/AAAAAAAAzDM/_YExSjP_P7sGdHw5wDSk9ML9PjKqRRuRwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Bunnell%2Boverlay.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>15. 111 Bunnell Point - The Salad Tossing Dike (IV-V 5.11a) 2,550' w/ Christian Black and Chris Koppl September 2019</b></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gC_lysBksHI/XiOSNuFk_nI/AAAAAAAAzWQ/7r3Df-NELyMGxpE--68jNEqnlQLDZSMxACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Conness%2Boverlay.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gC_lysBksHI/XiOSNuFk_nI/AAAAAAAAzWQ/7r3Df-NELyMGxpE--68jNEqnlQLDZSMxACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Conness%2Boverlay.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>16. 112 Mount Conness - Pound a Pin, Drink a Cobra IV 5.11d 1,000' with </b><b>Chris Koppl, July 2019 </b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QOKmv_GmFJI/XiOSdo7YCoI/AAAAAAAAzWg/AM5UtDpLz8EBobQOX5_zDjF5XpWPJGXKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Moro.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="960" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QOKmv_GmFJI/XiOSdo7YCoI/AAAAAAAAzWg/AM5UtDpLz8EBobQOX5_zDjF5XpWPJGXKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Moro.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>17. 113 Moro Rock - Meteora original line FFA IV 5.12B with Brian Prince and Chris Koppl May (big red line)</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk02cmmqvKGoKAtllILyJx3sQwFKw2QMyyRyBkt9konJnLq1O7mK5TMAFPWwEfo98ngk9RoQ3k43It9rrOV_ziCFgu787nqyxFmR3IA8bmdg7sMlg5FAqiHHA3Qq8QWBmSC8Wcyqo4XJhq/s1600/Yosemite_102408_275.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="768" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk02cmmqvKGoKAtllILyJx3sQwFKw2QMyyRyBkt9konJnLq1O7mK5TMAFPWwEfo98ngk9RoQ3k43It9rrOV_ziCFgu787nqyxFmR3IA8bmdg7sMlg5FAqiHHA3Qq8QWBmSC8Wcyqo4XJhq/s640/Yosemite_102408_275.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r4nmhXhGLpU/XiOSh17DtWI/AAAAAAAAzWw/mWrG5BGPa2sb30YUNAPGzX95L1FQ8Gn6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/HD%2Boverlay.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r4nmhXhGLpU/XiOSh17DtWI/AAAAAAAAzWw/mWrG5BGPa2sb30YUNAPGzX95L1FQ8Gn6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/HD%2Boverlay.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<b>18. 114 Half Dome - The Xue Way (VI 5.11d-5.12a A0)</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQrcy4yff_aATT3Al0Wt9nd_laz2DD0k18S6xBPfOgcHBcQq-cV_96iUXjk4u0erCMalN1NMtXcfgWeF-Gr216DYajChpVcYWzrBPl76EVEUM8MlFRxY_RCcKelJLXj2aHXpBYDG3Ku-sc/s1600/Silver.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQrcy4yff_aATT3Al0Wt9nd_laz2DD0k18S6xBPfOgcHBcQq-cV_96iUXjk4u0erCMalN1NMtXcfgWeF-Gr216DYajChpVcYWzrBPl76EVEUM8MlFRxY_RCcKelJLXj2aHXpBYDG3Ku-sc/s640/Silver.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">19. 115 Silver Turret - Direct North Buttress IV 5.11a R 1,400’ </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zwGhvxR7olI/XiOSOscSt2I/AAAAAAAAzWU/m9zOOpeaQ900fUNM_XaZEcTj4l0yUevtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/El%2BCommandante.jpg" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium; font-weight: 400; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; white-space: normal;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zwGhvxR7olI/XiOSOscSt2I/AAAAAAAAzWU/m9zOOpeaQ900fUNM_XaZEcTj4l0yUevtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/El%2BCommandante.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<span id="docs-internal-guid-fa83a85d-7fff-28d1-3f33-d2465c6fb3a9"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">20. 116 </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">El Commandante - Direct West Face III 5.10d R 600’</span></span></div><div id="m_2043942003789819883yiv6449904909ymail_android_signature" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div id="m_2043942003789819883yiv6449904909ymail_android_signature" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: large; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2020</span></span></div><div id="m_2043942003789819883yiv6449904909ymail_android_signature" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div id="m_2043942003789819883yiv6449904909ymail_android_signature"><span><span style="color: black; vertical-align: baseline;"><b style="background-color: white;"><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;">1) 117 Wheeler crest with Richard Shore. 800' 5.11a</div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QU2lxw34aco/X-jNJ2DdgqI/AAAAAAAA4L4/xEOgqkdhLuImgF3Y_pSQdFvy0sXV5BqoACPcBGAsYHg/s4896/DSC_0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3268" data-original-width="4896" height="280" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QU2lxw34aco/X-jNJ2DdgqI/AAAAAAAA4L4/xEOgqkdhLuImgF3Y_pSQdFvy0sXV5BqoACPcBGAsYHg/w418-h280/DSC_0006.jpg" width="418" /></a></div><br /><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;">2) 118 Windy Cliff in Kings Canyon with Brian Prince, Daniel Jeffcoach and Adam Shepperd. 5.11a 1600' (?)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5V3bAv2Wqyg/X-jNnJwP-mI/AAAAAAAA4MA/fgrpr0VtyZcbgLW0rc_mOE7dSyaA2B6JgCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/F5EC3D47-BABB-479F-AA59-B63252B9CC6B.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5V3bAv2Wqyg/X-jNnJwP-mI/AAAAAAAA4MA/fgrpr0VtyZcbgLW0rc_mOE7dSyaA2B6JgCPcBGAsYHg/s320/F5EC3D47-BABB-479F-AA59-B63252B9CC6B.jpeg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T4FRdCwqBSc/X-jNnLb_kZI/AAAAAAAA4MA/H5VXXVzLMpsLfy0NG28JdNV72QSDogxYgCPcBGAsYHg/s3612/C50D198B-09A3-447E-BDFD-4139DEC80AF7.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2646" data-original-width="3612" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T4FRdCwqBSc/X-jNnLb_kZI/AAAAAAAA4MA/H5VXXVzLMpsLfy0NG28JdNV72QSDogxYgCPcBGAsYHg/s320/C50D198B-09A3-447E-BDFD-4139DEC80AF7.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_HaD_4ZHlrE/X-jNnI4pJXI/AAAAAAAA4MA/jsMuFQDPrGobGe9faxcUGJOkyKV0dVXpwCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/D2B176B0-67BF-488B-9E8E-CBDEE3E5F690.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_HaD_4ZHlrE/X-jNnI4pJXI/AAAAAAAA4MA/jsMuFQDPrGobGe9faxcUGJOkyKV0dVXpwCPcBGAsYHg/s320/D2B176B0-67BF-488B-9E8E-CBDEE3E5F690.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2jHT75Zrbjs/X-jNnHxdrwI/AAAAAAAA4MA/zrT8gfeYwYAIZ7W8icsxGAOtQK8MkLvogCPcBGAsYHg/s3843/0ADF15DC-8B49-49FA-95E6-643D6F960D2C.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2901" data-original-width="3843" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2jHT75Zrbjs/X-jNnHxdrwI/AAAAAAAA4MA/zrT8gfeYwYAIZ7W8icsxGAOtQK8MkLvogCPcBGAsYHg/s320/0ADF15DC-8B49-49FA-95E6-643D6F960D2C.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--ZfvyTotxqQ/X-jNnPTh07I/AAAAAAAA4MA/2zSTBUJe_FIG5jmCUnBbi6GFBXFy8NzTQCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/D8CAAF07-A870-49D0-BC40-DA50F788CFE6.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--ZfvyTotxqQ/X-jNnPTh07I/AAAAAAAA4MA/2zSTBUJe_FIG5jmCUnBbi6GFBXFy8NzTQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/D8CAAF07-A870-49D0-BC40-DA50F788CFE6.jpeg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hr6cl2aBAPw/X-jNnNRe1PI/AAAAAAAA4MA/cV4pu5yZMe0PfX92pXTy4QsHjrKD5C5NgCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/5A1ED1B8-9026-4D28-B3E1-F5952C758BF7.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hr6cl2aBAPw/X-jNnNRe1PI/AAAAAAAA4MA/cV4pu5yZMe0PfX92pXTy4QsHjrKD5C5NgCPcBGAsYHg/s320/5A1ED1B8-9026-4D28-B3E1-F5952C758BF7.jpeg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ihCJQ6A7bVk/X-jNnLcI9LI/AAAAAAAA4MA/NVtCfiz55Qcy5UgFIKAbciuzBpM4gZjpQCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/62FDF66D-DA0C-4479-9804-72DBAC9C8EFB.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ihCJQ6A7bVk/X-jNnLcI9LI/AAAAAAAA4MA/NVtCfiz55Qcy5UgFIKAbciuzBpM4gZjpQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/62FDF66D-DA0C-4479-9804-72DBAC9C8EFB.jpeg" /></a></div><br /><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;">3) 119 Locke Rock - Locked and Loaded with Brandon Thau and Brian Prince.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n8ES5ADCGuM/X-jM25zfnLI/AAAAAAAA4Lw/3wCWcwSGPSoKmaxV5WbShH8U4ioPscdSACPcBGAsYHg/s4143/P1023431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4143" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n8ES5ADCGuM/X-jM25zfnLI/AAAAAAAA4Lw/3wCWcwSGPSoKmaxV5WbShH8U4ioPscdSACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1023431.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOg1Y06Feipo0w-6nrwe-Gjab01j2rZhWrnGbi3T4qWv9Yfr3OMFUBmqCyNB8kDmyPSdojipIm5dGLCw8ec7pgjgxXOMJerqF4iDVns6eLDmiwUAVkpO7I22P2PdUq1Nqjd2Vuas-2z8rB/s4898/P1023314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOg1Y06Feipo0w-6nrwe-Gjab01j2rZhWrnGbi3T4qWv9Yfr3OMFUBmqCyNB8kDmyPSdojipIm5dGLCw8ec7pgjgxXOMJerqF4iDVns6eLDmiwUAVkpO7I22P2PdUq1Nqjd2Vuas-2z8rB/s320/P1023314.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-69iT-9roNgc/X-jM2yBLFRI/AAAAAAAA4Lw/whz77JrbqaUbEzB6TMIG9_SuxFnJ7MpMgCPcBGAsYHg/s3482/P1023288.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2893" data-original-width="3482" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-69iT-9roNgc/X-jM2yBLFRI/AAAAAAAA4Lw/whz77JrbqaUbEzB6TMIG9_SuxFnJ7MpMgCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1023288.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AHSqCRzz3Uk/X-jM25g4XpI/AAAAAAAA4Lw/QnaMC7l85fMS6S6jArpYcJoBkZbZa_87QCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1023262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AHSqCRzz3Uk/X-jM25g4XpI/AAAAAAAA4Lw/QnaMC7l85fMS6S6jArpYcJoBkZbZa_87QCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1023262.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-InxK_WUoDK0/X-jM23js5rI/AAAAAAAA4Lw/xzbBsCf6LfYVj8ZcjK9gRNTSUN3ftFpOgCPcBGAsYHg/s3112/P1023257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3112" data-original-width="2075" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-InxK_WUoDK0/X-jM23js5rI/AAAAAAAA4Lw/xzbBsCf6LfYVj8ZcjK9gRNTSUN3ftFpOgCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1023257.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E3KkTff9MUM/X-jM263mVuI/AAAAAAAA4Lw/w9r0vG2h8qIG3bQHrI31b0rRVJLYFqIBgCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1023343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E3KkTff9MUM/X-jM263mVuI/AAAAAAAA4Lw/w9r0vG2h8qIG3bQHrI31b0rRVJLYFqIBgCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1023343.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pv0n58LmmOM/X-jM28zCdPI/AAAAAAAA4Lw/SSX_IwKzlqASkxVF3A2kJVpm_fpQkK1wACPcBGAsYHg/s4717/P1023340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4717" data-original-width="3307" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pv0n58LmmOM/X-jM28zCdPI/AAAAAAAA4Lw/SSX_IwKzlqASkxVF3A2kJVpm_fpQkK1wACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1023340.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;">4) 120 Milestone Mountain <span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">13,641’</span> - Western Divine 750 5.10c <span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">with </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; text-indent: 36pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Chaz Langlier</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oXx7YUL373g/X-jOK5XdCsI/AAAAAAAA4MI/R8l7HH3YntIFHA6ML-z3XdiDXW07W1MVwCPcBGAsYHg/s3763/P1012001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3611" data-original-width="3763" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oXx7YUL373g/X-jOK5XdCsI/AAAAAAAA4MI/R8l7HH3YntIFHA6ML-z3XdiDXW07W1MVwCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rE6nOmg5E5k/X-jOK4qv1PI/AAAAAAAA4MI/mYsX_cUEqdEhvVhCagtLz99L0JeNZm7HwCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rE6nOmg5E5k/X-jOK4qv1PI/AAAAAAAA4MI/mYsX_cUEqdEhvVhCagtLz99L0JeNZm7HwCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012044.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AKnPGsn6yf0/X-jOK6t_jLI/AAAAAAAA4MI/4oURqF40KZU9H8ysKZYkqZRs0hu6QiDxACPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AKnPGsn6yf0/X-jOK6t_jLI/AAAAAAAA4MI/4oURqF40KZU9H8ysKZYkqZRs0hu6QiDxACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012034.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHIj-gNuRBU37Q8EK4-pL_lVnfOfiRtBq2ORoNEPDsNOq_BAP9HLaQKqeHfAkz2Cg2q-skPxsaTe_IgaeexnqTM19Cdb5gJOU0ZD8EpEBQ2y4ipiURoPB0Ql9gk7Yu4gUDTiL3CYEOLDLq/s5472/P1012052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHIj-gNuRBU37Q8EK4-pL_lVnfOfiRtBq2ORoNEPDsNOq_BAP9HLaQKqeHfAkz2Cg2q-skPxsaTe_IgaeexnqTM19Cdb5gJOU0ZD8EpEBQ2y4ipiURoPB0Ql9gk7Yu4gUDTiL3CYEOLDLq/s320/P1012052.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BjMwkdHpvuA/X-jOK6-FgVI/AAAAAAAA4MI/YTIsR-I9R-MeN1sE0dlspqREpDI98fDjACPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BjMwkdHpvuA/X-jOK6-FgVI/AAAAAAAA4MI/YTIsR-I9R-MeN1sE0dlspqREpDI98fDjACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012046.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HbHfmIfPygs/X-jOK1-5kgI/AAAAAAAA4MI/0iC3EnrWcpoECM--HhrlQJ47R3Q24zvbgCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HbHfmIfPygs/X-jOK1-5kgI/AAAAAAAA4MI/0iC3EnrWcpoECM--HhrlQJ47R3Q24zvbgCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012085.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5) 121 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">Trailblazer Wall 13,228 - </span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Fear Inoculum 800 5.10c with </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; text-indent: 36pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Chaz Langlier</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6n-sXKkqBOk/X-jOsCKIilI/AAAAAAAA4MQ/MP19ohenAN8bnNkDgOK7eY8BQLvwHzkrQCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1011960.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6n-sXKkqBOk/X-jOsCKIilI/AAAAAAAA4MQ/MP19ohenAN8bnNkDgOK7eY8BQLvwHzkrQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1011960.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j_0B8Fz9woY/X-jOsJLpOWI/AAAAAAAA4MQ/Ag5WFJw1VLo-_dKz8MYikz92p8YF_OE-QCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j_0B8Fz9woY/X-jOsJLpOWI/AAAAAAAA4MQ/Ag5WFJw1VLo-_dKz8MYikz92p8YF_OE-QCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012199.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u3aYEo-yBI8/X-jOsAG0bFI/AAAAAAAA4MQ/V7hbKtLKcDke7WajYtKYlJaZq8x0xvXlwCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u3aYEo-yBI8/X-jOsAG0bFI/AAAAAAAA4MQ/V7hbKtLKcDke7WajYtKYlJaZq8x0xvXlwCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012225.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yX4gX6WcjZA/X-jOsJls5SI/AAAAAAAA4MQ/-9c3Vg8f_r4_q74t5AT8-qlVQCKejjBpwCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yX4gX6WcjZA/X-jOsJls5SI/AAAAAAAA4MQ/-9c3Vg8f_r4_q74t5AT8-qlVQCKejjBpwCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012230.jpg" /></a></div>6) 122 Thunder Mountain 13,588 - <span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">Thunder Thighs </span>1000 5.7 with <span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tad McCrea</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;">7) 123 Table Mountain <span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">13,632’</span> - <span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pass the Courvoisier (North Pillar)</span> 1000 5.10 with <span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tad McCrea</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XzvzBGJOKdo/X-jPBdcriYI/AAAAAAAA4MY/Ygg8YNMrNHgEnRaXZqXiQwafsIcdSfsKgCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="265" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XzvzBGJOKdo/X-jPBdcriYI/AAAAAAAA4MY/Ygg8YNMrNHgEnRaXZqXiQwafsIcdSfsKgCPcBGAsYHg/w398-h265/P1012210.jpg" width="398" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;">8) 124 <span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mount Corcoran South Pillar - For the Love of Men 1,500 5.11</span> with Derek Field and Connor Chilcott. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9rjDIXvPvFQ/X-jKPYoFhrI/AAAAAAAA4LQ/DZSuxHctVBsr4k1d9kjEe7iPvfJardYhQCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1033691.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" height="281" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9rjDIXvPvFQ/X-jKPYoFhrI/AAAAAAAA4LQ/DZSuxHctVBsr4k1d9kjEe7iPvfJardYhQCPcBGAsYHg/w423-h281/P1033691.jpg" width="423" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoCOZCool5TpBwXMtRdfVvIZw_j00q4gjk569C6awLzz9p_fs6Cq-7xRL6bwlhtWRz6naMPMoawBJB_WDHRA7by1gTxOQ3S6g7jcq03ZBX8cEa0Xrxxe2QzhOesP49gVBzGiRW45b5oXcz/s4898/P1033719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoCOZCool5TpBwXMtRdfVvIZw_j00q4gjk569C6awLzz9p_fs6Cq-7xRL6bwlhtWRz6naMPMoawBJB_WDHRA7by1gTxOQ3S6g7jcq03ZBX8cEa0Xrxxe2QzhOesP49gVBzGiRW45b5oXcz/w263-h395/P1033719.jpg" width="263" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zdd2mcC0WoM/X-jKPXJx27I/AAAAAAAA4LQ/wvc4VYjKXgssB5Su8c4HgOju6vdiOeAPACPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1033748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" height="248" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zdd2mcC0WoM/X-jKPXJx27I/AAAAAAAA4LQ/wvc4VYjKXgssB5Su8c4HgOju6vdiOeAPACPcBGAsYHg/w373-h248/P1033748.jpg" width="373" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q1dyufHdhJQ/X-jKPfvLvGI/AAAAAAAA4LQ/YGgiZmUfT_wnboyCKZoeqNwbKO_VXcJQQCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1033774.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" height="247" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q1dyufHdhJQ/X-jKPfvLvGI/AAAAAAAA4LQ/YGgiZmUfT_wnboyCKZoeqNwbKO_VXcJQQCPcBGAsYHg/w371-h247/P1033774.jpg" width="371" /></a></div><br /><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;">9) 125 Mount Langille - The Prodigy 3,000 5.11b <span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">with Shaun Reed</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;">10) 126 Cyclorama Wall <span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">12,882</span> - FFA of the Rowell/Clevenger/Fiddler route - <span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">Extraterrestrial Vortex 5.12a with Shaun Reed</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q1n_1yGM8LU/X-jQEF8qIvI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/MaRsOlfk40QYZcKeOpOszaD4K3pR4HbCACPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1012852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q1n_1yGM8LU/X-jQEF8qIvI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/MaRsOlfk40QYZcKeOpOszaD4K3pR4HbCACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012852.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WqbWGLlx0sU/X-jQEGmP2pI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/EsdXyGJ7-78iLyrg2uG_xmkP0D2tdjBJgCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012862.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WqbWGLlx0sU/X-jQEGmP2pI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/EsdXyGJ7-78iLyrg2uG_xmkP0D2tdjBJgCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012862.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-42OBMsTiVAk/X-jQEJjeXMI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/XXesnQSYzRcxUR05mqDmNpJOqErF5-OJQCPcBGAsYHg/s4607/P1012865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4607" data-original-width="3071" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-42OBMsTiVAk/X-jQEJjeXMI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/XXesnQSYzRcxUR05mqDmNpJOqErF5-OJQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012865.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-stxNYaAPQfM/X-jQEAO2foI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/5uGa86DAZjYCoF7N4pGhT3hNxns5049PQCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012887.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-stxNYaAPQfM/X-jQEAO2foI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/5uGa86DAZjYCoF7N4pGhT3hNxns5049PQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012887.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ND93m1uuL5s/X-jQEIq5u3I/AAAAAAAA4Mk/8bF1gSbFRi0TXg_lDuOYiHqBKH0KSnbtQCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ND93m1uuL5s/X-jQEIq5u3I/AAAAAAAA4Mk/8bF1gSbFRi0TXg_lDuOYiHqBKH0KSnbtQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012898.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NSF9_rHU7p8/X-jQEF8d00I/AAAAAAAA4Mk/qpiPi7gpFZIs_Mp7rermJNkCzmR6nYaEACPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NSF9_rHU7p8/X-jQEF8d00I/AAAAAAAA4Mk/qpiPi7gpFZIs_Mp7rermJNkCzmR6nYaEACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012894.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AViWbXFQVfY/X-jQEGauBSI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/9jNY27xJspUH7qXAI3lmo2st1QcFIkzYwCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1012755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AViWbXFQVfY/X-jQEGauBSI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/9jNY27xJspUH7qXAI3lmo2st1QcFIkzYwCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012755.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Langille<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YW5u8LCZV2s/X-jQECx-C4I/AAAAAAAA4Mk/C41LPVakzh84t2WffD3ik4Pli07XJb_sQCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012965.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YW5u8LCZV2s/X-jQECx-C4I/AAAAAAAA4Mk/C41LPVakzh84t2WffD3ik4Pli07XJb_sQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012965.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WuoYSVDJIWc/X-jQENcglUI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/_N2h9PiEtTAg4uzRfmDjHrNJV1XsZxnSQCPcBGAsYHg/s4458/P1013076.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4458" data-original-width="3260" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WuoYSVDJIWc/X-jQENcglUI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/_N2h9PiEtTAg4uzRfmDjHrNJV1XsZxnSQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1013076.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-813a6Bmh2_U/X-jQEHgSYDI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/Wha1Am14y_EubVduqzjk2fsE9L8ZG1MigCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1013089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-813a6Bmh2_U/X-jQEHgSYDI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/Wha1Am14y_EubVduqzjk2fsE9L8ZG1MigCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1013089.jpg" /></a></div>Cyclorama<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-npc8DF3yAK4/X-jQEBSYeiI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/hWuBW5EjUao65RilakuQ3P51VXWXEgZAQCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1023159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-npc8DF3yAK4/X-jQEBSYeiI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/hWuBW5EjUao65RilakuQ3P51VXWXEgZAQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1023159.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J78l7GVRbhU/X-jQEEVpytI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/JPmIEhTsxyQlstZa8OiMA1vNtR1Y3yVaACPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1023167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J78l7GVRbhU/X-jQEEVpytI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/JPmIEhTsxyQlstZa8OiMA1vNtR1Y3yVaACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1023167.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DPdcbSTG9fU/X-jQEEFa3LI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/QgR3PKDBr2kazIStD51k3sQci64Zy5XYACPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1023207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DPdcbSTG9fU/X-jQEEFa3LI/AAAAAAAA4Mk/QgR3PKDBr2kazIStD51k3sQci64Zy5XYACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1023207.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbejj_e4uvNJIViTD-lm8DizeyAwQS9MnzuPQVH4j6JkYng5pM1Cdcf0k2x5DwBAPPVg8YlGejrTg3XrcmfBEZzX0T4UAO743ZCDhyphenhyphen1PVJjbEdJCeOBDLiuA1PzcG4FEEM7GZr9zCcQ2iP/s5472/P1023215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbejj_e4uvNJIViTD-lm8DizeyAwQS9MnzuPQVH4j6JkYng5pM1Cdcf0k2x5DwBAPPVg8YlGejrTg3XrcmfBEZzX0T4UAO743ZCDhyphenhyphen1PVJjbEdJCeOBDLiuA1PzcG4FEEM7GZr9zCcQ2iP/s320/P1023215.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;">11) 127 Bubbs Creek Wall - First Free Ascent of Panda Express with Christian Black 2,000 5.11B </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HreKaE8SxCw/X-jQ_2x1_pI/AAAAAAAA4Ms/4wIUbz41XCI4xuiZMBoJXtjcnKQPj4QeACPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1030828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HreKaE8SxCw/X-jQ_2x1_pI/AAAAAAAA4Ms/4wIUbz41XCI4xuiZMBoJXtjcnKQPj4QeACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1030828.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0polGCK-KZg/X-jQ_3nQi0I/AAAAAAAA4Ms/frvRQlsVbo4vLhv0nxHqomadW0Qt3EF7wCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1030860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0polGCK-KZg/X-jQ_3nQi0I/AAAAAAAA4Ms/frvRQlsVbo4vLhv0nxHqomadW0Qt3EF7wCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1030860.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YIBEjyZgEYI/X-jQ_7fT0PI/AAAAAAAA4Ms/qpXbcN9eXjglIngQYF_DanvqAZ5HZPLGACPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1030792.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YIBEjyZgEYI/X-jQ_7fT0PI/AAAAAAAA4Ms/qpXbcN9eXjglIngQYF_DanvqAZ5HZPLGACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1030792.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WdJZZ_sM0JU/X-jQ_0kMp4I/AAAAAAAA4Ms/bXAdxsPxiJ4itWFPv_FM6E1PlwXjSPIiQCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1030748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WdJZZ_sM0JU/X-jQ_0kMp4I/AAAAAAAA4Ms/bXAdxsPxiJ4itWFPv_FM6E1PlwXjSPIiQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1030748.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eIrj92lUAts/X-jQ_04hAaI/AAAAAAAA4Ms/YnyamL3xLdcHrkz6QiEqNHYugPAEPKyHACPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1030739.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eIrj92lUAts/X-jQ_04hAaI/AAAAAAAA4Ms/YnyamL3xLdcHrkz6QiEqNHYugPAEPKyHACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1030739.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yPrc_9wdEV8/X-jQ__CIcmI/AAAAAAAA4Ms/A8OwJO7xDd0x-uj6e8T-DYdKOtZIaQf-gCPcBGAsYHg/s4303/P1030711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4303" data-original-width="2869" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yPrc_9wdEV8/X-jQ__CIcmI/AAAAAAAA4Ms/A8OwJO7xDd0x-uj6e8T-DYdKOtZIaQf-gCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1030711.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUOwpzMwUuMx6XfCDUnuyaz3smPtByKbHaqDQZ3jXgjE5GK8qWrSdiEl-6Xo-z67dG5DN5kMaZRJroDPQZzA95_YrY9GImatNRMu20hQ8EkVuW6sawGj_O_GHC63-KTuXDnJ5_Ej7QwYe7/s4898/P1030703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUOwpzMwUuMx6XfCDUnuyaz3smPtByKbHaqDQZ3jXgjE5GK8qWrSdiEl-6Xo-z67dG5DN5kMaZRJroDPQZzA95_YrY9GImatNRMu20hQ8EkVuW6sawGj_O_GHC63-KTuXDnJ5_Ej7QwYe7/s320/P1030703.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;">12) 128 Delphina Tower - <span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">Dee-Bees Rib Direct 1,000 5.10c</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">No pics. Phone RIP</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;">13) Mount Whitney - Hairline C2+ 5.10d (First winter ascent) with Chris Koppl</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H8KrdgzFoXA/X-jLFUxjNLI/AAAAAAAA4LY/ibjgYk51GVkG-z8LQ0jVWNbsD30DprJowCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1011227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H8KrdgzFoXA/X-jLFUxjNLI/AAAAAAAA4LY/ibjgYk51GVkG-z8LQ0jVWNbsD30DprJowCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1011227.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hhFuetfq94M/X-jLFUTUJwI/AAAAAAAA4LY/WirZKOwBObsNmeHg_MU8CkN_1LCEJQ0YACPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1011118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hhFuetfq94M/X-jLFUTUJwI/AAAAAAAA4LY/WirZKOwBObsNmeHg_MU8CkN_1LCEJQ0YACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1011118.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jSoEX5B5UuQ/X-jLFc8UiYI/AAAAAAAA4LY/CzXQZK_OMdAuoKOiqyOG_KJT_WHZPyfkgCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1011104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jSoEX5B5UuQ/X-jLFc8UiYI/AAAAAAAA4LY/CzXQZK_OMdAuoKOiqyOG_KJT_WHZPyfkgCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1011104.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wBfdPKn-jBI/X-jLFXsJK3I/AAAAAAAA4LY/euRwJj01t4o2VhJk4LIBdYuGDvjocePtQCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1011072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wBfdPKn-jBI/X-jLFXsJK3I/AAAAAAAA4LY/euRwJj01t4o2VhJk4LIBdYuGDvjocePtQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1011072.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jYbV0Il1KQU/X-jLFSUVFFI/AAAAAAAA4LY/nJ6CkC_qOoM5ugGQrRtVW6riPqKxkD3fQCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1011065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jYbV0Il1KQU/X-jLFSUVFFI/AAAAAAAA4LY/nJ6CkC_qOoM5ugGQrRtVW6riPqKxkD3fQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1011065.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: normal;"><br /></div></b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G8XkdgA5ySw/X-jLiFVP8uI/AAAAAAAA4Lg/hPIT2qsFLAASd2s5QfAoZ2sqr8Mr5uJ0ACPcBGAsYHg/s4493/P1011204-Pano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4493" data-original-width="3560" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G8XkdgA5ySw/X-jLiFVP8uI/AAAAAAAA4Lg/hPIT2qsFLAASd2s5QfAoZ2sqr8Mr5uJ0ACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1011204-Pano.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8mWmizXSHpo/X-jLiI92XqI/AAAAAAAA4Lg/_EkSiYlS0M0m0D0KxIuD0EFZaawNQ1BQACPcBGAsYHg/s4543/DSC_0317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3521" data-original-width="4543" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8mWmizXSHpo/X-jLiI92XqI/AAAAAAAA4Lg/_EkSiYlS0M0m0D0KxIuD0EFZaawNQ1BQACPcBGAsYHg/s320/DSC_0317.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O8aRmhw_Y8w/X-jLiDIre6I/AAAAAAAA4Lg/MQklxpWt9FsNGBx_hSdhUwbwrf-ir3MwACPcBGAsYHg/s4898/Overlay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O8aRmhw_Y8w/X-jLiDIre6I/AAAAAAAA4Lg/MQklxpWt9FsNGBx_hSdhUwbwrf-ir3MwACPcBGAsYHg/s320/Overlay.jpg" /></a></div><br /></span></span></div><div id="m_2043942003789819883yiv6449904909ymail_android_signature"><span><span style="color: black; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: white;"><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-weight: bold;">14) 129 <span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">El Comandante Turret - </span><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Honey Badger Experience 2,000 5.11c with Daniel Jeffcoach</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VOaHC3cxr0M/X-jMZD8SjOI/AAAAAAAA4Lo/xlWrcmSItBQx6uHHPWgj94lWbzfArbwTACPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VOaHC3cxr0M/X-jMZD8SjOI/AAAAAAAA4Lo/xlWrcmSItBQx6uHHPWgj94lWbzfArbwTACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012368.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4w0GgdTtJrE/X-jMZPJ0EiI/AAAAAAAA4Lo/gFqBFQJq3jkYws-4RJx1hXLLHI5zqcqagCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4w0GgdTtJrE/X-jMZPJ0EiI/AAAAAAAA4Lo/gFqBFQJq3jkYws-4RJx1hXLLHI5zqcqagCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012309.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V9xKUA61WWM/X-jMZNTmFyI/AAAAAAAA4Lo/x70-qXVVTsAaUkF6AIEmEi9cSYhOYUxvwCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V9xKUA61WWM/X-jMZNTmFyI/AAAAAAAA4Lo/x70-qXVVTsAaUkF6AIEmEi9cSYhOYUxvwCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012304.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2rOOo0qTpjI/X-jMZCLICMI/AAAAAAAA4Lo/fEb1A6RQszMKT4CNGV2jHxG_fhDrFC3dgCPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012293.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2rOOo0qTpjI/X-jMZCLICMI/AAAAAAAA4Lo/fEb1A6RQszMKT4CNGV2jHxG_fhDrFC3dgCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012293.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gT1gwOE8t90/X-jMZKSKmqI/AAAAAAAA4Lo/9U9Q83rBa6ILqfz8d9mYGL2mZ3OHqzhTACPcBGAsYHg/s5472/P1012318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gT1gwOE8t90/X-jMZKSKmqI/AAAAAAAA4Lo/9U9Q83rBa6ILqfz8d9mYGL2mZ3OHqzhTACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1012318.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNoj2W2niafOfbqLleqOuDQzGopVGcziWWNU0WfZEv0NDcYlZT6tvPb7fp4PLfp8DQZlwMpCrgdG9-5OTncJfmcOXlVhQdHVi0aNl2qf_N79ka_FPITm6nr_16yGvQeaoUr6vGWAVaF3eX/s5472/P1012374.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNoj2W2niafOfbqLleqOuDQzGopVGcziWWNU0WfZEv0NDcYlZT6tvPb7fp4PLfp8DQZlwMpCrgdG9-5OTncJfmcOXlVhQdHVi0aNl2qf_N79ka_FPITm6nr_16yGvQeaoUr6vGWAVaF3eX/s320/P1012374.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>15) 130 Thor Peak - </b></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">Truncated Buttress FFA with Roger Putnam. FA was by </span><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">William Putnam and Fred Beckey.</span></b></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhym3vE4BfLWO68ewCxjIecJavFX_iAYyd0S0Cll9Oq2LCu9bvd-0KeS1L_4YqD2kOK7oyryk9NkaZStuAI_M7iqJZT_iGe2u__hUNLwulsYiQGA9KY4Sg-ZGSLnLnQ8jKeXuCPTp1bj4wO/s4898/P1011591.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhym3vE4BfLWO68ewCxjIecJavFX_iAYyd0S0Cll9Oq2LCu9bvd-0KeS1L_4YqD2kOK7oyryk9NkaZStuAI_M7iqJZT_iGe2u__hUNLwulsYiQGA9KY4Sg-ZGSLnLnQ8jKeXuCPTp1bj4wO/s320/P1011591.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-AjVh8RoossyVRB4WU2VZmKsNgBq5fwcQsJc8-Q7Q9ALr0FdY_nEyP7i1478QT5H8HX-k_RWYpXZDvXyuUKQQM5H8KSGZ0s5DSoZNugn6X483kWvbBLs9w8NjAYl0BkDer11Zgks_AWJe/s4898/P1011614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-AjVh8RoossyVRB4WU2VZmKsNgBq5fwcQsJc8-Q7Q9ALr0FdY_nEyP7i1478QT5H8HX-k_RWYpXZDvXyuUKQQM5H8KSGZ0s5DSoZNugn6X483kWvbBLs9w8NjAYl0BkDer11Zgks_AWJe/s320/P1011614.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n5znP3vQ2UQ/X-jR8FoJP3I/AAAAAAAA4M4/guUCaHKlCA4XH39UzmLDw9WY4xNLBvPtACPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1011612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n5znP3vQ2UQ/X-jR8FoJP3I/AAAAAAAA4M4/guUCaHKlCA4XH39UzmLDw9WY4xNLBvPtACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1011612.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x2suNYoSVAw/X-jR8KTrmEI/AAAAAAAA4M4/sPm_Ej8JBOs67Xc44S9dj1iWSnJSZX6YQCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1011619.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x2suNYoSVAw/X-jR8KTrmEI/AAAAAAAA4M4/sPm_Ej8JBOs67Xc44S9dj1iWSnJSZX6YQCPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1011619.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0_CJf796Dsw/X-jR8F2NsaI/AAAAAAAA4M4/SSC9-R8-5UEWIEjyfODEUo5wbyC-_tdKACPcBGAsYHg/s4898/P1011626.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0_CJf796Dsw/X-jR8F2NsaI/AAAAAAAA4M4/SSC9-R8-5UEWIEjyfODEUo5wbyC-_tdKACPcBGAsYHg/s320/P1011626.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></b></div></span><b style="background-color: white;"><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">16) Ribbon Falls Amphitheater - Rusalka 1000 A3+ with Chris Koppl (work in progress)</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></div></b></span></span></div>
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-62796445437869493802019-10-17T13:02:00.000-07:002019-10-17T13:02:01.316-07:00Mount Watkins - First Ascent of THE DIKE<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span data-offset-key="49n5j-0-0" style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span data-text="true" style="font-family: inherit;">Day before going up on Zodiac, Brian Prince, Chris Koppl </span></span><span data-offset-key="49n5j-4-0" style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span data-text="true" style="font-family: inherit;">and I went back up to finish a route Chris and I started a few years back on Mount Watkins. It is a crazy dike that overhangs for pretty much the whole way from where it shoots off from Escape From Freedom. In fact I remember how Bruce Morris</span></span><span data-offset-key="49n5j-6-0" style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span data-text="true" style="font-family: inherit;"> told me to check out this dike and that it would make for a crazy route. It is probably the wildest feature the three of us ever climbed on and I hope I can be strong enough to free climb the whole thing, one day. From big powerful moves, to techy sharp crimps on perfect rock, the climbing is simply amazing.</span></span><br />
<span data-offset-key="49n5j-6-0" style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span data-text="true" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span data-offset-key="49n5j-6-0" style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span data-text="true" style="font-family: inherit;">Putting this route up was very difficult because of its traversing and overhanging nature. 99% of the time we climb something ground up - starting from the bottom and climbing up, placing bolts from stances, if needed. As we wanted to make a worthy free climb, we decided to go top down and see if it is even possible, as GU approach would involve 1) a huge bolt ladder or 2) bolt, a shit ton of hooking, bolt, repeat, but we needed to figure out best clipping holds and if it would be worth bolting the feature in the first place, there are is no way to drill from stances on this dike. Yes, it would be possible from hooks, but as I said pretty much the whole 1000 ft dike overhangs and it would suck to put up three pitches and encounter a totally blank spot. If it was more reasonable to go GU it would be amazing as we wouldn't need to put so much pure labor into it. Two years ago, Chris and I spent days working individual pitches on fixed ropes, placing chalk marks for possible bolt placements, then switching and climbing the same pitches again to see if the placements make sense to the other person, then do it again. Because pretty much every 6 feet involves at least a 5.10 to 5.11 move and some moves we were only imagining, the process was taking so much energy that in the end of the season we close to drowned in a thunderstorm/downpour and bailed on this project returning to finally completing it from the bottom to the top, having at least one of us being able to perform each individual moves free, yet totally a redpoint. It is unclear if some of the moves will be reasonable at 5.12 to people with less than a huge ape index. Chris at around 6'4 is able to do a few big moves Brian and I could not do, yet at least. We are not short at 6'2 and 6ft tall, maybe we had bad beta, but who knows?? Hope the route will go all free in the future for us, but I am 100% sure that if not for us, it will go free for someone much stronger. Though we hope to complete our prozh before it is tried by other climbers. :)</span></span><br />
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-71928547750061036932019-07-09T18:13:00.004-07:002019-07-09T18:25:01.337-07:00North Dome: First Ascent of the Lucid Dream (V 5.11 A2)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span data-offset-key="akli0-0-0" style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span data-text="true">In April, at about 11:30pm I received a text from Richard Leversee</span></span><span data-offset-key="akli0-2-0" style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span data-text="true"> "It's the straightest, longest, most direct line up the center of "the El Cap of King's Canyon! And it is in your back yard with an easy approach! Call in sick...go tomorrow!" A few minutes later, "You gotta ask yourself..."How am I going to feel reading someone else's TR on how amazing the First Ascent of this killer line was?" He had a point. He brought it up about a year prior. One of the reasons I was likely subconsciously ignoring this beautiful feature was because it would obviously take hard work, and a part of me was intimidated by the potential of a long project, especially after The Emperor on Bubbs Creek Wall took over 20 days to work out...but dreamy lines like that are special, don't get climbed too often and are worth the effort. </span></span></span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="akli0-2-0" style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span data-text="true"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Richard is a true legend when it comes to climbing difficult, long and mostly free routes. He was one of the pioneers of difficult free climbing in the backcountry and established or was first to free climb some of the most inspiring walls in the Sierra, including iconic peaks like the Angels Wings, Castle Rock Spire, Tehipite Dome, Bubbs Creek Wall, many routes in the Needles, and on the above mentioned North Dome. </span></span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">Even though he does not climb any longer, his level of excitement is contagious and the fact that instead of talking down to every other climber, which is the common online theme, he actually shares the routes in his 'black book' speaks volumes about the man's character. Although, I did not skip work and went the following day, I could not ignore his call to arms and fortunately was able to recruit my good friend Daniel to join me on a recon trip. Daniel and I tried to establish a route on North Dome once before, but were shut down. Last time we climbed together was about six month ago. That day he broke both his ankles. Being far from the road, up a difficult approach which involved scrambling and a river crossing, I immediately said he should use his InReach device to call search and rescue. Instead he put in hours of work crawling down a steep hill, rapelling, crossing a raging river (with our assistance) and crawling back up a steep poison oak infested hill. I was truly impressed and realized Daniel was one of the toughest humans I have met. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">When we approached our intended route, we were delighted to find good crack climbing on first few pitches. It was so straight forward and good that I expected to find evidence from previous passage, but it never showed up. That day ended with me aiding a pitch for about 3 hours. It involved extensive hooking, beaking, some free climbing and placement of two bolts. Even though we realized the climbing was not gonna go all free, 95% of it was and the quality was great, so we both were psyched to return.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The return was humbling and inspiring. We climbed three pitches higher and found more of the same - really good rock and fun free climbing over variable terrain. Above us was a steep wall of rock that we no longer had the time to climb, as it was getting dark and it looked like it would take significant bolting to overcome, if trying a direct line up the arete, as planned. We could have bailed right and into the old Frost route, about 50 feet to our right, but it wouldn't be as aesthetic or challenging as the steep buttress. We descended in the dark, I drove home and slept for at least two hours before I had Pediatric Advanced Life Support class. Thanks to coffee and being decent at suffering, I didn't only pass, but only missed one question on the written test.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">We came back for our fourth attempt to climb North Dome in early July. This time we met before dawn and approached to the base before the sun hit. It was a strategic move to allow us enough time to tackle the upper wall and prevent us from getting overheated. I was imagining we will melt in the sun, but although it was warm, the breeze created close to perfect conditions. As usual, climbing with Daniel was a pleasure and we moved up the wall fairly quickly. Likely because we already climbed these pitches a couple times and knew what to do. At our high point, to my surprise I found the steep buttress fairly featured and instead of placing about a dozen bolts, as I imagined, I was able to get away with 5 or 6 in the 45M stretch. There were many positive holds and no looseness at all. Richard was right, if I read about someone else making this ascent I'd be green with envy. :) </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">It seemed like we were close to the top with plenty of daylight so instead of merging into the Frost route we took a steep corner, right of it, for a fully independent finish. This finish ended up being much harder than it seemed. Steep, pumpy crack climbing with a few flakes that are exciting to grab when you know no other human has pulled on them prior. It must have especially exciting for Daniel, who broke his ankles a little over a year ago, when a hold broke and he clipped a small stance. We did top out. </span>Magically<span style="font-family: inherit;"> I didn't call in sick to work the following day and Richard was even more excited to hear about us finally succeeding than anyone else I told. Because it was his idea and a dream line, we gave him the honor of naming it - the Lucid Dream. Very fitting as the following day I wasn't sure if I was dreaming or not, I surely should have been! A huge thanks to Richard and Daniel for participating in this proj and contributing a great experience to my life. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">PS: I tried to propose "We did it for some Dick" for the route's name, but it was shut down by all. :)</span></div>
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The Lucid Dream (V 5.11 A2)</div>
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Rack: Doubles to #3 camalot, single #4. Hooks. 2-3 sm to med beaks. </div>
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P1 5.8</div>
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P2 5.10</div>
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P3 5.11</div>
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P4 5.10 A2</div>
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P5 5.10a A2</div>
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P6 5.10a or 5.10d/11a depending on variation</div>
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P7 5.10b-ish</div>
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P8 5.11</div>
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P9 5.11</div>
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-12898132450765143452019-04-13T10:33:00.001-07:002019-04-13T11:36:04.190-07:00Lone Pine Peak - Winter Chimney (3,000 WI3 M4) Free Solo<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><strong style="background-color: white; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">"What distresses me is to see that human genius has limitations, and human stupidity has none."</strong><span style="background-color: white;">—A. Dumas</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">As I pulled in to a gas station close to my home in Visalia, CA I noticed a man throwing up close to the dumpster a few hundred feet away. He looked to be in his 40s, was wearing a colorful dress up shirt, tight leather pants and white shoes I could see from a mile away. All of a sudden he made a noise similar to one I'd imagine a bull to make after getting shot in the stomach. Even though I grew up in San Francisco, home to one of the largest homeless populations in the country, had exciting teenage years, worked in the ER for the last 2 years and thought that by now I would be exposed to all sorts of </span>buffoonery, what came next shocked me. The guy begun to take off his leather pants! If you can imagine wearing a tight latex condom covering your lower body, you would understand it would be difficult to take off if sober, especially if the condom wasn't as stretchy, yes? Now imagine a drunk clown covered in vomit doing so. It seemed like a job for several sober individuals, not him! After the initial thought of wtf, I wondered 'where are his friends?' 'Why is he so wasted on a Sunday night in Visalia, at this random gas station?' While I enjoyed the show for much longer than it took to fill my gas tank, the dude managed to expose his ass, take a shit and fall over in the vicinity of his vomit, still half wearing his leather pants. All the two other people at the gas station were entertained and though wanting to see where it goes, I knew it was close to 9PM and I had a long drive to Whitney Portal and a big climb tomorrow. I wasn't particularly rested after returning from Chalten, working several 12 hour shifts in a row and didn't actually know if the idea of onsight free soloing one of the most difficult mixed routes in the Sierra in such state is actually dumber than what I witnessed at the gas station. The worst case for the gas station dumbass, are IV fluids in the ER where I work. Me on the other hand, can end up in a body bag. No more climbing, no first world problem whining, no netflix and chill, no nothing. Closed casket. If I believed in afterlife, maybe I'd be ok with this option, but....and so I went.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After getting to Lone Pine around 1am, I didn't get much sleep, yet woke up way later than I should have. At 7:30am I drank some not warm coffee, ate snacks and left the car at 8. Reading the report about the first ascent of the Winter Chimney a few days later I realized the FA party woke up at 10:30PM, meaning I was either very late or very early. Whatever the case is, I walked up the road, below a large south facing wall and up the avy tracks on the south face. Earlier start would allow easier travel as the snow was getting softer, but at least I saw where I was going, that should help right? After several hours of post holing and dry tooling over a rock band that would be 5.7 in climbing shoes, I hiked and hiked and hiked till I was about a thousand feet above the spot where I was supposed to cut off right. I realized that I was going up the original Winter Route couloir. So I considered going up that original route or bailing. Neither options had me as excited as the Winter Chimney, so I down-climbed and turned to the right couloir. By then, I was alternating between punching through knee and hip deep in places. Slowly I got to the base some time in the afternoon. I was afraid to look at the clock because if I saw something like 3pm I would have to turn around. The technical bulk of the route is only 6 pitches, so I decided I will likely be able to climb it in a couple of hours at most, as I am not pitching anything out. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">First pitch was a nice wi3- or 2+ as advertised but the 2nd had rotten snow above the chimney which did not look like it would support any weight at all. To the right I scoped a crack system that seemed maybe doable and connecting to the ice above the corner, up above. To do a first ascent on a free solo is not something I was planning on, but I told myself that I can always try to down-climb if I have to. I did have a 6mm tagline and a few cams in case I felt it was too difficult to climb down. I climbed a few moves of sketchy ice to a stance below the crack system and executed a set of delicate moves to get established. It felt m4ish and the climbing turned out to be really good. Axe and hand jamming up a nice crack. If I had climbing shoes, I'd be able to get nice foot jams, but ice climbing boots did not do as well. Topping it out I enjoyed more easy walking and climbed some more ice to the M3 overhang, which was chocked with rotten ice. Climbing without being belayed through rotten ice was fairly hairy, as I had to avoid most of it and stem out on little edges. It all worked out and I continued to a wild squeeze chimney that was capped by a very exposed M4 overhang, with more sketchy ice over the lip. Using rock climbing shoes would help me a lot here. The first winter ascent party had the leader change into rock climbing shoes to climb the upper part (crux overhang) yet rated it M4. I got this detail after reading the report about the first winter ascent. Having the M4 rating on the pitch, I expected they rated it as such after drytooling it, but it wasn't the case. In any case, a friend of mine climbed the route a few weeks earlier and reported not changing into rock shoes, but he reported much better ice on the route than I encountered. A few weeks made a big difference and after I got above the chimney and below the big overhang, I sat there for a while trying to figure out a sequence of moves that I had to make. I could not afford to fall there. Don't want to make it more dramatic than it was, but it felt more difficult and insecure when I climbed to and through the overhang and I wouldn't do it if I knew how insecure it was gonna be. After getting through, I felt like I won a world series, a superbowl and a lottery at the same time. Staying alive feels good! I wasn't totally done with the actual climbing and the corner above had nothing resembling solid ice, so I continued to dry tool for the last pitch and when I topped out the route, I saw large dark clouds and precipitation above Mount Langley, over the canyon to the south. With only about an hour and a half of daylight left, I hurried up the slope, as getting down was gonna take time.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Stumbling over soft snow, I was getting worked breaking trail. Occasionally punching through close to my hip. The descent took forever, even though I mostly found my way alright, as I have done the descent last year. One route finding error send me over a steep drop off, using an established rap station, which led me to set up two more raps down a vertical wall step. The most annoying part was punching through every step of the way back to the car, where I arrived around 9:30PM. Much later than anticipated...the guy puking in the parking lot would have a good laugh at my foolishness. </span><br />
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-54994679474770131892019-01-07T10:26:00.001-08:002019-01-11T07:54:39.832-08:00Cerro Torre; Merely An Attempt (Jan 2017)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>This climb took place a few years ago, during the season many dubbed "the worst in the last dozen years." It felt like a magnificent triumph and a frightening failure, mixed in the same bowl, with a dose of type 2.5 fun, glimpses of natural beauty, two cups of rain, a tablespoon of knee deep trail-breaking, a teaspoon of 100 MPH wind gusts, cooked for four days on minimal sleep. Even though we were ambushed by a storm fifty meters below the true summit, the experience stands out as one of my favorite climbs because we worked well as a unit in face of constant flow of adversity, making rational decisions under stress and above all, surviving. Such experiences are what I hoped to find in the fringe world of Alpinism many years ago and a huge reason I picked up the ice tools in the first place, transitioning from a hiker. Only during journeys into hostile environments one may get a glimpse of a warrior they may have been if they lived in the days of the Samurai. Along with a meditative state of mind, concentration on one thing and one thing only because thinking about the politics while soloing or climbing loose runouts in the alpine may have a sad conclusion. Some people run ultras, some lift thousands of pounds, cycle hundreds of miles in a day, some climb mountains. All these activities involve pain and turn into journeys that force you to dismiss conventional mediocrity, leading to new appreciation of </b></span></span><b style="color: #333333; font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif; text-align: left;">close people and </b><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>everyday comforts we take for granted. Some of these experiences are hard to relay with words, impossible to repeat, for a huge majority such experiences will never become much more than the product of the imagination and I don't know if at this point the memory of this climb is at least partially a delusion, but why would I want it any other way?</b></span></span><b style="color: #333333; font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif; text-align: left;"> </b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">The least rational decision of all was to attempt the climb of Cerro Torre - one of the most imposing peaks on Earth - in a 24 hour weather clearing, that was supposed to come after a few decent hours and a day long storm. It was followed by a slammer storm to close the brief clearing. To no surprise, we were the only team attempting the peak, which made the huge relief of the ice cap seem that much larger and intimidating. Being alone, in one of the fiercest places on earth makes you feel even more insignificant as you ponder about mortality and meaning of life. To get to the base we hiked, climbed and descended to camp in intermittent, rain, snow fall, high winds and a whiteout. Same approach to the West side of the Torres takes the huge majority of climbers attempting the peak two days in good conditions - we pushed it in one. Otherwise we would never get there in time for the clearing we aimed for. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">Guidebook and photo overlays we saw online make the environment seem fairly straight forward. You get to the other side, descent a bit and make a camp. So let me describe the approach as it really is - hike 10km (a couple of hours) to a huge lake on a popular trail - easy. A tyrolean traverse across a raging river will take you to the other side of the pond. Enjoy the trail for another hour and a half or so, do a few loose descents down some old sketchy ropes before you find your way on to a dry glacier. This dry glacier has hundreds of little streams that are large enough that finding a crossing over them is not an easy task and if you don't clear the jump over the raging river below, you will likely die. A little further down, climb piles of loose talus to Niponino. Most climbers reach this camp in 5-9 hours (depending on fitness level and the amount of gear they have stashed) and consider it to be a fairly difficult approach. Because we were going to the West side of the Torre, the difficulty was doubled, as we made our way further down the valley, broke trail up a complicated glacier, moving up towards the col. To get to the col we soloed steep steps of ice with large back packs, through windy whiteout. On the other side, we were unsure where to go, as the amount of terrain in front of you is overwhelming. With no visible mountains to figure out where the Cerro Torre really is, it was hard to make decisions of where to go or how to get there, as there seemed to be multiple options and multiple reasons why those options would not work out. Steep cliffs, big drop offs, fields of crevasses. It is a whole different world out there. A world we wanted to experience for ourselves on slightly different terms, yet at this point we had to figure out how to get to where we want to be, not wish for a miracle.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><b><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">"</span><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">Over the last four decades I have climbed on all seven continents.</span></b></i><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><i><b> During that time it became apparent to me that Cerro Torre was the most magical mountain that I would ever encounter," </b></i>wrote Jim Donini, one of the most accomplished mountain climbers I have met and was honored to go climbing with. Years ago, before meeting him, I read the article in which Jim labeled Cerro Torre as "the most magical mountain," did more research and was stunned by the perfect challenge it offers to a mountaineer, especially after the chopping of the Compressor route. </span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">A long rugged approach to a place without cell phone service, no organized search and rescue teams, nor a major hospital anywhere close to little village of Chalten. Steep granite walls capped with vertical to overhanging ice mushroom coated with a layer of soft rime. A mountaineer hoping to climb this magnificent peak by its easiest route would have to be in top notch physical shape, have the ability to climb difficult ice (WI5), mixed terrain which could vary from M4 to M7 and mental toughness to dig a way up terrain I now could best describe as vertical cotton candy. Of course, when the conditions are great, which they are once in four to five years, these tunnels are icy enough to support pickets or ice screws and are already dug out by teams who climbed the peak previously. In fact, when the conditions are perceived as good by the majority, there are many teams going up. I have heard stories of such ascents - parties trailing ropes for the other parties below them. If the point of the Compressor Route chopping was rising to the peak's challenge, top roping the more difficult pitches of the Ragni and following a broken trail did not seem like a way up our party would enjoy, thus it influenced our decision of trying the route in marginal weather. Along with the attitude of "We climbed the Fitz Roy in a 20 hour clearing, so why not try?!"</span><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "georgia" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">But Torre isn't like anything else on Earth, and even when the notorious Compressor route was in place, the peak defeated many legendary mountaineers, including the above mentioned Jim Donini, who has done the first ascent of the Torre Egger. Torre Egger, is lower and visually not as impressive as the Torre towering above it, yet it is in fact a more difficult summit to reach. The Compressor Route, was not only a big bolt ladder, it was a climb that defeated, many of the most prominent climbers of the day, who would repeat it over, and over, and over again, hoping to reach the elusive summit. Stories of their epics surely felt close to our reality as we watched the updraft of wind push our ropes above our heads. "Will we find a place to make an anchor or an old anchor before we reach the end of our ropes?"</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">After descending about a thousand feet of steep slope, we hiked across some rocky slabs and onto a glacier. We gained another 500 feet or so to a wall where we dropped our shit and made camp, as we no longer had much energy to tolerate the freezing winds and were sick of the whiteout. The camp was actually quite nice, yet we had no idea if we were below the Torre or some random rock rib, as the visibility allowed did not allow much of a view. Here, we planned to rest for the next 24 hours as a storm passes through. The window we were shooting for was supposed to begin in the morning of the following day and continue for a day and a half. Unfortunately for us, the storm came in form of rain mixed with wet snow flakes and our sleeping bags got soaked by the humidity. We could not keep up with trying to dry off the interior of the tent, as drops of water kept on coming. Brian and I in one tent, with Garrett and extra gear in the other, we did not sleep, but only shivered through the night. I could be wrong but remember doing intermittent crunches through the night and talking with Brian about how fucked this whole situation is. This was the time when we were supposed to be recovering from a huge approach, not pumping out ab workouts! It was like being in some sort of a torture. You are drained from not sleeping well prior to the approach because you are anticipating the climb of a lifetime, then you get your ass handed to you by the exertion mixed with the environment and you can't close your eyes because you are wet, cold and feel like a used condom thrown out of a window during the New Year's eve celebration. "Fuck, fuck fuck, fucking FUCK!!!" At some point we were so cold that we begun to spoon. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">The sun did not come out in the morning as it should have and it continued to snow, so we continued to freeze for the next ten hours or so. We could not devour all of our food, as we packed spartan portions, so we warmed up some hot tea and continued with the cruntches and push ups. Finally, at 4 PM, our dreams of seeing the sun realized. Funny how it was no longer about climbing the Torre, all we wanted in life is to see the sun. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">The beauty of the surrounding landscape was overwhelming and the view of the four main summits along the Torre Massif was incredible. I have never seen anything like it, even in hundreds of photos I have looked at. Likely because not many have seen these peaks TOTALLY coated with rime, with not an inch of stone showing. We took some photos, attempted to dry out our gear as best as possible for the next few hours before the sun disappears over the ridge-line and dosed off for about 2-3 hours of sleep, again interrupted by the anticipation of the climb.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">The alarm woke us up at midnight, it was the time to rise and shine. We slogged through deep snow to the base of the steeper slope, which required two tools and concentration while climbing unroped. We roped up for two pitches of mostly drytooling and unroped again for a long stretch of slogging up a huge snow slope. While belaying one of the pitches I was hit by a bout of sharp pain in one of my sides and had some doubts that I could continue, yet the pain went away without much explanation. The stars were out and it was a clear night. Breaking trail through deep snow sucked. We kept a steady pace, towards the col de la Esperanza. During the dark hours of night it wasn't clear as it seems from the route overlay where the col is and where to climb from there. Many vertical ribs of ice rise up above and we took what seemed to be the way of least resistance. After the initial hill, we reached sustained WI2-3 steps of ice which we continued to solo through the night. First sections of vertical rime came a few pitches before the top of Elmo, which isn't as fun and fuzzy as it sounds. I found a vertical chimney composed of vertical powder and made my way up to a seat on top, where I was able to make some sort of an anchor, belay and in turn dyno down and to the side of another slope, which was straight forward and took us to the top and towards another pitch which was actually pretty gnar and I was afraid we would have to bail, as Garrett dug through overhanging snow and took a gnarly fall on his first attempt to get over. We probably screwed up the route finding, as it shouldn't have been that difficult.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">As we traversed from Elmo to the mixed pitches, we didn't really know where to go either, but found a way that felt like m7. M7 at least according to Mark Westman who said he took the same way on their attempt some years ago. It was difficult at the crux but damn fun. The headwall was steep and rimed over and we managed two more pitches of rime digging. At that point we collectively decided Garrett would do the rime stuff as the lightest climber who should have less trouble having his weight supported by this garbage. Unfortunately, as we reached the top of the ledge below the last pitch, we were met with the wall of hate. Ambushed, as it came over our heads from the South. Later, when we returned to town, a friend said he saw a few specs below the summit mushroom from Domo Blanco, but dismissed it as impossible, as there could be no humans on the Torre during this crap stretch of weather.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;"> Constant fifty mile per hour winds and a whiteout, in addition to temperatures that kept me climbing in my down pants and a down jacket all day. We could no longer bail upward, the only sane way was down, over huge terrain further complicated by low visibility and rime ice - a sea of white fury all around. When the ropes were tossed down, instead they shot up. Moments when even the most delusional people realize, we don't belong, nothing with a heartbeat can survive here for long. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">Half way down, the darkness of night took over, which led to more confusion about where to go. We ended up having to climb up a few pitches, traverse and get back on the proper descent path, which may sound simple, yet is further complicated by the dark, semi-whiteout and the howling wind. Many, many, many V-threads later and our ropes got stuck on the last rapell, we wasted more time retrieving them, but thank god Garrett led up to retrieve them. The aching toes had no other choice but to down-climb the last 500 feet of thin ice over rock back to terrain we could walk on. As we got closer to the tent, we saw the sun rise for the second time. A 29 hour tent to tent climb earned us two hours of rest, followed by a climb out via melting Standhardt col, which had to be done over loose mixed rock. At the time we had no idea how difficult it would be, yet we found a way up a decomposing rock ramp left of the waterfall. With our 40lb packs and rain fall, it felt M4-5R - instead of the WI3ish ice climb, which was flowing with water as the storm we were trying to avoid unleashed its fury when we reached the base. Climbing over was further complicated with huge chunks of ice falling from Aguja </span></span><span style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Standhardt. </span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;"> As I faced the last 40 foot section to the col, I could no longer avoid not climbing a waterfall and had to sprint up a solid 8 inches of flowing water over ice to Garrett's "get your Dan Osman on brother!" </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">Beat to shit on top of the col, we were met with huge wind gusts, which only intensified in force. If we had the will to record the experience, or give it the proper context, a common mind would describe it with one word, the apocalypse.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">A</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> couple hours later, near Niponino, the winds intensified to 80-100 MPH gusts which knocked all three of us on</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">to the talus, multiple times. I have never experienced anything like it. In the Ukraine, we had a saying that made fun of skinny people, saying if you don't eat much, you will be taken away by the wind. In Patagonia, this saying wouldn't work, as unless you are a thousand pound boulder, your safety is not guaranteed. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">This hike out is broken down into a two day affair by a huge majority that attempt Cerro Torre, we had to do it in a day due to the forecast of the strengthening storm, following a 29 hour climb. Crossing the glacier in such winds was a scary affair as getting hit with one of those gusts as you try to jump over a raging river of ice water would likely be grim, yet we made it over. And back to the trail, where we can mindlessly hike. From there we kept on hiking to Chalten in a dream-like state of confusion, totally dazed. Everything hurt, yet by now the body was numb to it. The rain is gone, the winds are tolerable, you are on a nice trail, you will not die here. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">It was an outing which made me appreciate my partners even more. When real shit hit the fan, more than once, or twice, or thrice, our unit made rational decisions and stuck to the old climbing wisdom:</span><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;"> </span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> "when we go to the mountains, we come back safe, we come back friends, and we go to the top. In that order.</span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"> " We got damn close to the top, in fact it was the high point of the season at the time, and if mountains are meant to pose a challenge, not an opportunity to collect a trophy, we have succeeded by pushing our physical and psychological limits, yet the closure in form of 'to the top' part is missing. No matter what the deceptive mind will whisper, the summits do matter for those that dub themselves mountain-climbers, yet the experience will stand out among others. This time it was more than reaching a summit in good weather, this time was a battle that took us close to our goal and showed us we were capable of much more than we believe possible. This coming from someone who has soloed the Evolution Traverse onsight car to car (15,000 feet of elevation gain, 36 miles, 9 peaks above 13,000 feet, 8 miles of technical ridge traversing to 5.8) and completed the first solo of the Full Evolution Crest traverse in 3 days (probably close to 10,000 feet of elevation gain, or more, every day for 3 days in a row with about 25 peaks above 13,000 feet and some 5.9 here and there). Another cookie in the jar of cookies I can devour on my death bed portraying why the life was worth living. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333;">The report below was written close to two years after the climb. I do not know why my writing muse waited so long, maybe I was hoping to bury this experience in the depths of my memory, maybe it took so long to process, or maybe the upcoming trip to Argentina is trying to wake up the beast in me that enjoys this sort of fun? I don't know, but if you got this far, thank you for investing your time and hope it influenced your day in a positive way. </span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">El Chalten with Fitz Roy rising above it at sunrise</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCqfSdI7MWnGpqBt733XcWRwwmqTqowE35hJsWHSC33IUgcoZcDl4NXoOAeD8pHjLFyJoJcKvS5gEhsBCd25M8P3dMTlO-wMF9glHlga3KoCCldFSpxFx3IYsvIo2vTsU_9vCW5_r9lrDy/s1600/DSC02525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="1000" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCqfSdI7MWnGpqBt733XcWRwwmqTqowE35hJsWHSC33IUgcoZcDl4NXoOAeD8pHjLFyJoJcKvS5gEhsBCd25M8P3dMTlO-wMF9glHlga3KoCCldFSpxFx3IYsvIo2vTsU_9vCW5_r9lrDy/s640/DSC02525.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cerro Torre. One of the most magnificent peaks on Earth.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kXbYYS8ppJk/XDLJmxDF64I/AAAAAAAAn0g/Rx_2BWTO7hcZnDwyueM_iIyfIOqrpjA1QCKgBGAs/s1600/DSC_0024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kXbYYS8ppJk/XDLJmxDF64I/AAAAAAAAn0g/Rx_2BWTO7hcZnDwyueM_iIyfIOqrpjA1QCKgBGAs/s640/DSC_0024.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tyrolean on a different day</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2TDQ08QQyMI/XDLJm634IDI/AAAAAAAAn0g/W5yQL8uzdioZRACSF0SBip7IKV51InGYwCKgBGAs/s1600/DSC02850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1146" data-original-width="1600" height="458" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2TDQ08QQyMI/XDLJm634IDI/AAAAAAAAn0g/W5yQL8uzdioZRACSF0SBip7IKV51InGYwCKgBGAs/s640/DSC02850.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View towards the glacier we will cross on the way to Niponino. Rock buttress right of the rainbow is the lower flank of Cerro Torre's SE ridge and the upper part of it has a few popular 5.10s (El Mocho)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1140" data-original-width="1600" height="454" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qx8HfEbix7k/XDLJm8IpW_I/AAAAAAAAn0g/Fr5ZXa_l9H82IX2qMlS21XLigRDITaxKACKgBGAs/s640/DSC02885.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach towards the col</td></tr>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qx8HfEbix7k/XDLJm8IpW_I/AAAAAAAAn0g/Fr5ZXa_l9H82IX2qMlS21XLigRDITaxKACKgBGAs/s1600/DSC02885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MD8ZJ5R14sk/XDLJm8je5kI/AAAAAAAAn0g/GNLq7py8w9MKjf4fAuwzo3-MVq6pVbibgCKgBGAs/s640/DSC02872.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Standhartd col is the notch on the right side of the photo. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8_UJlIhMJ14/XDLJmyndi3I/AAAAAAAAn0g/2agzwyhLRKIDk6TD8LfIrMT8ezq5UOCsACKgBGAs/s1600/DSC02895-Pano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1454" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8_UJlIhMJ14/XDLJmyndi3I/AAAAAAAAn0g/2agzwyhLRKIDk6TD8LfIrMT8ezq5UOCsACKgBGAs/s640/DSC02895-Pano.jpg" width="580" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brief clearing on the approach</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9L6E8Cfcu5E/Wz09jPtBsKI/AAAAAAAAiPQ/OaP5YdveHPgqWNUk22zMxTnBfob12RANQCKgBGAs/s1600/DSC02916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9L6E8Cfcu5E/Wz09jPtBsKI/AAAAAAAAiPQ/OaP5YdveHPgqWNUk22zMxTnBfob12RANQCKgBGAs/s640/DSC02916.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing to Standhardt Col in a windy whiteout</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1468" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x19TCVp6rcM/XDLJm4AQ2hI/AAAAAAAAn0g/1pN4ONt-VuA1RyEQvPfCUKqAGEZP_6CEACKgBGAs/s640/DSC02920-Pano.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="586" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This place is one of a kind. On the way back over the col all this rime was coming down at us.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNZEYotwmprAt8m903u1p_pFFGh0N2TVUE4W6j-Vziqx644Tzvn6ebLGPw_WofqpCFHJrb4za0_2bGIWAO6lOwC_7XBoaN9X65uNyJo9Do6TX9SuBbZIjvVVhrXaPANUZKIg5QdtGA6vF7/s1600/DSC02988-Pano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1600" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNZEYotwmprAt8m903u1p_pFFGh0N2TVUE4W6j-Vziqx644Tzvn6ebLGPw_WofqpCFHJrb4za0_2bGIWAO6lOwC_7XBoaN9X65uNyJo9Do6TX9SuBbZIjvVVhrXaPANUZKIg5QdtGA6vF7/s640/DSC02988-Pano.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp. Planet Cerro Torre</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8RXK0AuJGaY/XDLJmyGWQBI/AAAAAAAAn0g/-ws9FvpgyDcN6FefnTLj75Zor9X4Qhf-QCKgBGAs/s1600/DSC02970.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8RXK0AuJGaY/XDLJmyGWQBI/AAAAAAAAn0g/-ws9FvpgyDcN6FefnTLj75Zor9X4Qhf-QCKgBGAs/s640/DSC02970.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Torre is the one on the right</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UYpInADPn1E/XDLJm8wX77I/AAAAAAAAn0g/7XHCsGmRHPYtr_OmR8pkubofIdxSKwGUgCKgBGAs/s1600/DSC02957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UYpInADPn1E/XDLJm8wX77I/AAAAAAAAn0g/7XHCsGmRHPYtr_OmR8pkubofIdxSKwGUgCKgBGAs/s640/DSC02957.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garrett checking out the views from camp after being stormed on and shivering for 24 hours</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gNuQ4zBcf_A/Wz09jFuruTI/AAAAAAAAiPQ/dC9EZNdwLtUZTrNKX7EgUCQlaB_meznrACKgBGAs/s1600/20170122_151659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1491" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gNuQ4zBcf_A/Wz09jFuruTI/AAAAAAAAiPQ/dC9EZNdwLtUZTrNKX7EgUCQlaB_meznrACKgBGAs/s640/20170122_151659.jpg" width="596" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian trying to squeeze the water out of his sleeping bag<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ogFUhYac7kw/XDLJmzMa_uI/AAAAAAAAn0g/UjuXHimKWg4qyBNyB15WAuNiWV3j47aqACKgBGAs/s1600/DSC07346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ogFUhYac7kw/XDLJmzMa_uI/AAAAAAAAn0g/UjuXHimKWg4qyBNyB15WAuNiWV3j47aqACKgBGAs/s640/DSC07346.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Somewhere up there during pre-sunrise glow</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ohQAcn5ldCs/Wz09jK46gEI/AAAAAAAAiPQ/Kkm3WE0ahHYi-PaPJ3R9tSkZPy_taQ39wCKgBGAs/s1600/Torre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1088" data-original-width="1600" height="434" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ohQAcn5ldCs/Wz09jK46gEI/AAAAAAAAiPQ/Kkm3WE0ahHYi-PaPJ3R9tSkZPy_taQ39wCKgBGAs/s640/Torre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">View of Torre Egger around sunrise</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wP7kkEQRxZk/Wz09jMQvBZI/AAAAAAAAiPQ/lw7GzWm67ZgLohdDGqqLCO7GvRYMm9Z4gCKgBGAs/s1600/DSC03012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wP7kkEQRxZk/Wz09jMQvBZI/AAAAAAAAiPQ/lw7GzWm67ZgLohdDGqqLCO7GvRYMm9Z4gCKgBGAs/s640/DSC03012.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vertical cotton candy chimneying</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="901" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sgMt3t3cC_0/Wz09jOdouEI/AAAAAAAAiPQ/hO4nsSkczyMc4Hy9r59bCtPveckQubr0wCKgBGAs/s640/20170123_082539.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="360" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garrett Leading a pitch of overhanging gnar. On his first attempt he took a fall straight down to the ledge we belayed on and was unhurt, likely because he weights 110 lbs and has agility of a cat. When it comes to his climbing abilities, he sends wi6, m8/9s and can push it into 5.13. We likely messed up the route finding and were not in a proper runnel.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdd0WLhBhYaCa8xVoA5saW3jm0EJORECujwlA7f_FuILUXJtLKaayLM3_JJT_F_5tSSj669OsalByweD-lfAQFy9mPvzyaf3MQL8Hw24v3lOAAimVeD02uD7z6khW_mm_bjC6834sMyJPF/s1600/20170123_105621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1115" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdd0WLhBhYaCa8xVoA5saW3jm0EJORECujwlA7f_FuILUXJtLKaayLM3_JJT_F_5tSSj669OsalByweD-lfAQFy9mPvzyaf3MQL8Hw24v3lOAAimVeD02uD7z6khW_mm_bjC6834sMyJPF/s640/20170123_105621.jpg" width="444" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Few pitches of easy led to a m7ish crux (we did not go the right way again)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1600" height="406" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OXOw3mXXsxg/Wz09jJy_vNI/AAAAAAAAiPQ/kxBXRZwcssQIIb2g-6pNsOlIxJ_jSd5PACKgBGAs/s640/20170123_115727.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian following a bit of steep gnar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian leading on the headwall</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1312" data-original-width="1600" height="524" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ciRROM64EDI/Wz09jL5yicI/AAAAAAAAiPQ/SOp88l3tdUsQQ-Iv7MSHdkZdMbdBPNcIQCKgBGAs/s640/20170123_171015-Pano.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weather getting worse, but the hell was coming in from the other side. Hole we chimneyed through.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian going down! </td></tr>
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Other photos from outings to Superdomo on Domo Blanco, Rafael Juarez and De L'S </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me leading on superdomo, photo by Brian</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tito!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Excocet. Photo by Brian</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hauling garbage from the glacier</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cerro Solo - nice dayhike with the Cutler brothers from Iowa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1143" data-original-width="1600" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn2eGFKvPKBcAzjCEI29uEuPhUKiCapqp_GWJQMrdn_sjp8cIqpGR20GTAzfc_9Vbk5FjXAZpXvEa0acBAt30JzyIG-7INU9YDQNOTYm8u1NX76xLOMaaNJclYNhevow0g8f3ykxv5vNuV/s640/DSC07281.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North Pillar of Fitz</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEG7YE9RduAxq6G4sz6oS5U4V3EKZey2Go3P9Kz2DHDYadgrZgMK1VtiffX82WeN3pINCxkAr_udO16dNf7NP8FtleIspoddMSkpI5Sc0FEN0LJGQVrbjw9yJ6ux5tSkby45X3LQiW0qkR/s1600/DSC02588.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1179" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEG7YE9RduAxq6G4sz6oS5U4V3EKZey2Go3P9Kz2DHDYadgrZgMK1VtiffX82WeN3pINCxkAr_udO16dNf7NP8FtleIspoddMSkpI5Sc0FEN0LJGQVrbjw9yJ6ux5tSkby45X3LQiW0qkR/s640/DSC02588.jpg" width="470" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This wind wasn't even THAT bad and the rope was going sideways and up. Top of Medialuna earlier in the trip</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ux5FNk6Cnc0/XDODggPNZ5I/AAAAAAAAn00/IxkbLqJ0KOkqASprolo6t4iVQgK1wRuJwCKgBGAs/s640/DSC02777-2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit of Fitz Roy</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Superdomo again, photo by Brian</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU0IVh0uPL3e4w9iXgJ8G2A3AgCk954VcbSzfczgQwz6q54DGC7kidy-a48_KxpUtEp2qSeqLCGBdTnwwm1uqbFZqlRXNAH1WM2I8Q6mj7DCg1EUSyo0A_k579tlh_QgJERoaAswZKHwaL/s1600/DSC07427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1257" data-original-width="1600" height="502" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU0IVh0uPL3e4w9iXgJ8G2A3AgCk954VcbSzfczgQwz6q54DGC7kidy-a48_KxpUtEp2qSeqLCGBdTnwwm1uqbFZqlRXNAH1WM2I8Q6mj7DCg1EUSyo0A_k579tlh_QgJERoaAswZKHwaL/s640/DSC07427.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spreading Edward Lau's ashes from top of Superdomo. The summit did not have much of a drop off to do it from. Photo by Brian</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE96Q87OQjFIqkMh1w0mzweZ9IIZLsQw_3uA8s3hKmrdfN067DBFOLX5aTXnFDL1HlYDAjFzpPyz4OysbzZ5c4DK-8PMoPCK11iqbvdxwc7qZFruw7koPnhW7wsZ4_reyvpsoU4W_s5CdU/s640/DSC07706.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian Prince on top of De L'S</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top of De L'S (me, photo by Brian)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEingGKWqh6som8EtNuuk7v9DeLfSdRBrjoDFcaXXUYYgLGe4O8hQWxC9YtWPG2lN9S7xDnLnmJkM2FaFT2Wf1uwHPNmGSwqnq9f2MbFQwtLQowBQ4tSUCxFxT-MUkS7flvrFybpilvLvezM/s640/DSC03347.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St. Exupary from the top of Rafael Juarez</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKCg3KBtHH6EShNwPR3QxiXPRz8sxd7unLGjIu15NwI4455GcVVYrdldvK9d3xb4ZDKwVAr9ntzjVOU0Xr1l-mSYcnO6upC9HM8wBdZsqfahTe7A4SwSK4NXJ4QXMdoFxxm07Qw2WzzLCM/s1600/DSC02783-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKCg3KBtHH6EShNwPR3QxiXPRz8sxd7unLGjIu15NwI4455GcVVYrdldvK9d3xb4ZDKwVAr9ntzjVOU0Xr1l-mSYcnO6upC9HM8wBdZsqfahTe7A4SwSK4NXJ4QXMdoFxxm07Qw2WzzLCM/s640/DSC02783-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Post sunset glow as we rap from the summit of Fitz Roy via the Supercanaleta</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6FJdSLItJjU/XDLJm6-NHLI/AAAAAAAAn0g/z7p7mmS55ewO6kREnkF4EqHH2J4cRMTjwCKgBGAs/s1600/DSC_0093-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1046" data-original-width="1600" height="418" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6FJdSLItJjU/XDLJm6-NHLI/AAAAAAAAn0g/z7p7mmS55ewO6kREnkF4EqHH2J4cRMTjwCKgBGAs/s640/DSC_0093-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fitz Roy<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1H1XPwAjnQY/XDOYDppuE-I/AAAAAAAAn1A/EpBfhFSIUjoDQZ5QBKNp6LZz3Rrf3HBKwCKgBGAs/s1600/DSC02787-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1H1XPwAjnQY/XDOYDppuE-I/AAAAAAAAn1A/EpBfhFSIUjoDQZ5QBKNp6LZz3Rrf3HBKwCKgBGAs/s640/DSC02787-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CnKTrNIWgK8/Wz09jAaX50I/AAAAAAAAiPQ/Fe0JygjeVQIKbBhxB4nB668QmfY9LKnKACKgBGAs/s1600/DSC03054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1262" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CnKTrNIWgK8/Wz09jAaX50I/AAAAAAAAiPQ/Fe0JygjeVQIKbBhxB4nB668QmfY9LKnKACKgBGAs/s640/DSC03054.jpg" width="504" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And the dream remains (from the summit of Superdomo)</td></tr>
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-2285608865054225332018-12-09T14:32:00.002-08:002018-12-21T11:00:47.061-08:00Hyalite December 2018<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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First ice/mixed climbing trips of the season usually feel rough and shaky, at least to me, so we decided to spend out first day in Hyalite mainly drytooling, in order to get the feel of the whole process again. And I say process because at times mixed climbing feels like aid climbing, or at least a little less natural than rock climbing. Scary medieval axes in your arms, connected to the harness with leashes, screws, draws, cams, spikes on your feet. Good luck not stepping on your rope and not wrapping the leashes all around the tools on the crux. A good time to smile and remind myself that grace is work in progress. We finished the day by both leading the Matrix and planned an outing to attempt the SUPERFAT Matriarch on day two. </div>
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When we got to the base of the Matriarch, we found a team of 4 climbing it with one guide. 21 Stitches (M8 WI6) however was in as well, so we decided to try that. There was a party ahead of us and I tried to gather all the beta on the crux, as the leader was trying to get through it. Watching him fall 5-7 times and break a nice looking blob of ice at the lip was not encouraging, but guys that just got off the route made it sound more attainable. Aivaras led the direct start to the route (at m6 wi5?) and I led the 2nd pitch with the dreaded M8 overhang. To my surprise I onsighted both, but just barely. After pulling the strenuous crux (you are basically doing one armed pull ups through the overhang, as you have no feet to edge on) my bicepts started to cramp and I nearly ate shit on easy ice. That would be a painful bummer. I continued to rock climb left on big blobs and clipped a few bolts before making a transition to a hanging dagger. The position was truely wild. Dagger grew larger and offered a few stemmy rest stances. After getting to the top I witnessed a beautiful sunset as I was belaying Aivaras. Even though we hiked out in the dark and I had to pay a 50$ late fee because I demoed some ice tools and brought them back late, it was still very worth it in my mind and I was pretty psyched we got on a world class climb that we have not even planned to get on.</div>
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The third day begun with a romp to try the Killer Pillar, which was climbed by another party in front of us and led by Aivaras after. It was pouring with water and in order to suffer a little less, I even asked him to remove the screws that he placed as I lowered him. It was a cold and wet day, which we ended by climbing the mixed route to the right. It was very nice, with a few smears of ice but damn difficult for m7, not that m7 is supposed to be easy. :)<br />
We did two more days of mixed cragging, which was mostly about working out and getting really really pumped. On one of those, we did something like 8 laps on a great route that used to be rated as an m7+ but has been upgraded to m9 in the new guide. For two of those laps I wore a 25lb backpack and was able to complete the climb clean. The following day was frigid cold, my body felt worked, I climbed like shit and decided that two top rope laps was more than enough. Highlight of the day was watching a few guys climb the Nutcracker across the canyon. That route, along with the Winter Dance, are on my WANT TO CLIMB list. I hope one day, the dream will come true. :) A fun and productive trip overall! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BDEED8ClGPk/XA2RgQtUBRI/AAAAAAAAnCk/smqkfrdfVTMX6uhKeJoO_ix6JoUV4cffgCKgBGAs/s1600/DSC07971.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BDEED8ClGPk/XA2RgQtUBRI/AAAAAAAAnCk/smqkfrdfVTMX6uhKeJoO_ix6JoUV4cffgCKgBGAs/s640/DSC07971.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Killer Pillar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Gnar</td></tr>
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-74058832958218594292018-11-28T15:12:00.001-08:002018-11-28T15:12:27.120-08:00Chasing the Yosemite Moonbows<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b>This trip report does not relate to climbing in any way, yet is about a rare event that happens in a place many rock climbers find special. For those, who have not heard of the Moonbows in Yosemite, I highly advise to google it and come check it out for yourself in 2019! Not doing myself a favor by advertising the event and possibly making it more crowded, but hell, I have gotten shit for advertising walls with climbing potential. I am of belief there will be enough space for a few more people and it could be very excited to witness something a little less rare than the Horsetail Firefalls, yet as worthy and as spectacular.</b><br />
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It was a random stormy April day and I was deep in the rabbit hole of internet when I came across something that I became curious about. It was a photo of Lower Yosemite Falls with a colorful rainbow spanning in the foreground, above the booming waterfall were stars - it was a night shot! How could a rainbow be out at night? After some more investigation, turned out several other Yosemite waterfalls have been photographed in a similar fashion, but several things have to line up for these shots to be possible:<br />
1) The waterfall has to be out in full force (duh) and create enough mist to reflect the light of the moon.<br />
2) The weather has to be clear to allow the moonshine to reach the waterfall.<br />
3) The moon has to be full or nearly full in order to light up the waterfall with enough force.<br />
4) It has to hit it at a particular angle to create the rainbow and can only happen during certain months of the year and during certain hours on different days. <br />
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[youtube=HG1rC3NnHas]<br />
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Well, when is the next window to view the event, I thought, and found a well written schedule -<br />
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DAMN, IT IS TODAY AND TOMORROW!<br />
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It was fully raining in Visalia and there would be no chance in hell of seeing it today and the forecast for tomorrow did not look promising. I googled the event some more and found out about different angles that could work for the shot, as well as the settings some of the other photographers use for it.<br />
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The weather did not improve much in Yosemite, as the webcam showed dark cloudy sky, yet NOAA allowed for glimmer of hope with "partially cloudy" prediction for the evening. I was not sure what to do, as the drive to Yosemite would be three hours one way and I had to work the next morning. The moonbow is a night event, so I would be arriving home very late in the night and getting only a few hours of sleep. For some odd reason, I decided to take slim chance and go for it. <br />
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After a long drive, I noticed the sky was cloudy, yet there were a few patches of blue. When I went to set up, I was one of the few people there an hour prior and set my tripod in an amazing spot below and infront of a bridge, however a few minutes later one of the photographers present told me I would be ruining the shot for the 50 or so people that will show up later. I didn't even think there would be anyone else there because of the forecast, but set up in a spot more accommodating for the crowds. The dude was right. In less than an hour it was hard to find a spot to stand! The Moon was covered with clouds for most of the night and the conditions weren't perfect due to a passing storm. However, many photographers that came out were rewarded with short windows of moonshine that allowed a few decent snaps. The Moonbow itself did not come out as strong as it could have with better conditions, but I am hoping to be there the following year. Not only to photograph the Lower Yosemite Falls from different angles, during **hopefully** a better weather window, yet the Upper Yosemite Falls from different aspects. There are so many ways to be creative photographing the moonbows, that one could come out for 50+ showings and still think of new creative ways to compose a future shot.<br />
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My photos were shot with a Sony A6000, a mirrorless camera. Now that I upgraded to a Nikin D750, I am hoping for better conditions and a better capture of this phenomenal beauty in the future. If you google this event, you can see many other ways and photos edited by professionals that are much more stunning. I personally was very happy with my first attempt and staying the duration of the evening, even though I got only 3 hours before waking up for work. #coffee_official #sleep_when_youre_dead<br />
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Hope some of you will come out and see it for yourself!<br />
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My favorite composition, shot from behind the bridge. Favorite, because it is original and shows the event as a whole, including the rainbow, the waterfall and all the people on the bridge. The exposure was good too, with the water getting enough light to show beautiful colors. The stars came out as pinpoint features. One thing that is good about the clouds, is that they prevent the sky from being boring. Now to get the sky with some clouds on the North side of the valley, with enough space to show off the stars, but totally clear on the South side in order to get stronger moonshine...mmmhmmmm some day! :)<br />
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A few other angles that came out OK.<br />
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I do want to improve my astrophotography. These two were taken in early November and the milky way is not as strong as it is during summer months. Yet I love all the lights from the climbers on El Cap and the fall colors illuminated by the passing car. More practice and a better camera/lens combination will hopefully help too. This was a stitch of three photos taken with Sony A6000, Rokinon 12mm f2.0 lens set for 15 second exposure, f2.8 at 6400iso<br />
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Some other photos from this fall<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Tongue in your butt, like it or not!"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Did he take a photo of...." Do you see those two blushing? I do!</td></tr>
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Fall colors<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_CW0NPWIqQg/W_8aqfEcoQI/AAAAAAAAm10/3V_NzOUVWIgs_IkyWjtoVk-pMH-cpthhQCKgBGAs/s1600/DSC07797.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" data-original-height="1199" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_CW0NPWIqQg/W_8aqfEcoQI/AAAAAAAAm10/3V_NzOUVWIgs_IkyWjtoVk-pMH-cpthhQCKgBGAs/s640/DSC07797.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Yosemite Tunnel view before sunrise. This spot is more photogenic during sunsets.<br />
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Moving water<br />
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-66780922515293906492018-10-08T13:42:00.001-07:002018-10-08T13:42:15.639-07:00Simply Photos!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-68574935667114849912018-02-12T21:56:00.004-08:002018-02-12T21:56:34.351-08:00Photo Essay<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-89317468879473607732017-09-21T21:54:00.003-07:002017-10-05T15:31:11.683-07:00A Trip to the Arrigetch - Brooks Range, AK<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The news of being hired to work in the Emergency Department of a large Trauma Center was bittersweet, knowing that my friends Brian Prince, Adam Ferro and I had a planned trip to Alaska to climb in the Arrigetch, only four months after my orientation was supposed to begin. Few month prior we received the Mugs Stump Award which granted us funds to cover most of the travel expenses for the expedition, yet I was fully prepared to encourage my friends to split my share of the grant and go on a trip of a lifetime without me. Asking for a vacation such a short time after getting hired was not mentioned in "Impressing the New Boss for Dummies," yet sending her the official release of the grant and stacking shifts worked magically and I was granted nineteen days off.<br />
Having read about the Arrigetch in a David Roberts` book early in my mountaineering career made me aware of the remote range with large granite spires. Even though I always had a strong desire to see the range with own eyes, it was hard to dedicate so much time for a place known for unstable weather, a place more than three thousand miles away, when the best granite and the range with the most stable mountain weather is a few hours away, here in the Sierra Nevada. Especially for someone not interested in being bored in a tent for days while the storms are raging. Getting a new job was a blessing in this regard, as I loaded my phone with study material and brought a book with much to learn about critical care nursing. As long as we were not gonna get eaten by a grizzly bear it would be a good trip with good friends.<br />
Working with a minimum amount of time one would need to go on such an expedition did not allow much time for screwing around. The Same day I flew to Anchorage, we drove north to the town of Coldfoot in a long push. Unfortunately, it was raining and we had to wait a few days before we could fly out to the base of the mountains. We don't have much advice for accommodations in town, as the only hotel there seemed too expensive and instead, we crashed in an abandoned building. Local ranger station provided us with the permit, bear-proof canisters and amusement in form of educational presentations every evening.<br />
When the weather allowed us to fly in, we learned that the biggest sandbag of the trip was the approach up Arrigetch Creek. Brian thought the approach to the base of the West Face of Xanadu would be five miles. How bad could that be?! Because it rained heavily for several days in a row before we arrived, the water in the river was so high that we couldn't cross the creek separating a small island on which we landed and the land. It took us about two hours to wander around looking for a crossing, giving up on that idea and setting up the tyrolean traverse to get our packs across. After that, we hiked towards Arrigetch creek hoping to find the trail, through bushes and across several other creek crossings. We were happy to finally find the trail but to call it a trail is misleading. It was more of a muddy groove with water running through it. Traveling anywhere else would be hell, so this was our best option. After walking for a few hours I was in doubt it could be five miles to the base, as Xanadu still looked very far away. Later in the trip, we realized it was more like fifteen miles, not five.<br />
On the second day of the approach, we saw a peak named the Albatross. Although not something we planned for, it was a striking granite spire with what had to be an exhilarating summit block. Soon after passing beneath it we were in a raging thunderstorm and had to camp short of the pass we were hoping to climb over before we could attempt Xanadu. In the morning the rain ceased, yet the pass was covered in clouds and still invisible. On our side of the pass, the beautiful southeast face of Albatross was being illuminated by the sun. We adapted to the conditions quickly and set off to find a direct line up it.<br />
We climbed all sort of terrain, from solid alpine rock with fun pumpy moves to dangerous overhangs with flakes stacked like a house of cards, waiting for someone not careful to give them a good pull. Since all three of us had a good amount of experience climbing varied terrain in the past and trying to stretch our seventy-meter ropes to the limit on every pitch, we made a relatively quick ascent as not much time was lost for route finding. The route up the Direct Southeast face was approximately 1,700 feet with difficulties to 5.10+, which means the wall is actually taller than the NW face of Xanadu, which appears taller than it is on the map because several hundred feet of slab below the base of the wall make it appear larger on the topo map. The cooperating weather resulted in incredible summit panorama. Dark and intimidating Northeast Face of Xanadu, called the Graylin wall to our right. Walls, spires and imposing ship-like prow formed the sunlit granite ridge to our left. It was one of the most exposed, scenic and memorable summits for all three of us with the views our photographs do not give proper justice to. On top, we found a summit register with only signatures in it being those of the men who did the first documented ascent of the formation. Since then, it is believed at least two parties topped out the incredible peak.<br />
Long summer days allowed us to return to camp, make dinner and fall asleep before it got dark - in mid-August it got dark for only a couple of hours. All three of us were physically beat from a tough three-day stretch yet the following morning the weather was clear enough. Few hours after we got back from climbing the Albatross, we decided to load up on coffee and attempt the NW of Xanadu. Although we didn't have the much-desired energy, we got over the two passes and to the base of the wall in good time. By then the wind picked up and the clouds thickened yet we found a 70 meter, five-star corner and climbed three and a half more pitches before the first drops of rain with a healthy dose of arctic wind forced a retreat from about halfway up the wall.<br />
After that, we were tent-bound due to intermittent rain. Without accurate forecast and our provisions running out, we could not come up with a great plan of actions. Things were simplified after two days when we had only half a day's worth of snacks and a dinner left. It was not raining that morning but the clouds surrounded the mountains. We could have hiked out and bought another week's worth of food from the airstrip or hike over the 2,000 ft pass, attempt to climb and hike out to the airstrip to get food after. We chose the latter.<br />
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Receiving the Mugs Stump award inspired us to climb in the style we thought the late Mugs Stump would prefer, one which would challenge us the most and the style which allows the mountain a fair chance to defeat our attempts - alpine style, no fixed ropes, as little as possible fixed gear. Midway up the wall, the difficulties picked up. We were able to get past several runouts with potential for serious falls without placing bolts and cruxes up to 5.11+ went free, most memorable was one that required finger lock campusing over a big roof. Doing all that with frozen fingers and climbing in a whiteout provided more drama than most would want on a remote alpine route, but after about seven pitches of climbing, most of which were full 70 meters, we were standing on top of the wall and only had the final ridge traverse left to get to the summit. About 400 feet of simul-climbing took us to the top of the route we later dubbed the Arctic Knight (IV 5.11+ R). Although happy with the result, the thick clouds and freezing winds didn't allow us to see much or stay long. It was a shame the weather did not cooperate, as the wall had great rock and amazing climbing that would be much more fun without screaming barfies. Because we had to get down from the wall, get down to camp, pack it, move it five miles down the valley, hike all the way out, pick up seven days worth of food and hike back to camp, the true crux of this day was endurance and willpower. Last several hours were horrible as we found our food cache at dusk and it started to rain heavily. By the time we returned to camp after sunrise, we were very tired, drenched and ready to ask grizzly bears to end our suffer-fest if we saw them nearby.<br />
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Unfortunately, our effort did not convince the weather gods to let us have a few more days of good weather to climb. Instead, I studied and got weather windows big enough to pick blueberries, which were actually very tasty! It rained for several days in a row and climbing was out of the question. Forecast for the following several days was horrible too, so we asked our pilot to pick us up four days earlier than originally planned. The stars aligned for us one more time - instead of sitting in a soggy tent we hooked up with Brian's stepdad who enough free time to take us flying in his small airplane and to take us salmon fishing for a few days. All of us had an amazing time, especially Adam and I since neither of us ever caught fish that big. It was a great addition to our trip and I was happy to bring a few pounds of smoked salmon for my mom when I traveled home to Central Valley through San Francisco. Even though we got only two ok climbing days, compared to my first trip to the final frontier the full Alaska experience was outstanding. The support of the Mugs Stump award, generous manager, great partners, challenging days in the mountains, blueberries, fishing and learning to operate a plane and not getting eaten by a bear. We may have to plan another trip to Alaska!<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.75px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.75px;">[Photo] Engberg, Bain, Boning and Braasch collection (from Alpinist article)</span><br />
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Photo: me on top of the Albatross, by Brian Prince<br />
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Photo: Adam Ferro following one of the upper pitches on Albatross. By Brian Prince.</div>
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-48067980289912582982017-05-26T18:04:00.000-07:002017-05-26T18:04:11.768-07:00Pataginia pt. 1: Fitz Roy, Medialuna + Random Shots<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y7BynTTOGxI/WSjMrTSKrYI/AAAAAAAAXJE/HiZpEfXMt3Y0iz1TbR3yPFle1eZ1b-vQACKgB/s1600/DSC_0110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="849" data-original-width="1600" height="338" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y7BynTTOGxI/WSjMrTSKrYI/AAAAAAAAXJE/HiZpEfXMt3Y0iz1TbR3yPFle1eZ1b-vQACKgB/s640/DSC_0110.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chalten and the Fitz Roy aka Mt. Chalten</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welcome to Chalten!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guilliamet and Fitz Roy towering above it</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0FxvHFbHIgq6syiY9YE_wt0lvRh84VReA2vwwm892hGJR-xkcePt2YxilSzIdMXFlrVG6xKMf36LC0SPl3iqLNlfgOFk-GVzw10IM6o90wzXofnrw058HbsRApWD-FZYAlsdZKlyFzDFg/s1600/DSC02349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0FxvHFbHIgq6syiY9YE_wt0lvRh84VReA2vwwm892hGJR-xkcePt2YxilSzIdMXFlrVG6xKMf36LC0SPl3iqLNlfgOFk-GVzw10IM6o90wzXofnrw058HbsRApWD-FZYAlsdZKlyFzDFg/s640/DSC02349.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where is the summer??</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheburashka and Piergiorgio</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening - the mountains are clearing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning - go time.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P4j9TfCYnXE/WSjMrXHi0gI/AAAAAAAAXJE/0S3YJv82sfkJBrP6hx_-AdI-P19Jq7xuACKgB/s1600/DSC02525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="1000" height="440" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P4j9TfCYnXE/WSjMrXHi0gI/AAAAAAAAXJE/0S3YJv82sfkJBrP6hx_-AdI-P19Jq7xuACKgB/s640/DSC02525.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Medialuna is the rock spire on the right. Cerro Torre is the towering demon above it.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4XQZS8dsNKU/WSjMrRVZSdI/AAAAAAAAXJE/HnczCcioFgEr5TdUjFtgxSF2HUXXBle0gCKgB/s1600/DSC02591.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4XQZS8dsNKU/WSjMrRVZSdI/AAAAAAAAXJE/HnczCcioFgEr5TdUjFtgxSF2HUXXBle0gCKgB/s640/DSC02591.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian on top, trying to hold a stance with frequent 40mph gusts hitting.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some climbing on Medialuna</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7GTWhLFZOLHZGRTAX9OGyjDsWqfkYaDwSneIPAFzoI1mlQjD0sDj3PK4noaApMrEFWVM5lELafbnshMeVSXpo928Y2ku-ZI82LwRc0T9Bg8CZQss7HbeowyrtCB0slJCURpAMFms0QKj/s1600/DSC07427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1098" data-original-width="1600" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7GTWhLFZOLHZGRTAX9OGyjDsWqfkYaDwSneIPAFzoI1mlQjD0sDj3PK4noaApMrEFWVM5lELafbnshMeVSXpo928Y2ku-ZI82LwRc0T9Bg8CZQss7HbeowyrtCB0slJCURpAMFms0QKj/s640/DSC07427.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spreading Eddie's ashes from Domo Blanco with the line of Supercanaleta obvious in the middle of Fitz.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pfn2StIwj10/WSjMrZE9f5I/AAAAAAAAXJE/4vLIytlqoDU7dbyUn_3vXCNFrhAMi-YUQCKgB/s1600/DSC02722-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pfn2StIwj10/WSjMrZE9f5I/AAAAAAAAXJE/4vLIytlqoDU7dbyUn_3vXCNFrhAMi-YUQCKgB/s640/DSC02722-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some #gnar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V3i_mSng_ow/WSjMrYDi0mI/AAAAAAAAXJE/W4ThVsA2RGElI_SRLTrPaYED2GTgUS4JgCKgB/s1600/DSC02732-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="738" data-original-width="1000" height="472" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V3i_mSng_ow/WSjMrYDi0mI/AAAAAAAAXJE/W4ThVsA2RGElI_SRLTrPaYED2GTgUS4JgCKgB/s640/DSC02732-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crampons all the way to the summit</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RzQOdskChUY/WSjMrRNHk7I/AAAAAAAAXJE/VqEbWJLAmYIK26b-2n1_UTI1k8dhvsj9ACKgB/s1600/DSC02777.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RzQOdskChUY/WSjMrRNHk7I/AAAAAAAAXJE/VqEbWJLAmYIK26b-2n1_UTI1k8dhvsj9ACKgB/s640/DSC02777.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top of Fitz Roy<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x0x4Pnb06ME/WSjPzcHhgjI/AAAAAAAAXJY/OHrGsi7mZQEiOLR-7vJC_BfrPekhV-GPACKgB/s1600/DSC_0093.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1062" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x0x4Pnb06ME/WSjPzcHhgjI/AAAAAAAAXJY/OHrGsi7mZQEiOLR-7vJC_BfrPekhV-GPACKgB/s640/DSC_0093.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJZOwS_Ulc_DX6iPzlpsmK0A9A1VklLMVCjb3XLMB_bAGufLEs4NpdqZ14BBOjY4CD4k01nPRB3jLc_n89pIh4ajhMoC8pvoVFdT42rBp8xEYuDMek4Oq_hsarHRxJPoTM2_voVK88tS5/s1600/DSC03084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1025" data-original-width="1600" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJZOwS_Ulc_DX6iPzlpsmK0A9A1VklLMVCjb3XLMB_bAGufLEs4NpdqZ14BBOjY4CD4k01nPRB3jLc_n89pIh4ajhMoC8pvoVFdT42rBp8xEYuDMek4Oq_hsarHRxJPoTM2_voVK88tS5/s640/DSC03084.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a pretty peak/range</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zFz0U-MyogA/WSjMrfnk3QI/AAAAAAAAXJE/s2P_yLrLzY87-jw8ujKuEbKT2ISjrl9-QCKgB/s1600/DSC_0140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1035" data-original-width="1600" height="412" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zFz0U-MyogA/WSjMrfnk3QI/AAAAAAAAXJE/s2P_yLrLzY87-jw8ujKuEbKT2ISjrl9-QCKgB/s640/DSC_0140.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fitz Roy from town</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQChq_teUfG2_i4MRCUasYRx9B91lWtOY2xmU_z9Ay9TR3QMVY3tBmHctBb5ZVr_g4LfoBaRlXKKbq_uhVkRN8VDNBABTX_RBZDekA1ss2csJfQSyyi5-WQViR_M1M7goPGp-2EVywWZKT/s1600/DSC_0007-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="908" data-original-width="1600" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQChq_teUfG2_i4MRCUasYRx9B91lWtOY2xmU_z9Ay9TR3QMVY3tBmHctBb5ZVr_g4LfoBaRlXKKbq_uhVkRN8VDNBABTX_RBZDekA1ss2csJfQSyyi5-WQViR_M1M7goPGp-2EVywWZKT/s640/DSC_0007-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cerro Torre</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jv_yT8NbVCk/WSjQYF-MtLI/AAAAAAAAXJg/hcbnkzl0TWMaoqTRlRa3rY-E3Ackd44LgCKgB/s1600/DSC02519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="664" data-original-width="1000" height="424" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jv_yT8NbVCk/WSjQYF-MtLI/AAAAAAAAXJg/hcbnkzl0TWMaoqTRlRa3rY-E3Ackd44LgCKgB/s640/DSC02519.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yayuh</td></tr>
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-68314954983493637172016-12-26T12:49:00.002-08:002016-12-26T12:52:34.094-08:00Fall in the Desert <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Anyone wants to know how to make an eight year old cry twice??? That was one of the things I learned this fall, and that the number of pedophile and dead baby jokes is infinite. So yeah, the cold campfire nights were great and the fall productive. There was also a lot of climbing, photography, smiles, #flailinontheproj, new hashtags and an unexpected free climbing highlight was the sent of the Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12+) in Zion NP. #crusheditbro #spraylords_of_instagram #RUN_the_PDL_homie<br />
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Now Moonlight is downgraded to only a 5.12B/C, and is not difficult at all for the harder men and women out there, yet yours truly was expecting to get up the route, not free it in a day, on the first attempt. It has sustained, beautiful crack climbing from bottom to the top, pushed me to the absolute limit of trying hard. While climbing the last crux pitch my hands were close to failing on a section of locker low 5.11 fingers, which would be a joy in the beginning, with plenty of energy. That was after three pitches of cramping biceps. Got by, yet am far from mastering the route, that's for damn sure. The trip started from climbing in Red Rocks, then going to Zion and doing Tricks of the Trade (V 5.11- C2) and The Monkeyfinger (IV 5.12), both of which are great too! I did not send the latter. The MB happened later, after climbing in Indian Creek for about three weeks. Gettimg used to sandstone was wise.<br />
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....as the 2016 comes to an end, the new year approaches and will start from a trip to Patagonia while actively applying for jobs closer to the mountains. Not sure what to expect for 2017, but as long as I can escape from injuries and continue climbing with good people, I'm sure it will be a good one. Wish the same for everyone reading, Marry Christmas, Happy New Year and get out to those places you want to see in 2017, the time to live is now!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Sunset selfies! That's what climbin in the Creek is all about braj!11 ! (I barely know this guy but he is a straight G mega OG)<br />
#straight_gangsters_of_instagram #lulzoftheday</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">The Moonlight Buttress #shitmypants #nexttimebringingfixedlinesandminitraxing</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#showinoffthebicepts #crushing #gladtheropeistight #spraylords_of_instagram</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gBdLYOXprCQ/WDOUcjw9eLI/AAAAAAAAVXU/x2kS91ghpl89zBhLpxllmL5QLxAYXQLKQCPcB/s1600/DSC01740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gBdLYOXprCQ/WDOUcjw9eLI/AAAAAAAAVXU/x2kS91ghpl89zBhLpxllmL5QLxAYXQLKQCPcB/s640/DSC01740.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Zion NP. View from Tricks of the Trade, what a great climb and a great view, WOW!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#splitterbro!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#take_in_slack #im_pumped #toobadmytattooisnotfullyvisible</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dY0AXshMP6k/WE-I9umLBsI/AAAAAAAAV3o/ZYaKcMPQck0qkE4jYwm2rT19I75SD6MoQCPcB/s1600/DSC02122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dY0AXshMP6k/WE-I9umLBsI/AAAAAAAAV3o/ZYaKcMPQck0qkE4jYwm2rT19I75SD6MoQCPcB/s640/DSC02122.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#inaday #crushedit #retarded_hashtags_of_instagram</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#notmyleadbro </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#steepgnarbriancruisin </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#actinlikeitaintshityetcrampinandwhinin #thatshowweroll</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#Insert_inspirational_quote_here</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#the_homies_straight_chillin</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#bro_sent_5.13 #I_belayed #fuck_yeah</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#sick_paintin_bro</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#homie_is_god #climbing_itno_the_sky</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Angels Landing</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning long exposure of the Patriarchs, Zion.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deadhorse Point, Utah</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wq1kt4I2Fmw/WD2k1AMhdII/AAAAAAAAVhY/Qu9A2pETIGU7vADP8evkBVTn310bJVHJQCPcB/s1600/DSC_0153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="414" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wq1kt4I2Fmw/WD2k1AMhdII/AAAAAAAAVhY/Qu9A2pETIGU7vADP8evkBVTn310bJVHJQCPcB/s640/DSC_0153.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Needles</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broken tooth</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yrL4Kxw5Ut8/WD2k1JST5MI/AAAAAAAAVhY/AqLKivi2Y-Ajj7HH7Gwe6-qE5jJRc184wCPcB/s1600/DSC01816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yrL4Kxw5Ut8/WD2k1JST5MI/AAAAAAAAVhY/AqLKivi2Y-Ajj7HH7Gwe6-qE5jJRc184wCPcB/s640/DSC01816.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting unbelievably pumped on Unbelievable</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool fingercrack in indian creek</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hard men and women</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paige and the dawg. Indian creek got cold!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-du8R8CjQ5gk/WE-I9o2lu3I/AAAAAAAAV3o/vI0YFU7RunQ-zM5xyGFEhedGmIYsxiThwCPcB/s1600/DSC02052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-du8R8CjQ5gk/WE-I9o2lu3I/AAAAAAAAV3o/vI0YFU7RunQ-zM5xyGFEhedGmIYsxiThwCPcB/s640/DSC02052.jpg" width="413" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Warming up the thighs on skylight #showingofftheass</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mzCTwMnm7Tg/WD2k1Ati4vI/AAAAAAAAVhY/Jh0qvRDRBLM89BXatSYGLLCVzYE2aQjwwCPcB/s1600/DSC01804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mzCTwMnm7Tg/WD2k1Ati4vI/AAAAAAAAVhY/Jh0qvRDRBLM89BXatSYGLLCVzYE2aQjwwCPcB/s640/DSC01804.jpg" width="464" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Capt. Ben sending the gnar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oWfJoJJejpA/WE-I9gCY0RI/AAAAAAAAV3o/DY_5Wu-3qdEuxw9Ukg-oUcOJZOspEJWbwCPcB/s1600/DSC02062.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oWfJoJJejpA/WE-I9gCY0RI/AAAAAAAAV3o/DY_5Wu-3qdEuxw9Ukg-oUcOJZOspEJWbwCPcB/s640/DSC02062.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was steep, it was hard and I #sentthegnar #great_success #another_m8_bitesthedust</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Capt. Mark #sendingthegnar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s_74Yk1Wn78/WE-I9lJqySI/AAAAAAAAV3o/8jWVwrInbkg-l4hsFdmno5ffX5gg-fZMgCPcB/s1600/DSC02141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s_74Yk1Wn78/WE-I9lJqySI/AAAAAAAAV3o/8jWVwrInbkg-l4hsFdmno5ffX5gg-fZMgCPcB/s640/DSC02141.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Splitter on Moonlight!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ECoPsyraLIY/WELzWaN6G1I/AAAAAAAAVo0/QxXuhcmFkvsANmufoaOD-_cphpurwHoOQCPcB/s1600/brian-19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ECoPsyraLIY/WELzWaN6G1I/AAAAAAAAVo0/QxXuhcmFkvsANmufoaOD-_cphpurwHoOQCPcB/s640/brian-19.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For a good workout we climbed this pitch with hands on the first lap, than two more laps drytooling with axes. Gets you PUMPED! #noethicsbro</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3FjoYbj2cA/WELzWdTzpiI/AAAAAAAAVow/knVg-zysbooI3NEedB5ls1n0tmy9BAG_wCPcB/s1600/brian-29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3FjoYbj2cA/WELzWdTzpiI/AAAAAAAAVow/knVg-zysbooI3NEedB5ls1n0tmy9BAG_wCPcB/s640/brian-29.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FML</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian on the way down after climbing the Direct North Face of some peak with a knee deep powder approach.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sending the mixed route that I could only get up with hangs last January. Felt great. (M8ish)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ouray</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ouray, not indian creek</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chaz on the last pitch of tricks of the trade (-11)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tricks of the Trade goes up this awesome wall. Badass long climb!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Narrows, Zion NP</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dr-MebuwH8Y/WDN79eoR6OI/AAAAAAAAVXQ/rzsa6tNjDgQs0a-zgwfj77npDlt-iIYHgCPcB/s1600/DSC_0086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dr-MebuwH8Y/WDN79eoR6OI/AAAAAAAAVXQ/rzsa6tNjDgQs0a-zgwfj77npDlt-iIYHgCPcB/s640/DSC_0086.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bryce NP</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zion</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tricks of the Trade</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FML</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#whysosandbagged #thoughtredrockhassoftratings #gotowned #lookedlikeaherooninstagram</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clipping a bolt, FELT AMAZING on this route. Me getting worked on the first lead of the desert trip. #gotwhopped! Photo cred: Joshua Janes</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark crimpin like a manica on some HARD 5.12 pitch in RR. Photo by Joshua Janes </td></tr>
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-87908745720510510192016-10-03T18:40:00.000-07:002016-10-04T20:12:48.738-07:00Solo of The Evolution Crest Traverse (VI 5.9)A few years ago I encountered the report about the traverse of the entire Evolution Crest in the AAJ. It got me excited to cover a whole lot of mountain terrain which would be completely new to me, as it shares only two and a half out of sixteen miles of ridge-climbing with the regular Evolution Traverse. It seemed like attempting to solo it in a series of marathon-like days would be a big step up from the car to car climb of the Evolution Traverse, which I have done in 2013, so naturally it seemed fairly damn intimidating and I procrastinated till beginning of September 2016. <span style="background-color: white; font-family: "small georgia" , "times new roman" , "times" , serif; font-size: 17px;">Ended up with a full package of great views, proper level of exertion, pure fun and 'I wish I had diapers, oh never-mind, too dehydrated to piss myself.'</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "small georgia" , "times new roman" , "times" , serif; font-size: 17px;"> </span><br />
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The full Evo Crest is double the length of the Evolution Traverse and the number of peaks is more than doubled as well. It is hard to tell what is the actual number of summits gained along this traverse as there were many major humps with summit cairns, registers and prominence that made them seem like significant peaks, yet many of them were not named on the maps. But who cares really? My objective was to spend a good chunk of time navigating the Sierra Crest while enjoying the killer views and getting my butt, quads, hamstrings and finger tips worked by all the mileage. The First Ascent party climbed it over eight days with "pre-cached food, fuel and supplies along the way." Since I am not very smart and am too lazy to pre-cache gear, I kept things as simple as possible. The game plan was to carry everything needed and climb as fast as possible - Alpine Style biatch! If I can claim such a thing in the Sierra, since these mountains are not 'real mountains' as some expert will tell ya! Well, I am no real climber too, so as a result, over three days, car to car, the gnar was sent and an incredible experience added to the finite journey we call life. Without boring everyone to death by attempting to communicate how special this experience was, let me simply say YES IT WAS and give some crazies few more reasons to put this climb on the MUST DO list!<br />
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Before the outing, I was not sure if it was a good time investment, as there was only one repeat and not much information about it, yet as usual the mystery was intriguing and added to the lure. I decided to keep it wild by not trying to gather beta from the guys that did the FA and wanted to complicate things further by climbing the traverse in the reversed direction - North to South. I figured if going that way things could only get warmer. :) And how bad could it be?! The views in the Range of Light would compensate for the shittiest rock. Actually on average the rock turned out to be pretty damn good!<br />
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A few additions..<br />
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1) The Full Evo Crest is a BAD ASS CLIMB and my hat is off to the FA party - Scott McCook and Kyle Sox.<br />
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2) It traverses over a whole lot of mountain terrain (did I say that enough?), doing the crux section of the Evo traverse and is a BIG step up in the amount of exertion, difficulty, the gnar factor and requires a lot more route finding skillz to navigate rugged mountain terrain, which varies from stellar to loose.<br />
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3) The only other party to repeat the climb wrote something like "Why do the Evolution traverse, this is so much better!" As someone who has done both, I agree with them. This traverse is VERY WORTH REPEATING, especially if you have done the Evo and are looking to step it up.<br />
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<i><b><span style="background-color: white;">"</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px;">Between Bishop Pass to the south (12,000’) and Piute Pass to the north (11,400’) is a continuously high ridge, unbroken by any major gap and uncrossed by any established trail. The traverse ascends 10 major peaks and a dozen additional summits, crosses five technical notches, and traverses over six of the high summit plateaus that give this section of the Sierra a unique character. The elevation hovers near 13,000’ and includes peaks such as Mt. Goode, Mt. Gilbert, Mt. Thompson, Mt. Powell, Mt. Haeckel, Mt. Darwin, and Mt. Lamarck."</span></b></i><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px;">http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212594/Bishop-Pass-to-Piute-Pass-Evolution-Crest-Traverse-previously-unreported</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Day 1</b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px;"> I 'misunderestimated' this day, big time. The only thing I got right is the load of pastries from the bakery's discount lot and the amount of coffee with a shot of hazelnut low-T enhancer. From looking at the map, it seemed like an easy stroll from the North Lake trail-head to Piute Pass and the traverse over to Lamarck col did not look too rugged. So I started hiking from the trailhead not as early as I should have. As I scrambled further along the ridge-line, some of the down-climbs and sections of technical climbing turned out very serious as I tried to keep the climbing to the crest of the ridge. I remember one down-climb as being actually overhanging and fairly loose, which was exciting for someone climbing without a rope. Almost as exciting as an exposed traverse around one of the pinnacles, which I was dumb enough to backtrack and climb. That was less than half way in, before I realized how close I will be to being benighted. By some miracle I got to Lamarck col right before the headlamp was needed and the tiny stream of melting snow was enough to collect water, without having to melt it. In the end of this day I was properly worked, yet I did some nigh photography while getting overwhelmed by what is ahead. Seemed like I climbed over about seven peaks only a few of which would be called major. Felt like slightly less than 10K of elevation gain from the trailhead, but who knows...</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Day 2</b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px;">Starting from Lamarck Col early morning I climbed over a little summit above it. It had a cairn but no register. The next summit was unnamed on the map, yet is called Mt. Tom Ross and had a register just off the summit. On the descent from Tom Ross I was doing a sketchy downclimb which required me to jump to a narrow ledge from about 10 feet above it. To help myself stick the landing, I threw my pack down. The pack failed to stick the landing and bounced down the mountain for 300 feet. I was more fortunate, which is a good thing. If I did not stick that landing I would be very very dead now. After downclimbing to the pack I noticed a whole lot of things are fucked up, one of the ones that stood out was my camera. From there all the photos were taken with a phone, which is kind of lame yet no too bad! I continued to Darwin, 13,332, Haeckel, Wallace, Crumbly Spire, Clyde Spire West, Clyde Spire West and bivied close to echo col by a small water source on the west side of the ridge. The climbing was great, yet there was a step between the Crumbly Spire and Clyde Spire West which was heinously loose. This step was rappelled by someone in the past as I found tat right above it. Frightening rock but great views. The chimneying followed by an airy mantle move to the top of the West Clyde Spire was wild! That evening I found out a whole lot of other things that got smashed in the pack. One of which was my mattress. The night kind of sucked. Exertion level was very similar to doing the Evolution traverse in a day, without the approach.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Day 3</b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px;">Was f***ing nuts. Because my mattress got popped, my plan to climb the coming section of the ridge in two days changed to GO FOR THE FINISH. On paper the number of the summits to climb seemed reasonable, yet the mileage was on the extreme side of doable in comparison to the first and the second day. One of the things that indicated that it is possible was my pace on day two - even with all the overnight gear I covered the terrain shared with the Evolution traverse faster than when I climbed it car to car without all the extra weight of the overnight gear. I felt fit and confident to push it. As the day progressed crux sections followed one after another. Mt. Powell dragged on forever, as there are three major parts of it - Pt. John, Pt. Wesley and finally Pt. Powell. A section of the ridge leading to Mt. Thompson had some real gnar, but the crux of the day was getting to Gilbert, which was an especially slow and heinous, very exposed, had great rock and a whole lot of fun. The highlight was committing to a STEEP down-climb on white flakes and black knobs, then seeing a rappell sling off to the side and thinking 'oh crap, that's what the reasonable people do here...' But I survived the down-climb and was on top of Mt. Johnson only a couple of hours before the sunset. Only one peak to go, yet Mt. Goode seemed FAR away. I had no idea what this section was gonna be like and it turned out to have some cool scrambling and a wild finish. After a good ways down and up, as I neared close to what I thought was the summit, the ridge dropped off again! The real summit of Mt Goode was still a good ways ahead. I was stunned, crushed, beat to hell but had no one to whine to, so I down-climbed to a point where I had to move up as quickly as reasonably possible for someone trying to navigate mid 5th class. This section was actually very enjoyable too! Some parts of it were covered in cool black knobs on mostly great white granite. I was actually having a great time, yet the last gendarme ended up being the crux of the Goode's west ridge. I encountered a rappel station, which was bypassed by down-climbing 30 feet with the full exposure of the steep North Face below me. It was a steep, a bit pumpy down-climb on rock that I would not call stellar. After coming home, I checked the MP page and saw that it is described as "</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">what looked to be at least 5.8 down-climbing," by the dude who wisely rappelled there. Yeah, it was not easy and it is hard to put a rating on something done at dusk, with an overnight pack, at the end of the third day of a behemoth climb, while wearing approach shoes...in Yosemite we call it class 3+ bro!</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">THE SUMMIT OF GOODE! Was very dark and uneventful, yet at this point the thing that mattered more is completing the descent to the Bishop pass, which was less exciting in comparison to the down-climb described above. And it took a while. Aside from all the peaks, the high point of the day was crashing in a sandy spot next to a big lake where I had a tea-party, powder-drink party and a food party. There was three extra days of food that I had, so me, myself and I were really happy. The party finished around midnight, yet all the emotions, excitement and lack of a functional mattress kept me sleep-less for most of the night. The internet experts would suggest I bring a different type of a mattress, the kind that does not get popped. Yet I personally would bring the comfortable and light thermarest model again. and hiked </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Following morning I stopped above the scenic Bishop Pass and spread my friend Edward's ashes above it. It was a special moment which reminded me to give my close ones a call as soon as I got reception.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">DAY 1</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Somewhere early in the day</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gnar braj</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That pinnacle was cool</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">DAY 2</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> DAY 3</span><br />
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Soooo screwed, but Prodigy to the rescue<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End of a crazy day. Well maybe another three hours till Bishop Pass.</td></tr>
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Hike Out<br />
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<br />VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-31975770414136837482016-09-14T19:41:00.001-07:002016-09-20T11:31:37.639-07:00Widow's Tears (V WI5) - videoFinally, had some free time to put together the footage from the climb of the Widow's Tears (V WI 5) in Yosemite National Park. Skipped the first 400 feet of lower angle climbing, but included the bulk of the sustained ice. Feel very lucky to get on this climb in ok conditions, on January 1st, 2016. Was so excited about it that I felt comfortable to free solo it, onsight. Was a great way to start the year, in an amazing place..<br />
<br />
I don't know if there are many people who enjoy watching first person videos of rock climbing, ice climbing, or whatever, I personally find them boring. But this route is a fairly iconic climb, that not too many people get to climb. Lots of hype around it all over the place, so maybe someone cares to see it? In addition, this video is very original because unlike 99% of the ice climbing youtube videos, there is no top rope from above! :) It was interesting for me personally to watch it, because it was a pretty cool experience for me haha. In any case, whoever wants to, watch it and enjoy the music, or not. Whatever you do, don't whine about the music...<br />
For those interested in what the route was like, here is a good<br />
<br />
Interview: http://www.accidentalproductions.net/rants-raves-vitaliy-musiyenko/<br />
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Good overview of the route: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/chasing-ice-in-the-valley/111504201<br />
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Media Spray: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16a/newswire-recent-activity-on-big-yosemite-ice-route<br />
http://www.climbing.com/news/famed-widows-tears-ice-climb-soloed/<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cm6kPslOA18<br />
http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/epic-ascent-of-yosemite-s-ephemeral-widow-s-tears<br />
http://www.californiaalpineguides.com/Widows.html<br />
http://www.mammutathleteteam.com/2013/01/widows-tears_21.htmlVividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-83615900781337576082016-09-01T12:08:00.002-07:002016-09-01T14:11:37.517-07:00A Look Within<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Living allows us an opportunity for growth through acquisition of wisdom, exploration of our physical limits, spiritual growth and exertion of our creative side. Mountain-climbing is a <span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">fascinating activity, or a lifestyle, because it is an exercise for all four. The freedom to gaze deep within the soul to face fears, insecurities, but also reveal strengths. How big of a fear can I face? How long of a face to face standoff am I capable of with the ultimate fear? </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">The experiences I personally learned from the most were the ones where I took on challenges that seemed way above my personal limit. Close to the physical and the mental limit. Ones I had to be creative to come up with, ones I had to rise above my ego and admit to myself that there is a chance to fail on an objective of simply putting the time I had into trying. It is hard to reveal the motivations for these as there are too many subconscious factors that play a role, yet without a doubt they all were ideas that I had on my mind and could not escape from. I did not have to push myself towards them, I was pulled in, captivated by the uncertainty and an opportunity. Pulled up to the next level of personal growth, whatever that means. It is hard for an individual to take on challenges like these often. Not only because it would be unhealthy for our mental state, as they require a lot of energy, along with a great dose of ignorance, but because our creativity has to work hard to come up with such ideas. Ideas that push us to take the path untraveled, ignoring the easy way, ignoring the acquired knowledge about what is possible for common men, ignoring the common sense telling me to chill out. </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">It is not easy, but possible, to wake up the warrior hiding deep within the walls of my fears. It may be later in the season than I would like, my body may be a bit more tired than I would like it to be, but welcome to the real world, there is never the perfect time - I can always be better, more rested, more fit, but never perfect, I don't have to be. I have to be strong, I have to be smart, I have to be present and face the enemy within. It shouldn't be easy, it won't take a short time, I wouldn't want it to. The goal is to push the body close to the limit, to meditate in open spaces, to exercise the character, to look within in order to rise above of what's possible, be who I am supposed to be - a warrior. Get to the point where I can't take it no more, where it is enough and maybe too much, when I run out of energy, then I will find out how much do I really want it. How much do I have in the hidden tank? How much do I really, REALLY want it?! In the world where blog talk is cheap, the hashtags don't matter, the present is real and the decisions are vital, will the stars align with external factors I can't control? Whatever the answer may be, I will learn a lesson and come out a changed man. Alive.</span></span></span></b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span></span></span></span>
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VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-30836678341301951492016-08-29T11:20:00.001-07:002016-08-29T12:17:27.428-07:00Hulk & The Whitney ZoneWhen I thought this season may come to an end without the annual trip to the Hulk, a miracle happened! That miracle was the desire to climb on quality granite without a 20 mile approach. A TRUE MIRACLE! Brian felt the same way, so we packed a few days of food and headed to the Hulk for alpine cragging, or as Brian calls it 'fun climbing.' Unlike always, we got a permit, hiked in and rested without climbing a route on the day of the hike. On the second day we did climbed the Tradewinds, the Sunspot Dihedral and hiked out on the third. To my surprise, even with the fatigue from the Tradewinds, the Sunspot went well enough that I didn't fall off. Though bloody tips and sore muscles don't help on a sustained route of such nature, it helps a lot to delegate the crux pitch to the 25 year old. Maybe in addition to not climbing on a day we hike in, the following trip will have an actual rest day!?!? Probably not.<br />
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Day after the hike out, we made our way to Lone Pine, where I was lucky enough to obtain a permit for the Whtney Zone. To my surprise, it was a fourth time I went there this year, without a problem to obtain a permit (mid week). Yes, I do like to explore the less traveled parts of the range, but since the beginning of the summer I dreamed about climbing the beautiful prow on Mt. Whitney. One between the direct East Face and the Hairline. A route which along with the Hairline seemed like the most aesthetic, blankest, steepest and cleanest line on the wall. A part of the wall I was saving for a trip with my most frequent partner and friend, Brian, who has returned from working in Alaska with the need to crank. To my surprise, the actual climbing did not end up being clean. Mostly dirty, flaky, scary, loose, hard, runout and did I mention shitty and runout? Day after hiking in we started at the bottom of the wall and climbed eight long pitches for approximately 1,400 feet of climbing before reaching the upper part of the regular east face route. We looked at the two pitch head-wall above us. Looked at each other agreed that this climb wasn't something that we would recommend to a friend, or an enemy, even if the headwall above would have four hundred feet of splitter hands, it did not. What we climbed was an interesting adventure. An adventure which had to end, soon. We opted to simul-climb the upper part of the east face and shortly were on the summit, calling the line Happy to be Here (V 5.11-). Likely the third new line on Mt. Whitney this year, yet the least enjoyable of the three. On the positive side, compared to the Hairline next door, Happy to be Here required 0 holes drilled, compared to 44. Trying to climb something big in a day, requires sacrifices, safety at times being one of them. Part of the reason why I find new routes so intriguing is because you shouldn't expect much aside from an adventure. Yet this times I was guilty of creating expectations. Being a human aint easy...One thing that was as amazing as ever, were the views from the top. <br />
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After both of the grade V climbs I have done earlier on Mt. Whitney, they required my partner and I to take a rest day. With 'Happy to be Here' being more difficult than those, a rest day would be nice, yet we were expecting to get on the Harding Route with my friends Cristiano and Brian. When we did not see them at the Iceberg Lake that evening, we thought they must of bailed on the idea and decided to climb the possibly unrepeated Left Wing Extremist V 5.11- (Wilson/Rowell)!Woah, two back to back grade Vs at 14K was not something that seemed pure fun, but Brian has some catching up to do and I was ok with going closer towards the zone of Type 2 fun. The following day we got on the wall and found a few fairly recent bail slings and a nut anchor at the base of the crux. Up above we found some interesting climbing, some flaky crap and very loose sections. Respect to the first ascentionists for managing the thought provoking looseness. By the time we got four or so pitches up, we realized that Cristiano and Brian were climbing the Keeler Needle. Hooting and trundling large blocks, kept the psyche higher than expected, till I got on the sharp end at the base of the giant offwidth. As my TC pro blew out a few days prior, I had to lead the thing with a 5.10 blanco on my outside foot, one I did most of the heel-toeing with. It sucked donkey balls. Thought this one was a more difficult beast in comparison to Twilight Zone but less annoying than the Generator Crack. What does that mean? It means it is an offwidth, at 14K - it sucks. Soon after that, we got to moderate terrain and simul-climbed to the summit. Two days, two big shitty climbs, two interesting experiences and we were ready to move the camp!<br />
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Long story short, we went over to the Arctic Lake Wall, through the Whitney-Russell Col and climbed a really good route over the right side of the big roofs I spied on the trip with Adam. On the first attempt we got rained off from the top of the second pitch, which I was psyched about, almost a real REST DAY! Saved by the bell! The following day, we both felt better, had an earlier start, finished the climb and tagged the summit of Mt. Young! Great fun. After that, we moved camp closer to Russell, in a thunderstorm. However, the sunset was stunning and I am psyched we camped where we did, although it wasn't that much closer compared to the original sight. But the views were stunning and so were the clouds! On our last day we climbed the Western Front (III 5.10), a classic climb on Mt. Russell and hiked out. Even managed to make it out early enough to get a burrito, FINALLY! Four climbs, good times and A LOT of photos..<br />
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="color: lime;">Green</span> - If At First</b> V 5.10+ R (Seth Dilles/Michael Strassman 2003) </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="color: red;">Red</span> - Inyo Face</b> V 5.11 (Austin Siadak/Vitaliy Musiyenko 2016)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="color: yellow;">Yellow</span> - Still Nameless</b> V 5.11 R (Adam Ferro/Vitaliy Musiyenko 2016)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Black - Left Wing Extremist</b> V 5.11- (David Wilson/Galen Rowell 1990)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="color: blue;">Blue</span> - Direct East Face</b> V 5.9 A3 or IV 5.10 c FA: (Denis Rutovitz/Andrzel Ehrenfeucht 1959 FFA Pat Brannan and Bruce Bindner 1992)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="color: #674ea7;">Purple</span> - Happy to be Here</b> 5.11- R (Brian Prince/Vitaliy Musiyenko 2016)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="color: #e69138;">Orange</span> - Hairline</b> V 5.10+ C2F or A3 (Bruce Bindner/Alex <span style="color: #212126;"><span style="color: #212126;">Schmauss 1987)</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="color: #274e13;">Dark Green</span> - East Face III 5.7</b> (regular) </span></span><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span itemscope="" itemtype="http://data-vocabulary.org/Review-aggregate">(Underhill, Eichorn, Dawson, Clyde </span>1931)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>The Great Book </b>IV 5.9 (Gary Colliver/Chris Vandiver 1974), <b>not shown</b>: http://www.summitpost.org/mt-whitney-the-great-book/142875</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="color: cyan;">Aqua</span> - East Buttress</b> III 5.7 (</span></span><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span itemscope="" itemtype="http://data-vocabulary.org/Review-aggregate">Bob Brinton, Glen Dawson, Richard Jones, Howard Koster, Muir Dawson 1939)</span> </span></span><br />
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<br />VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-21946764102901059482016-08-13T15:06:00.002-07:002016-08-13T15:06:46.081-07:00FA: WATSI WALL - THE INFINITY POOL (VI 5.11+ A2 R)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
WOW. Likely a good place to start, as it was the first word I thought of and said when looking down the Tehipite Valley. Imagine the world famous Yosemite Valley, but requiring more than twenty miles of hiking from the nearest trailhead to get to, without the roads, crowds, SAR teams, rangers or people in general. No camp 4, ice cream stands, cell phone reception nor the shitshow scene. A wild place with poison oak, rattlesnakes size of anacondas, the last grizzly bear in the state of California, multiple Native American tribes and dinosaurs. OK, there are no dinosaurs, but I am not kidding when I say the place is FUCKING WILD.</div>
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I have been to a variety of remote parts of the High Sierra and the world, yet the Tehipete Valley made me feel more vulnerable than most. A few hours into the hike, we ran into a couple who has a cabin in the area. "Are you guys packing? There are big rattle snakes down there!" Imagine the size of those things, if people bring firearms for protection! :)<br />
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In mid July of 2015 Daniel Jeffcoach and I decided to check the place out for ourselves. He found a low resolution photo of some supposedly unclimbed wall that seemed to be over two thousand feet tall! Over two thousand feet tall?! Yes, I could not believe it, yet it was further down the valley and across from the biggest dome in the state of CA and likely the biggest granite big wall in the lower 48 - the Tehipete Dome - rising 3,500 feet above the valley floor. To no surprise, all the climbers visiting the place were unable to walk by it. On the other hand, we had the self-control thing dialed and our priorities straight! Seriously though, looking up at the Tehipete Dome made me want to walk further down the valley, towards our modest objective, the smaller big wall.<br />
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We fished, we climbed, we battled hard. On one of the slab pitches Daniel led, he was close to taking a 80 foot fall when his foot started to slide a few feet below the stance he wanted to drill a bolt from. I have no explanation to why the foot stopped sliding, yet I was psyched my sweating hands did not have to pull in loops of slack as Daniel's body cheesegrade past the belay. Hauling out our gear was gonna be a challenge, having to add a 6'4 guy on top of it didn't seem particularly appealing. Below that pitch was a 120 foot lay-back, which accepted only three out of approximately twenty camalots I had on my harness. Lucky for me, it wasn't harder than 5.10a, yet when you are on a first ascent, you have no idea how hard the next move is going to be, the objective is simple, climb up. On the first day we got up a good ways and were shut down by the difficulties approximately three fifths up the formation on the second day. It was a hard pill to swallow, yet to bail was a logical choice. We were running out of water while the climbing was only getting harder. We could no longer free climb, nor pull on pieces in order to maintain the necessary pace required to top out. At best, it was gonna take full on aid, but we did not bring the aiders or jumars. The decision was especially tough because it was the only long climbing trip Daniel could afford that year. A five day trip was a luxury for a man with two kids and a family. I personally could have returned in a few weeks without much trouble, yet for my friend it wasn't an option. I value my failures, enjoy them even. They remind me that I am picking appropriate challenges, they allow me to learn lessons, humble me a little and keep things interesting. Being in the mountains is success, yet when I climb with friends without the same amount of time, I want them to go home satisfied. Daniel is a true explorer at heart, so I thought it would take a miracle for him to stay interested in a place that he has already seen.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iMEKvXg5VXY/V67cCEk-T3I/AAAAAAAATCo/A0KJivDocJ0baoOZdcT7RQK6V4AJzWmZgCLcB/s1600/topo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iMEKvXg5VXY/V67cCEk-T3I/AAAAAAAATCo/A0KJivDocJ0baoOZdcT7RQK6V4AJzWmZgCLcB/s640/topo.jpg" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rough outline. About 3000 ft of climbing on a wall whose vertical height I have a hard time estimating. FA: Daniel Jeffcoach, Brian Prince and Vitaliy Musiyenko </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6Rp6IxxkC4w/V66XDMbNg-I/AAAAAAAATB4/hKXCVy5SiIEEufCTSpt0zPfIosq-ayBJwCPcB/s1600/DSC05780-Pano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6Rp6IxxkC4w/V66XDMbNg-I/AAAAAAAATB4/hKXCVy5SiIEEufCTSpt0zPfIosq-ayBJwCPcB/s640/DSC05780-Pano.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daniel and Brian having a quite moment, before the descent into the wild valley</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ic5tqiEN6EQ/V66XDLAKvPI/AAAAAAAATB4/jeBnB1m6Hu8SJdmoYQPfsRpr3hXHnA7fwCPcB/s1600/DSC05844-Pano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ic5tqiEN6EQ/V66XDLAKvPI/AAAAAAAATB4/jeBnB1m6Hu8SJdmoYQPfsRpr3hXHnA7fwCPcB/s640/DSC05844-Pano.jpg" width="520" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishing!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bKRB26aqUTg/V66XDDwIaqI/AAAAAAAATB4/QQaMaOmRa0kDNg45wXzYzobp_Bpr6txVQCPcB/s1600/DSC06090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bKRB26aqUTg/V66XDDwIaqI/AAAAAAAATB4/QQaMaOmRa0kDNg45wXzYzobp_Bpr6txVQCPcB/s640/DSC06090.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool pool on the descent down the Crystal Creek - my first time canyoneering! :)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O5wbpUWlW_E/V66XDBZzsNI/AAAAAAAATB4/-C2GM5Hmh34iLOzeOnv8XrJHL_-n3omWwCPcB/s1600/DSC05811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O5wbpUWlW_E/V66XDBZzsNI/AAAAAAAATB4/-C2GM5Hmh34iLOzeOnv8XrJHL_-n3omWwCPcB/s640/DSC05811.jpg" width="412" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Obvious why most people don't walk by the Tehipete Dome.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GYE5jrZrWn4/V66XDFSVSdI/AAAAAAAATB4/XfkBTnJO0xsVsTrob202RcckQyEwLFaOwCPcB/s1600/DSC05834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GYE5jrZrWn4/V66XDFSVSdI/AAAAAAAATB4/XfkBTnJO0xsVsTrob202RcckQyEwLFaOwCPcB/s640/DSC05834.jpg" width="586" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me getting a good look at the wall we were going to attempt</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d4RiIPGtuGQ/V66XDCWOqkI/AAAAAAAATB4/d1u6W-uvBhwwVgb5TUSY8V1UvKwjHA2vACPcB/s1600/DSC05858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d4RiIPGtuGQ/V66XDCWOqkI/AAAAAAAATB4/d1u6W-uvBhwwVgb5TUSY8V1UvKwjHA2vACPcB/s640/DSC05858.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daniel SENT the gnar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jGo3tOqntww/V66XDBXKd1I/AAAAAAAATB4/sPDNPk5O2DUVvDnCxD6KBF1Cc1wPy5NEgCPcB/s1600/DSC05860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="460" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jGo3tOqntww/V66XDBXKd1I/AAAAAAAATB4/sPDNPk5O2DUVvDnCxD6KBF1Cc1wPy5NEgCPcB/s640/DSC05860.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_BDWq9IkJuc/V66WgI0c4wI/AAAAAAAATBs/n0Bc1C4DR4UIIyrLYwWltDd3oaUIbrbpwCPcB/s1600/DSC05962.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_BDWq9IkJuc/V66WgI0c4wI/AAAAAAAATBs/n0Bc1C4DR4UIIyrLYwWltDd3oaUIbrbpwCPcB/s640/DSC05962.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The milky way. Night photography was a good way to make the time pass in our two-butt bivy</td></tr>
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In 2016 we managed to work out a miracle. Literally! In order to do so, I had to cancel a trip to Alaska with Brian, Chaz and Adam, which was a big sacrifice. However, all of them were happy with the trips we did instead. With Chaz, we established a close to two thousand foot route on the unclimbed NW face of Clarence King (IV-V 5.11) along with two cool routes on an unclimbed NW face of Mt. Gardiner (IV 5.10- and IV 5.11- R). With Adam, we did a new route on the sheer East Face of Mt. Whitney (V 5.11 R), two new routes on the NE face of Mt. Hitchcock (IV 5.11 and IV 5.11-) and a fun route on the Arctic Lake Wall (III 5.10). As a good friend and the organizer of the aborted outing to Alaska, Brian got the bigger slice of cake, an invitation to join the trip to Tehipite! Lucky for us, he accepted. :)<br />
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Three knuckleheads, one fishing pole and a bunch of gear. We split the approach in two shorter days in order to feel less worked when we get on the wall. Not sure how many climbing parties carried own climbing gear out there, but for me hauling own shit is a habit. Never employed porters or mules, yet to tell you the truth, I wouldn't mind a helicopter. Credit where the credit is due, Daniel's friend Norm, hiked out there a day earlier to see what the hell we were up to and took a part of our rack to help out. Thanks Norm! <br />
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Aside from spending time with two of my favorite partners and guys I have the honor to call friends, one of the highlights of the outing was the fishing! Before I got into climbing I loved to fish.Taught by my grandfather in the Ukraine as a nine years old, it was one of the few activities I had that made me appreciate nature. Since then, I fished mostly for carp and catfish, but fishing for bass was also enjoyable, as the thrill was higher. Compared to the last year, I killed it fly fishing, catching four trout compared to only one last summer. Fly fishing is way harder than the regular fishing I am used to. Kind of like trad climbing vs bouldering, much more expensive gear and a variety of new techniques to learn. Makes me want to purchase a fly fishing set up, yet I know I don't take enough rest days to use it. Editing photos, taking an online class and reading has been more than enough to keep me occupied lately! Daniel and I hiked further down the valley, as I tried to pick up a few tricks from the master. One of the fish he hooked got swallowed by a giant brown trout! It was a sight to watch and the adrenaline rush he received must have been comparable to the nearly 80 foot fall a year prior. Unfortunately the giant brown cut the line and got away, but no big deal, we had enough for our small army. Because Daniel had a load of food, he let Brian and I have all the fish on the second day, preferring a packet of tuna instead. Even though we both had plenty of food too, refusing freshly caught trout, a day prior to getting on an intimidating big-wall, did not seem like an option either of us would consider.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R_awmhInGpE/V66XDM_DurI/AAAAAAAATB4/iXqrvrZP_-o6fdcL277fc25pXsGo4dshQCPcB/s1600/DSC06087-Pano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R_awmhInGpE/V66XDM_DurI/AAAAAAAATB4/iXqrvrZP_-o6fdcL277fc25pXsGo4dshQCPcB/s640/DSC06087-Pano.jpg" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the pools in Crystal Creek</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7TPAc7N_SaU/V66XDCvrolI/AAAAAAAATB4/PNVC_MejlcA_IEyPDcgbFuiifdgLmsNfQCPcB/s1600/DSC05985-Pano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7TPAc7N_SaU/V66XDCvrolI/AAAAAAAATB4/PNVC_MejlcA_IEyPDcgbFuiifdgLmsNfQCPcB/s640/DSC05985-Pano.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tehipete Valley panorama as seen in the morning, from our bivy ledge. INCREDIBLE. Or simply WOW.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JH9MpgcDh5A/V66XDMoVR6I/AAAAAAAATB4/-SvqeqlG_P0xhLPx97BUgaF409IadkheACPcB/s1600/DSC06210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JH9MpgcDh5A/V66XDMoVR6I/AAAAAAAATB4/-SvqeqlG_P0xhLPx97BUgaF409IadkheACPcB/s640/DSC06210.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying to improve my B&W skills</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-azZSxRIDYzU/V66XDK2b_9I/AAAAAAAATB4/0NVngcealdUFr9mUwaLzoPvDPsVWVkSqgCPcB/s1600/DSC06206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="452" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-azZSxRIDYzU/V66XDK2b_9I/AAAAAAAATB4/0NVngcealdUFr9mUwaLzoPvDPsVWVkSqgCPcB/s640/DSC06206.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The approach is actually kind of cool. Aside from being very long.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sXr_TITYY9o/V66XDEqJ1BI/AAAAAAAATB4/nZQyfn4tJXku2fA-uzWAsCUqq6sEvs16wCPcB/s1600/DSC06198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sXr_TITYY9o/V66XDEqJ1BI/AAAAAAAATB4/nZQyfn4tJXku2fA-uzWAsCUqq6sEvs16wCPcB/s640/DSC06198.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">P O!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our modest aid rack to the rescue</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gnV3bEieE7g/V66XDNQbH0I/AAAAAAAATB4/TFBZ8hgXC2MuDSaaYpW-B54XHSd5c6xXgCPcB/s1600/DSC05868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="344" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gnV3bEieE7g/V66XDNQbH0I/AAAAAAAATB4/TFBZ8hgXC2MuDSaaYpW-B54XHSd5c6xXgCPcB/s640/DSC05868.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yum</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking towards the dreamy pools</td></tr>
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Day started as planned. We got busy with climbing by 6 am, blasting pitch after pitch with good speed. To make the runouts more reasonable, we put the male ego aside and added three bolts to the runout pitches a day prior. Some people get enraged by the thought of someone adding bolts to their brave leads of the past, yet we end up "dumbing down" our own route without much hesitation. Instead of cutting right to the easier corners that went at 5.9 and 5.10 we took a direct line up crack systems and slab that went at 5.11. On one of those pitches I fortunately drilled a bolt 40 feet out from my last piece of gear. Fortunately because as I went for a seemingly better hold out of reach, my foot slipped and I busted my chin into the granite wall as my body fell only to be caught by the rope. Even though there was a bit of blood coming out of the seemingly little wound, I couldn't let it affect my climbing, as we had a lot of terrain to cover before stopping would be acceptable. I got right back on the pitch, climbed up to the stance where I stance drilled the bolt from and made it to a good hold using a slightly different sequence. The feet smears seemed featureless and I was surprised with the ability to keep my balance right after the stress of a fall. Further up the pitch a foothold broke and I nearly took another fall, yet my fingers were able to hold on to a sloping hold while my feet quickly shuffled to a desperate smear.<br />
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Regrouping on the big ledge, we decided I would take the next three out of four pitches to our previous high point, as Brian and Daniel divided the first seven pitches to start the route. From there, we would switch the leader once again. When Daniel mentioned using a hook for a belay on one of the (exciting, with the first pro about 40 or more feet off the deck) pitches, I did not think much of it, I didn't remember the gear there being particularly bad, yet it took me about 15 minutes to construct somewhat of a safe belay. Somewhat safe...NOT! As one of them shifted at the belay, one of the bomber-looking placements crushed the rock around it and nearly popped out. It was being held in the crack by two lobes and no it wasn't a totem cam. The three of us had a little panic as the other part of the anchor was a micronut and a tiny offset in a semi-detached flake. It is hard to describe the terror that we experienced up there with words, yet I likely set a speed record for the fastest drilled bolt on the climb and while reaching for the blow tube Brian had a moment of brilliance "just hammer the fucking thing in for god's sake." It is scary to think that a year ago it was likely the first gear placement to protect 5.10+ climbing off the belay, most bomber piece of which was the hook!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">View towards TD during the night. Too bad I did not bring the shutter release! :)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How we felt in the morning</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian pulling over the roof above the ledge</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me finding the way into the chimney</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian in the final chimney!</td></tr>
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I was glad to leave the belay and place a few widgets into hollow sounding flakes. For the first time in the last hour I felt somewhat safe. Best part about the pitch was getting to a part I aided a year ago, yet pulled hard and was able to free climb at about 5.11+. I bypassed the shitty belay ledge with runout low 5.10 climbing off the deck and linked into the next pitch, with a much better ledge, more important a much better anchor. Daniel swong into the next pitch, which had a fun pendulum to the anchor below another pitch I took which got us back to the highpoint. We were psyched to reach it with a few hours of daylight left and got out our secret weapon - Brian! He decided to climb up a different corner in hopes it would be more promising than our choice a year ago. Observing him execute desperate moves into a shitty stance about 20 feet above his last placement, I asked "are you ok up there? Watching you Brian!" "Yeah," he replied, "it looks fucking blank above me, I'M GONNA GO FOR IT!" Yeah that's Brian. After my lead block ended, the pain in the chin and the headache was no longer covered up by the intense focus on the importance to move with efficiency. I was belaying Brian on top of a nice ledge, happy to not be up there facing stress of the sharp end. It is hard to accurately describe the experience of climbing far above the last gear, some of which very questionable, in a remote place like the Tehipite Valley, with horrible consequences in case of a slip. To do so without making the situation sound dramatized, is a very difficult task for me personally - Vitaliy the author - as when I am Vitaliy the climber, I face fear constantly and have to keep control over my mind in order to stay calm enough to function. I find it hard to describe something partially blocked off by my consciousness, to the reader, as at times it could seem exaggerated to me from the point of view of a climber. Sad truth is that we are climbers while in the zone, climbing, and only when we are climbing. Trying to describe our raw experiences can be an important step to us personally, to understand them better, but to keep some dignity, it is hard to draw the line early enough to prevent the narrative into cheap pornography, yet giving proper justice to the moment.<br />
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Brian got up to the belay and I turned into a climber for a bit, admiring his lead on the follow. Last part of the pitch was a pendulum for the leader. Brian was apologetic that for me it was going to be something like a sideways fall, yet it was a much better option than facing the consequences he faced while leading out into the unknown. It looked completely blank above us, with a roof above a crackless groove. We traversed a large ledge system to a larger part of the ledge. Above us was a similar overhang without much features which would inspire hope of pulling over it without having to drill a bolt ladder. Daniel tried to clean out a dirty seam in order to get across to another ledge fifty feet higher to the right. He did, yet found nothing useful for upward progress. He rapelled back to the ledge from the bush. While Daniel was on his lead Brian and I discussed the only way that appeared semi possible, yet still kind of hopeless. I did my best to be positive, "we got where we wanted to be, above the high point on a bivy ledge, with the food and the water for the night! Tomorrow we will see what the valley looks like from the summit!" The conversations we had were not filled with sincere positive emotion, yet fake excitement is better than honest hopelessness. Brian was gonna try this pitch with the full on aid rack and ladders and got the first fifty feet done before lowering back to the ledge from his high point.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edward Lau continues to ascent peaks.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">WEEEEEEEEEEE</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The infinity pool. Can I use the word 'awesome' one more time?! </td></tr>
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It wasn't a plush bivy, yet it worked out. Daniel found an exhilarating spot on the edge. Brian and I sat with our feet stretched above the void. To make the time pass I practiced a bit of night photography and tried to capture the milky way, partially hidden by the overhang straight above. To my surprise we got some sleep in and in the morning the secret weapon found the solution to the overhang, without a bolt ladder. Tricky mix of free climbing, aid and a pendulum got Brian over the left edge and onto a giant ledge, from which we continued our assault. My internal confidence did not intensify till we were in the big open chimney, approximately five hundred feet below the summit. I could not believe we were within a striking distance. All of us really were completely stunned to be on top. Just a bit over 3,000 feet of climbing distance, counting the traverses, on likely the largest unclimbed granite wall in the lower 48. A dream come true. An experience of a lifetime, a fucking fairy tale! Yes, the climb did not seem real, along with the descent. A likely canyoneering first descent down Crystal Creek - an incredibly beautiful slot canyon that allowed us to fully hydrate, take a bunch of photos and slide into heavenly pools. I said it before and I will re-enforce it here, the heaven is here, on earth. Along with hell. It is a personal choice for most individuals, although not all, which one to move forward. Concentrating on the negativity of the daily grind won't get you closer to a place like Crystal Creek, so choose your Infinity Pool wisely. <br />
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Few hours later, we crossed the North Fork of Kings River and were back at camp. Enjoying the extra food and trying to take in what we have experienced. It was one of the few outings that will likely provide lessons for Vitaliy, the person, for years to come, so it was important for me to document the events and the emotions, in writing along with the visual slides captured by our cameras. For a long time I thought of a proper way to end the written part of the report, yet I am back to where I started. WOW.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PFKgp6Z0lJA/V66XDG97y2I/AAAAAAAATB4/ERUlwdsetuMAQrMM9ibQHGaYZDlpBi3TACPcB/s1600/DSC05817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="414" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PFKgp6Z0lJA/V66XDG97y2I/AAAAAAAATB4/ERUlwdsetuMAQrMM9ibQHGaYZDlpBi3TACPcB/s640/DSC05817.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The horseshoe brought us luck! Well at least it is a eastern block superstition..</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tLU_foMFAyo/V66XDAAyi8I/AAAAAAAATB4/gjaA-giGEKMf6Yu1c2-8ygiJK99IBFo9QCPcB/s1600/DSC06211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tLU_foMFAyo/V66XDAAyi8I/AAAAAAAATB4/gjaA-giGEKMf6Yu1c2-8ygiJK99IBFo9QCPcB/s640/DSC06211.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not sure if I like the color or the black and white shot of these trees better?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q4bbr-82Qtk/V66XDHlCr8I/AAAAAAAATB4/gVSqXAyeHVspiEzh90p63seMWyfGGBLLwCPcB/s1600/DSC06215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q4bbr-82Qtk/V66XDHlCr8I/AAAAAAAATB4/gVSqXAyeHVspiEzh90p63seMWyfGGBLLwCPcB/s640/DSC06215.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way out</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RRihGrGdOAM/V66XDL658HI/AAAAAAAATB4/aHaEwVf9fjkJSekcMYZouzfvPJeccSGRQCPcB/s1600/DSC06172-Pano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RRihGrGdOAM/V66XDL658HI/AAAAAAAATB4/aHaEwVf9fjkJSekcMYZouzfvPJeccSGRQCPcB/s640/DSC06172-Pano.jpg" width="530" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dreamy place.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0aCPbNebyeE/V66XDPkE5ZI/AAAAAAAATB4/i3m5zwRDuKEu_3MMaX-dRjVXn3tJkVsIQCPcB/s1600/DSC05797.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0aCPbNebyeE/V66XDPkE5ZI/AAAAAAAATB4/i3m5zwRDuKEu_3MMaX-dRjVXn3tJkVsIQCPcB/s640/DSC05797.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Till another time!</td></tr>
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<br />VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-35825393302806669732016-08-02T15:25:00.003-07:002016-08-02T15:25:55.202-07:00Natural Beauty of the Sierra NevadaIt is a shame this blog has not been updated, as the last month have been FILLED with backcountry outings. For the first time in my life I did not need to work and put 80% of my time into climbing and getting a few photos along the way. Maybe that's why so many pro climbers don't spent as much time online as the weekend warriors do? Why waste time when you can climb all day?!<br />
As planned, the employed life will not begin till the end of February of 2017, unless I win a lottery. Which means I should not post a lot, till I am dreaming about climbing things in-front of the stupid box.<br />
Won't say much in this blog, as I STILL have no time for yapping, but linking photos out of my google account is very simple. Whoever checks this place - enjoy your monthly dose of the Sierra! :)<br />
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<br />VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-84827488363758060752016-06-10T09:33:00.000-07:002016-06-10T09:52:27.259-07:00First Ascent on the Happy Dome: Man in Heat (2,000 ft 5.8 R)<span style="color: #231f20; font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 18.4px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Daniel and I wanted to get up to the dome above the North Dome, in the Kings Canyon, for a LONG time. Neither of us knew if it was ever climbed, nor did anyone we asked. The approach seemed long, tricky, filled with bushwhacking, rattlesnakes, sea monsters and all the other things that keep the herds out of SEKI. From far away the rock did not seem to be of the highest quality neither..well at least that's what I told everyone who asked me about that wall. We procrastinated for a long time, so long that it took several trips up the North Sentinel to remind us about the existence of the mysterious wall. As the most of the outings with Daniel, we had a great time! It is hard to describe a day like this, as words won’t do it justice. The approach gained about 3,000 ft. There was not much bushwhacking, no rattlesnakes or sea monsters. The climb ended up being very moderate on great rock. Highly featured, yet the features were sloping enough to keep the leader engaged without losing too much focus, yet moving over stone. We did ten full pitches, some with the need to simul climb in order to make a natural anchor. Great views, great climbing, great partner. Maybe I can even say partners. I brought some of Eddie's ashes up with me for the second outing in a row and spread them over the Kings Canyon. We had a great day and his positive spirit was present, so we named the formation The Happy Dome. Since it was a second time I spread his ashes in the area of Kings Canyon, the next time should be somewhere new, hopefully the High SIerra. To cap off the great day, we got back to the car by 5 PM and jumped in the COLD river. It was a HOT day and the name of the route is very appropriate - Man in Heat (IV 5.8 R), pun intended. :)</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North Dome with Happy Dome above it</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zoomed in photo of the Happy Dome. Route goes pretty much up the middle</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #231f20; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 18.4px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-8470553744705228602016-06-10T09:17:00.000-07:002016-06-10T09:46:42.204-07:00New Routin' on the North Sentinel (pt. 2)<span style="background-color: white; color: #231f20; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 18.4px; white-space: pre-wrap;">The first trip to the North Sentinel (AKA the Silver Spade) led to almost two full new routes, both of which followed crack systems of high quality. Yet, there were still a load of unanswered questions. The main concern was the obvious splitter on the left side of the formation. How wide is it and is it even possible to get to the base?! Brian and I wanted answers and convinced our partners Caitlin and Chaz to go for another party wall. Aside from the cluster in the end of the day, things went smooth. The approach to the base of the approach pitch took 40 minutes. I found a long pitch of clean hand jamming in a corner for a rope stretching pitch two. Caitlin took us through the only pitch that I didn't totally enjoy, but it got us to the beginning of an INCREDIBLE corner system. The corner system ended up being so good, that instead of traversing into the said splitter, we climbed to the top of the formation. Chaz had the 40 meter glory pitch, I did a squeeze chimney and pulled over the wide overhang crux (5.10+?) and Brian took the last pitch to the top of the route. From there we rapelled back into the corner, below the traverse out of it. From there it required bolting an anchor to the side of the splitter before climbing it. Brian onsighted through the powerful curvy fingercrack and to a steep ledge, which was traversed with aid of sick heel hooks. From there I took a 5.10+ish pumpfest to the top, where I spread some of Eddie's ashes. Due to the incredible quality of the crack we discovered we decided to dedicate the climb to Eddie and dubbed it the Eddie's Crack. Don't think I climbed a granite splitter as good anywhere else. And yes, I have done the Pea Soup at the Needles!
The following day, Caitlin and I went up to finish the route Daniel and Adam started a few weeks back. After an approach pitch (35 meters 5.10), three LONG and VERY good pitches (5.10a, 5.10a and 5.8 or 9) took us to the spot where high winds forced them to bail. Next 25 feet ended up being the crux (5.10cish) of the route. After that, the angle kicked back, but the quality stayed great. I continued on for about 65 meters (we had a 70M rope) and built a belay below an OW finish, where all routes merge. Even though we did not bring any cam bigger than 4.5 inches and the crack was a 6 inch OW, I didn't have much trouble doing the 5.8-9 splitter without gear. Practice on artificial cracks in the climbing gym helped a lot! We rappelled the line of ascent and IMO that is the best way off the formation, as it allows you to stash water, packs and food at the base and leave the approach shoes behind. I don't like climbing with a load of extra shit, so to me it makes the most sense. The second option would be to hike towards the base of the Grand Sentinel and hike off using the main gulley. In the future years climbs on this formation will likely become very popular and those who come to climb already have several options. Another must is a dip in the South Fork of Kings River. Refreshing to say the least!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green - Eddie's Crack III - IV 5.10+<br />Blue - Eddie's Crack 70 M splitter variation 5.11c<br />Red FML Crack IV 5.11 C0<br />Pink - Chasing The Wind III-IV 5.10</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">North Sentinel from "Happy Dome"<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #231f20; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 18.4px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-90267846913344013412016-05-31T17:19:00.004-07:002016-06-06T12:28:49.759-07:00FA of the North Sentinel via FML (IV 5.11 C1) <br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif; font-size: 16px;">The North Sentinel is a striking wall, yet supposedly unclimbed. Likely due to a much larger Grant Sentinel towering above it. Climbed or not, Brian Prince, Daniel Jeffcoach, Brandon Thau and I established the first known route to ascent it's sheer Northwest Face in early May of 2016. To our luck we took a continuous crack system which was taken from the bottom of the wall to the pyramidical summit pinnacle. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;">We decided to climb the route as a party of four so that we could get to know Brandon, as it was the first time Daniel, Brian and I climbed with him. We managed to avoid most of the cluster-fucks and climb with some efficiency - the leader would tag a line and bring up the two followers, one of which would belay the new leader and the other would bring up the fourth. #stillclusterfuckedit </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;">Most of the belays were cozy and fun - as fun as watching someone battle a hard offwidth could get. After two approach pitches (5.10 and 5.11) we got to the base of the crack systems we scoped. Brandon climbed a pitch to the base of a beautiful splitter, which turned out to be a flaring crack which transformed into a seam fifty feet up from the belay. I bailed from the base and decided to take the wide system to the right. There, I bailed again. Not comfortable running it out up a thin layback flake, I went into a slightly overhanging offwidth of varied #5 size. With two #5s on our rack, a splitter offwidth seemed appealing. I pushed the cam along as I made slow progress and at some point found a nice calf jam so that I could shake out. To my disappointment, the crack never got big enough to knee-jam, although I lost a good amount of skin trying. The crux was transitioning into the chimney, where I found varied, clean climbing inside. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-criCFQxW88k/V0ut0kIIGXI/AAAAAAAARBw/NtjLkUjFOrkKqW1iw-8WD-iWgTPOoIUKACKgB/s1600/P1260728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-criCFQxW88k/V0ut0kIIGXI/AAAAAAAARBw/NtjLkUjFOrkKqW1iw-8WD-iWgTPOoIUKACKgB/s640/P1260728.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daniel found REAL climbing on the 40 meter approach pitch. He is not posing! :)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V5Xf_kJOfOc/V0ut0pPf7tI/AAAAAAAARBw/ZTb-5Ztr2kMCl-tkNyb5uokNJZKivvpLACKgB/s1600/P1260720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V5Xf_kJOfOc/V0ut0pPf7tI/AAAAAAAARBw/ZTb-5Ztr2kMCl-tkNyb5uokNJZKivvpLACKgB/s640/P1260720.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North Sentinel. The chimney system and the big OW tops out pretty much in the middle of the wall (in this photo)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Brian throwing down some SEKI gang sighns</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brandon and Daniel</td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yoVnOWelmXo/V0ut0nWGeCI/AAAAAAAARBw/mjpmoRZJBh0JpEe02Sm0ajgwEBaPighbwCKgB/s1600/P1260715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yoVnOWelmXo/V0ut0nWGeCI/AAAAAAAARBw/mjpmoRZJBh0JpEe02Sm0ajgwEBaPighbwCKgB/s640/P1260715.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Crack into nowhere</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ykRwFlf1x8A/V0ut0h7EdbI/AAAAAAAARBc/OAio6ki0a4QJTFssws0SbQsod7EM3arYwCKgB/s1600/P1260805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ykRwFlf1x8A/V0ut0h7EdbI/AAAAAAAARBc/OAio6ki0a4QJTFssws0SbQsod7EM3arYwCKgB/s640/P1260805.jpg" width="482" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Called it FML for a reason!! :)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kZnKnvw4HoE/V08KYSeOKOI/AAAAAAAARCc/O-bpTh0G4b89UKjnE0K0-AGZ5a4T9q0eQCLcB/s1600/sek3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kZnKnvw4HoE/V08KYSeOKOI/AAAAAAAARCc/O-bpTh0G4b89UKjnE0K0-AGZ5a4T9q0eQCLcB/s640/sek3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on a little pinnacle on top of the route</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CSUnG_b0lko/V08LjTE6qJI/AAAAAAAARCs/GGMYA2l8hwsLvRu30HHHtAQlx5ztR6wYQCLcB/s1600/seki5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CSUnG_b0lko/V08LjTE6qJI/AAAAAAAARCs/GGMYA2l8hwsLvRu30HHHtAQlx5ztR6wYQCLcB/s640/seki5.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our route is the yellow line. Approach pitches not shown.</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;">On most long first ascents one ends up bringing more gear than necessary, as the required rack is a mystery. Having an extra piece in possession is usually better than needing to place a bolt or having to tag up the piece from the belay ledge, but having a #6 cam crushing your balls in a squeeze is something I will avoid in the future.... </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;">Brian took the next pitch, which had more awesome climbing. Slightly annoying because we had to perform a pendulum in order to connect to a neighboring crack systems, as the one we climbed ended. I was happy to follow this pitch as some of the climbing was fairly damn cruxy and likely much more fun on top rope! :) Same could be said for the following pitch. We had to drill a bolted anchor on the bottom and the top of it and our doubles in #5 and 6 inch cams were not enough to protect this beast! Brandon took the sharp end and I was happy to climb in a team of four, as talking shit from the safety of belay and following on top rope was much better than leding! The crux was a overhanging tipped out #6 size. #burlbrah. I barely got this spot clean while following and thought it was about a 5.11 Odub. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinHEjnemQXQ1jd_ICBespL-aSgNsyC1FO_boY2hCcq1Jrs18GFu3it0-gW6bMBEUMnDJFw-Fsg7QerWSVk233_1pF0j-rmlToZFZ9kmo5EY3RJQu34VsoJHQxLH56LMwYy03Oa8OdsGVSL/s1600/Sek1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinHEjnemQXQ1jd_ICBespL-aSgNsyC1FO_boY2hCcq1Jrs18GFu3it0-gW6bMBEUMnDJFw-Fsg7QerWSVk233_1pF0j-rmlToZFZ9kmo5EY3RJQu34VsoJHQxLH56LMwYy03Oa8OdsGVSL/s640/Sek1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfect looking splitter, unfortunately far from perfect for rock climbing</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Q7VYOFq2lQ/V08KmvOE0SI/AAAAAAAARCk/VKKxoo36Ccg8oKXsK7B8lqie9G0LHab2gCLcB/s1600/Sek2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Q7VYOFq2lQ/V08KmvOE0SI/AAAAAAAARCk/VKKxoo36Ccg8oKXsK7B8lqie9G0LHab2gCLcB/s640/Sek2.jpg" width="482" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting into the #5 slightly overhanging Odub through laying it back in the beginning</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T8QVazhGCzQ/V0ut0iicyOI/AAAAAAAARBo/rd_ZH4Jpmnkr6pqt-__Y814uwxl_7pxDgCKgB/s1600/P1260748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T8QVazhGCzQ/V0ut0iicyOI/AAAAAAAARBo/rd_ZH4Jpmnkr6pqt-__Y814uwxl_7pxDgCKgB/s640/P1260748.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RF7i4JMpwuU/V0ut0kKI9TI/AAAAAAAARBo/U_xRhRus_dUBVIDjR8VqzYH6FjoFMGJoQCKgB/s1600/P1260755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="390" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RF7i4JMpwuU/V0ut0kKI9TI/AAAAAAAARBo/U_xRhRus_dUBVIDjR8VqzYH6FjoFMGJoQCKgB/s640/P1260755.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPu6ofO4jw0/V0ut0gCAVPI/AAAAAAAARBw/h3ocu94CuQQADAaIr_hp72B4NLIOPbKJQCKgB/s1600/P1260741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPu6ofO4jw0/V0ut0gCAVPI/AAAAAAAARBw/h3ocu94CuQQADAaIr_hp72B4NLIOPbKJQCKgB/s640/P1260741.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brandon figuring out the high feet beta on the crux below the main chimney system.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CouPpmWSCgQ/V0ut0kH_Q-I/AAAAAAAARBo/jaZuIft3omACJTRMdbDFcvoNNdN1bMr1ACKgB/s1600/P1260766.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CouPpmWSCgQ/V0ut0kH_Q-I/AAAAAAAARBo/jaZuIft3omACJTRMdbDFcvoNNdN1bMr1ACKgB/s640/P1260766.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chimney makes you grasp for air</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L1HgqExor7U/V0ut0pgDK3I/AAAAAAAARBo/in_axj_ipmoYeDiYeL-_ttubRqxRTQbpQCKgB/s1600/P1260771.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L1HgqExor7U/V0ut0pgDK3I/AAAAAAAARBo/in_axj_ipmoYeDiYeL-_ttubRqxRTQbpQCKgB/s640/P1260771.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian on the pitch to the base of the big OW</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-53Mgyuf9U48/V0ut0tM83LI/AAAAAAAARBc/-6xQ8UJp11IAS7lFp01da0UokeQ6jPcJQCKgB/s1600/P1260794.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-53Mgyuf9U48/V0ut0tM83LI/AAAAAAAARBc/-6xQ8UJp11IAS7lFp01da0UokeQ6jPcJQCKgB/s640/P1260794.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brandon about to get into it. To bad you can't see the whole thing. I can summarize it though...about 40 meters of 5 to tipped out 6 camalots with a few bulges and overhangs. MEGA CLEAN and SPLITTER though. One of the best OWs I climbed outdoors. This route was like the mini steck salathe on steroids.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-innSzmuH1OQ/V0ut0qN0-UI/AAAAAAAARBc/h6dbmbkiDCEaB39vYoc2gzhUQVTmsAa0wCKgB/s1600/P1260784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-innSzmuH1OQ/V0ut0qN0-UI/AAAAAAAARBc/h6dbmbkiDCEaB39vYoc2gzhUQVTmsAa0wCKgB/s640/P1260784.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1qu-_0MgEHc/V0ut0qV0keI/AAAAAAAARBM/0ShMepfJ21symdQy5z4dxoR-wx2r6ClCwCKgB/s1600/P1260829.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1qu-_0MgEHc/V0ut0qV0keI/AAAAAAAARBM/0ShMepfJ21symdQy5z4dxoR-wx2r6ClCwCKgB/s640/P1260829.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian, Brandon and Daniel keeping it gangsta on top. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aVpnmZCLGWQ/V0ut0lWN4lI/AAAAAAAARBM/xFQnN1GlJ2oqq_05COLTfANiTC-QZcwMwCKgB/s1600/P1260822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aVpnmZCLGWQ/V0ut0lWN4lI/AAAAAAAARBM/xFQnN1GlJ2oqq_05COLTfANiTC-QZcwMwCKgB/s640/P1260822.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views up towards Bubbs Creek</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uMUfKvn1D1g/V0ut0qQ-9OI/AAAAAAAARBM/Wmknfy-2qHsu5plZkq-vPWECfRL4NTt3ACKgB/s1600/P1260819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uMUfKvn1D1g/V0ut0qQ-9OI/AAAAAAAARBM/Wmknfy-2qHsu5plZkq-vPWECfRL4NTt3ACKgB/s640/P1260819.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daniel getting close...</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;">Daniel took the last glory pitch to a spot where we unroped and continued to the top. We were rewarded with incredible views of The Sphynx, North Dome, Charlotte Dome, Bubbs Creek wall, the Grand Sentinel towering above and the rest of the Kings Canyon with the approaching mean-looking clouds. Getting back was a guaranteed adventure of its own, so we wasted little time on top. About thirty minutes of hiking, one two rope rapell and another single rope rap, took us to a section of 4th and low 5th class downclimbing. The parking lot was reached sometime after 10pm. After enjoying a social dinner, I passed the fuck out and woke up sometime around 7am. Daniel and Adam were gonna go up and attempt another route. Knowing how long the previous day took and needing to be at work on Monday, I threw in the white flag and decided I will do a little hike and organize my gear back at the car. Lately I decided to listen to my body more often. When I am tired or don't feel like climbing, I won't. Sending another route does sound better in numbers, but as activity I do out of joy, do I care to do it when it doesn't make me feel good? Not really.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BHJxNsS7pB4/V0ut0idsWWI/AAAAAAAARBM/zqRMOtv92Mg3AV0ZeLW4u15JDzjtwE4NwCKgB/s1600/P1260827.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BHJxNsS7pB4/V0ut0idsWWI/AAAAAAAARBM/zqRMOtv92Mg3AV0ZeLW4u15JDzjtwE4NwCKgB/s640/P1260827.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PAoTtHmHfoM/V0ut0ku-gVI/AAAAAAAARBM/dm-I5TCJDFUQvV0vzrCTpVxzp--5okaCACKgB/s1600/P1260849.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PAoTtHmHfoM/V0ut0ku-gVI/AAAAAAAARBM/dm-I5TCJDFUQvV0vzrCTpVxzp--5okaCACKgB/s640/P1260849.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ran into two idiots on the way down. One of them is Daniel and the other is me...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W8DfthGOv-0/V0ut0g8ymyI/AAAAAAAARCA/yxHJ-jvaxKw0ntG2_8khOPBtJaVlyHI-gCKgB/s1600/DSC03793.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W8DfthGOv-0/V0ut0g8ymyI/AAAAAAAARCA/yxHJ-jvaxKw0ntG2_8khOPBtJaVlyHI-gCKgB/s640/DSC03793.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daniel and Adam on the side there. I am no Tom, but this is the closest thing to El Cap report in SEKI! :)</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cZ6ZpSweVKU/V0ut0uyDD4I/AAAAAAAARBM/wTfgZd6FB6UkOUb9MXwftWbRZaadq73GgCKgB/s1600/P1260832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cZ6ZpSweVKU/V0ut0uyDD4I/AAAAAAAARBM/wTfgZd6FB6UkOUb9MXwftWbRZaadq73GgCKgB/s640/P1260832.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Bubbs Creek Wall looked like a sad slab from the top</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KmnFYxTe-6c/V0ut0j1yknI/AAAAAAAARBM/A3x6ywnncjElD7tXPV2kz34P9dH5bFl4QCKgB/s1600/P1260824.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KmnFYxTe-6c/V0ut0j1yknI/AAAAAAAARBM/A3x6ywnncjElD7tXPV2kz34P9dH5bFl4QCKgB/s640/P1260824.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Sphynx</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;">On the way out, I got a few photos of Daniel and Adam climbing mid-way up the wall. A part of me was burning with envy, but my knee and the lower back were burning with pain. Next day, I went to work, following which I had enough PSYCHE to send the gnar at the gym.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;">BONUS SPRAY! </span></span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ijOr1i3wLNE/V0ut0sPgGjI/AAAAAAAARB4/EV4PP5cGdN8spObs5SPg6hxCeP608QaSACKgB/s1600/P1260682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ijOr1i3wLNE/V0ut0sPgGjI/AAAAAAAARB4/EV4PP5cGdN8spObs5SPg6hxCeP608QaSACKgB/s640/P1260682.jpg" width="486" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Sick beta for sending the Cookie Monster in the Valley. Don't layback, do splits...Just Kidding</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9muzck689A/V0ut0ib2rZI/AAAAAAAARB4/tGhymjtSuEI5Iej-ooT-dyEhdIzldqvfgCKgB/s1600/P1260685.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9muzck689A/V0ut0ib2rZI/AAAAAAAARB4/tGhymjtSuEI5Iej-ooT-dyEhdIzldqvfgCKgB/s640/P1260685.jpg" width="488" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gotta crank brah</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-quVyC4dtjuE/V0ut0juubtI/AAAAAAAARB4/2T93A8tFejkFPJia__8IZyF9wu08EZwxwCKgB/s1600/P1260698.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-quVyC4dtjuE/V0ut0juubtI/AAAAAAAARB4/2T93A8tFejkFPJia__8IZyF9wu08EZwxwCKgB/s640/P1260698.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian on Separate Reality</td></tr>
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<b> And random shots from SEKI</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ySEqdvHRc-c/V0ut0ldXFuI/AAAAAAAARCM/20OMMjHiwLwPy38jMaCmu5qVPleN4wbCwCKgB/s1600/DSC02426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="354" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ySEqdvHRc-c/V0ut0ldXFuI/AAAAAAAARCM/20OMMjHiwLwPy38jMaCmu5qVPleN4wbCwCKgB/s640/DSC02426.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angels Wings, Cherubim DOme and the Globe above them</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ssL8oXT6hoU/V0ut0mTDeSI/AAAAAAAARCA/yVx4LhVC3wwwjuE8KDWbhWD3JOvnxlJagCKgB/s1600/DSC03768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ssL8oXT6hoU/V0ut0mTDeSI/AAAAAAAARCA/yVx4LhVC3wwwjuE8KDWbhWD3JOvnxlJagCKgB/s640/DSC03768.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Fin and Castle Rock Spire</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O9GDBbTLCr8/V0ut0mhq0UI/AAAAAAAARCM/ys6qTDOvK8YMXWV68WaWShqkJJijETKTwCKgB/s1600/DSC02384.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O9GDBbTLCr8/V0ut0mhq0UI/AAAAAAAARCM/ys6qTDOvK8YMXWV68WaWShqkJJijETKTwCKgB/s640/DSC02384.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking west from Eagle Scout Creek drainage</td></tr>
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<br />VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5370680056437115425.post-71926104608787066712016-05-18T17:40:00.003-07:002016-05-18T17:40:59.862-07:00Moro Rock - Modern Guilt (FFA IV 5.12)*****<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;">When Brian invited my friend Alaina and I to work on free-climbing Modern Guilt in the end of the winter of 2015, I was blown away by the difficulties. Unable to free ANY of the pitches leading up to the Spice Ledge, my mood was as ominous as the sky. The necessary break on a lofty ledge was interrupted by a few drops of rain, which forced Brian to take off for an attempt at the pitch above. I knew nothing about this pitch, aside from "it is really cool, also kind of hard and exciting," which was all that Brian had to say before launching up. <i>A year later, I came back to rope solo the route in order to work on the pitches and understood what he meant by that statement. Honestly speaking, I was blown away Brian attempted the pitch in the rain!</i> About half way up, we had trouble communicating, as the wind made things tricky. Than all of a sudden I heard clearly <i>"Taaake in slaaack! I am about to whip!!!"</i> I had time to take in a portion of the building slack and lift my eyes to see a body airborne for over thirty feet. It violently slammed into the vertical wall below quicker than I let out an F bomb. Wide-eyed and taken aback I lowered Brian to the safety of the ledge and mumbled, <i>"that was quite a ride...now, how do we get out from here?" </i>Good news was that there is a 5.9 crack option for bailing. Bad news was that by the time we pulled the rope and organized the belay, the rain transformed into a downpour, while I was the one volunteering to lead it. Felt obligated, as to that point, my contributions to the ascent were limited to hangdogging and whining about the holds of all the wrong sizes. Never experienced rock climbing through a waterfall, but it turned out frightening, as expected. </span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;">We were able to bail, make it over the summit and even found a business card from a guy who knocked off a giant rock that nearly killed us. My favorite thing about that day was being able to show up to work on Monday. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vitaliy on Modern Guilt, Day 1.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9_Ab8LKGczY/Vz0IV9gDUjI/AAAAAAAAQyo/adZWl4sIEwocooYh8DAhhaC-FmIbHAGIgCLcB/s1600/mg3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9_Ab8LKGczY/Vz0IV9gDUjI/AAAAAAAAQyo/adZWl4sIEwocooYh8DAhhaC-FmIbHAGIgCLcB/s640/mg3.jpg" width="416" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me figuring out an alternative traverse to the 5.12 slab</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CSW8wEP3SSU/Vz0IW2AD0cI/AAAAAAAAQy4/Le4ejB-DBv4iIABY4CoJy8mSj3E9giC7QCLcB/s1600/mg6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CSW8wEP3SSU/Vz0IW2AD0cI/AAAAAAAAQy4/Le4ejB-DBv4iIABY4CoJy8mSj3E9giC7QCLcB/s640/mg6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">WOOT! Photo of Brian by Brian. How did he do that? Not sure, but he takes cool photos all the time!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian pulling down on sweet crimps</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy Brian after sending the gnar. Castle Rocks behind him with the Angels Wings etc in the clouds.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ckReFx8c0vM/Vz0IUV1IrRI/AAAAAAAAQzE/pcR4GZBRb0IXZS_2MRqaKqetH5sB0xp_QCKgB/s1600/MG2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ckReFx8c0vM/Vz0IUV1IrRI/AAAAAAAAQzE/pcR4GZBRb0IXZS_2MRqaKqetH5sB0xp_QCKgB/s640/MG2.jpg" width="458" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down at the 1st pitch</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2nd pitch</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tUK2kAFeQkk/Vz0IXa_TPxI/AAAAAAAAQzE/QXqWLeY8IKYR31USsOmb7rO93vISczKCACKgB/s1600/mg9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tUK2kAFeQkk/Vz0IXa_TPxI/AAAAAAAAQzE/QXqWLeY8IKYR31USsOmb7rO93vISczKCACKgB/s640/mg9.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian in a cool dihedral</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;">Needless to say, I had no desire to climb on Moro Rock for a while. Till Daniel, Alaina and I </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;">attempted a new route on Panther peak in the Fall of 2015. I predicted the route to be awesome and told Alaina it will likely be a cool FA to be a part of. While jamming in an overhanging fist crack on the 2nd pitch, a foothold broke off, sending me on a ride. Ended up ripping off a chunk of skin and not breaking bones by a miracle. It was a second unexpected fall for me on that pitch alone. I French-freed my way up the last several feet to a ledge and discovered a featureless wall above. Bailed. Same day, we went on to establish a few more new pitches with Daniel and Alaina on the sharp end. The following day, I wasn't up for much adventure climbing. Since Moro rock has a tiny approach, Alaina and I settled for Levity's End (IV 5.10 R) and the South Face (IV 5.8). Both of them were enjoyable and I thought it would be foolish to ignore the short approach. I decided to use the next partner-less weekend to drop the ropes over Modern Guilt. </span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;">The climb itself has an interesting history. Unlike majority of the routes on Moro Rock it was put up on rapell, with intentions to become a difficult free climb. Before completing to bolt the route and free climbing the whole thing, the first ascentionist moved away, leaving it as an open project. Brian put in a bunch of time and work into trying to free the line. When I hung my ropes and sampled the climbing on a warm, sunny day, I realized why it has been a fun project for those guys. The climbing was fantastic! Sustained, fun, acrobatic and for me, NAILS HARD. Hanging a lot on most of the pitches, I still had a good time. Rock climbing on cruiser terrain is fun, but for me there is more satisfaction in figuring out how to perform individual moves and working on linking complicated pump-inducing sequences. Some may brush off top rope bouldering as 'lacking adventure' and everyone can have their opinion, but I found this process to be highly rewarding. Unable to see how the hell would the route go free for someone with my skills, I went to rest with intentions to do it again on the following day. Knowing the route a bit helped. But I continued to get owned, which I didn't mind - working on difficult face climbing was the whole point of the outing. The quality of climbing delivered hours of fun and I noticed much improvement. Following the weekend I got in touch with Brian about working on finishing the route. He was happy to have ANY help, as it isn't easy to find partners for working on long difficult climbs. On the next trip we worked on pitches once again, while adding bolts so that the route would be appropriate for climbers trying to onsight - not only for those fortunate enough to top rope the route into submission - making fun of myself here. :) ...In my honest opinion, top roping the route into submission is still damn fun, if one feels like working on hard quality pitches, with a short approach and easy access, this route is a good choice. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian's tagline can give you an idea of steepness on the crux pitch</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ztuZ16SgnkI/Vz0IUm-OVfI/AAAAAAAAQzE/gkQt99WE0rc2U8ab9318oouTVzwL3LrbACKgB/s1600/mg10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ztuZ16SgnkI/Vz0IUm-OVfI/AAAAAAAAQzE/gkQt99WE0rc2U8ab9318oouTVzwL3LrbACKgB/s640/mg10.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another cool 11- pitch up high.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-br2sEWbLglY/Vz0IWMZjohI/AAAAAAAAQzE/mi0rwRSxWRcCxVvFPR0Nu-Bq0jutgpdtACKgB/s1600/mg4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-br2sEWbLglY/Vz0IWMZjohI/AAAAAAAAQzE/mi0rwRSxWRcCxVvFPR0Nu-Bq0jutgpdtACKgB/s640/mg4.jpg" width="358" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brian climbing the first pitch (5.11+). Really cool pitch IMO!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2x5wJ7gH7QI/Vz0IVd8Y5GI/AAAAAAAAQzE/Mal8dHOXrCgGamcsYiJXXjtYmzYyKpxAwCKgB/s1600/mg13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="466" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2x5wJ7gH7QI/Vz0IVd8Y5GI/AAAAAAAAQzE/Mal8dHOXrCgGamcsYiJXXjtYmzYyKpxAwCKgB/s640/mg13.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Redpoint of the slab crux!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2cFfu5jeRPY/Vz0IV63ETrI/AAAAAAAAQzE/lBEHAU29k40y0v9N0cgpdN2i8hM5X2zbgCKgB/s1600/mg16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2cFfu5jeRPY/Vz0IV63ETrI/AAAAAAAAQzE/lBEHAU29k40y0v9N0cgpdN2i8hM5X2zbgCKgB/s640/mg16.jpg" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfect granite! Yes! WOOT!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9cilvj5WPe0/Vz0IVHJQwtI/AAAAAAAAQzE/x5uld2q_qYQwixMc_X2-oPWOJhs6AWPVwCKgB/s1600/mg12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9cilvj5WPe0/Vz0IVHJQwtI/AAAAAAAAQzE/x5uld2q_qYQwixMc_X2-oPWOJhs6AWPVwCKgB/s640/mg12.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last two pitches are a cruise with views of Fresno..I mean no views. Fresno is covered in a cloud of smog.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQC_Z4RqF0b9UNTfE-J9WUggFDyswFYYpKycUuM_qZ85wr_LfjGQMTMgS8U2TDUn_D_wpX79W4VyXpNfYzfxr3RTR4Gqd4vzk8vvSlTaPuhboO2hJQtdTYMhEVR50IOGxagSVI6a_SoETj/s1600/3rl1h8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQC_Z4RqF0b9UNTfE-J9WUggFDyswFYYpKycUuM_qZ85wr_LfjGQMTMgS8U2TDUn_D_wpX79W4VyXpNfYzfxr3RTR4Gqd4vzk8vvSlTaPuhboO2hJQtdTYMhEVR50IOGxagSVI6a_SoETj/s640/3rl1h8.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can downgrade the route all you want! My hopes people will actually have a good time on it! :)</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif;">Before climbing the route ground up and free, to my luck I was able to find a variation around one of the cruxes. The variation went for me at 5.10+, while Brian sent the original 5.12- slab variation, which was very impressive to watch! To my biggest surprise, I was able to follow the first crux 5.12 clean. Till that day I was only able to free the individual moves, without linking the mega sustained section of the pitch into one. Brian's beta was very helpful and my power endurance definitely improved. Maybe in the future, when I become a better rock climber, I will get back on the route to try leading that pitch myself, but for now I'd like to encourage better climbers to get on it ASAP! The perfect granite, sweet crimps, knobs and chickenhead-covered headwalls are waiting! Eight pitches check in at 5.11+, hard 5.11, 5.10, 5.12, 5.12- or 10+, 5.11-, 5.10+, 5.11-, 5.9 and 5.8, with the route taking an impressive and completely independent line up the West Face of Moro Rock. Even though I have not done the First Ascent and my role on the FFA was minor, I am still very excited to have contributed some! </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">For those interested in doing the climb: </span>https://www.mountainproject.com/v/modern-guilt/111750252</span>VividRealityhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13522162515949240519noreply@blogger.com0