Wednesday, November 25, 2015

The Globe - FA of The Standing Ovation (1000 ft - III 5.10)

While climbing different formations in the area, I noticed two attractive domes on the same ridge-line with The Prism and the Saber Ridge. Variety of sources revealed that the local climbers dubbed these as Choss Boobs. However, no one knew if one or the other had actually been climbed. Likely due to both of the faces being steep, with multiple intimidating roofs cutting across and the rock which seemed funky. The bigger of the two was especially impressive and at least over a thousand feet tall. The Prism and the Saber Ridge, both of which I climbed earlier in the summer, are composed of solid white granite with awesome features. The rock on the domes looked unlike anything I have seen in the High Sierra, with much of it composed of different shades of red.
The Globe is the bigger of the two. First to climb the other formation, gets to name it! :)
Nice spot to camp in the Lone Pine canyon
Base, with the head-wall looming above
Brian is beat by the sun, but excited about another awesome climb!
The smaller of the two domes, is not that small!
Both Brian and I were puzzled by the mystery and excited to see what it is like for ourselves. From the High Sierra Trail, we took the Lone Pine cut off and continued towards the Elizabeth Pass. When we were slightly above the domes, we cut below the smaller of the two, on its west side. Up close, both of them still looked steep and complex. After some discussion, we decided to take a direct line up the middle of the bigger formation. Go big or go home. Hopefully both. It was the last day of a week long outing, during which we already climbed five new routes. We were happy with how the trip went and focused on finishing it without an accident. The day went better than we expected, with fun climbing, enough protection to keep things from being very runout and awesome views to all sides. The red rock was covered with awesome features, which allowed us to pull several of the roofs on large jugs. Hero climbing at a very moderate grade. Even though the climbing was never too hard, it was never too easy. Terrain we covered had no sign of previous passage and neither had the summit. Much of the face allows for 'have your own adventure' sort of climbing on good rock. 
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Steep! Amazing crimps give way to big orange jugs!
Brian about to pull the final crux
But there is still a big roof ahead..that goes at 5.8 JUGS!
What a great final day of the trip! Back side of the Angel Wings, Hamilton Dome and the towers in the background
The top!!
While climbing, we did not find a nipple and the rock was the opposite of choss, we named the formation the Globe, so that it could fit in with its neighbor to the east - the Prism. During the week long outing we read Shakespeare during the time we did not climb, eat or sleep. Since many of his plays were originally performed in the theater named the Globe, we named the route Standing Ovation (1000 ft - III 5.10), for the wonderful climbing it offered. Even though, we had enough time to attempt the smaller of the two domes, we decided to report it as possibly un-climbed and hope it will attract other climbers to have own adventure in this pristine area. Recent years brought plenty of climbing activity to the walls surrounding the Tamarack lake. Now, the area is rich with established modern gems and much potential for further exploration still exists.