Tokopah Valley is a magical place. Unlike many of the other
destinations around the state, I fell in love with it from the first sight. My
first outing to this Valley did not involve rock climbing, it was the rarely
done ice climb named Moonage Daydream that landed my friends and I on top of
the Watchtower in the Winter of 2013. Even though the hike to the base did not
take much longer than an hour, we felt as if we climbed an ice route on a
remote granite spire. Maybe we were in Karakoram, or possibly Tien-Shan?
As we scratched our way up an 800 mixed route we did not see any other people all
day. It was us and the view of granite formations that teased us from across
the Valley. Back than I had no idea what they were named, if they had any
routes on them, who stood on top of their summits, but I really wanted to climb
them all. Suspended in a semi-hanging belay off of a few ice screws I gazed
toward the domes and imagined perfect lines that could go up their flawless
walls. I wondered if the giant roof in the middle of the lower dome is passable
and how incredible it must be to camp in a spot with views of Alta Peak, Tokopah Falls and the Watchtower.
Lower Tokopah Dome with routes that we climbed indicated. Photo from southernsierraclimber.blogspot.com
Views from Lower Tokopah Dome
Surrounding rock
Me on the FFA of the "Reach Around Flake". Fun foot work but most of it is in the upper body.
This chimney
system is "The Boardwalk Chimney 5.8 550 ft." Tom's beautiful route "Welcome to Wallmart 5.10d 550ft"
pulls the roof to the right.
Daniel leading the third pitch on Beauty and the Beast (5.11- A0 650 ft)
Some time passed and my
dream transformed into action. Research revealed that one of the formations was
named Santa Cruz Dome and had a route to the top. More research with the locals
revealed that there is another route that has been climbed part way up the
Lower Dome but aside from that no one seemed to know. My friend Daniel
went out to the upper dome and climbed a possibly new route. He claimed there
is a potential for other adventures. Even though I did not expect much out of
it, we set ourselves for several great outings. In the Winter and Spring of
2014 I got out to the Santa Cruz
and Lower Tokopah Dome for a total of nine days. My friends and I ended up
climbing an awesome 800ft line on the Santa Cruz Dome and four more lines that
range from 550 to 700 feet on the Lower Tokopah Dome. A few pitches that
we have done could have possibly been climbed in the past. But majority
of the lines involved bolt-protected face climbing and showed no signs of
previous passage. All the lines were climbed ground up and bolting was
done from stances or hooks, which as I found out could be a bit scary. I hope
this report will get other people excited to try some routes off the beaten
path. It is possible to climb some awesome established pitches, and put
up some of your own.
Giant flake that is the crux of Tokopah Reality
VIDEO
Chicken heads high on the Boardwalk Chimney (550 ft 5.8)
Brian leading the first pitch of Tokopah Reality (5.11 700 ft).
Tom following pitch two on Tokopah Reality
The crux! Reach Around flake
If there is one TO DO route out there, it must be Tokopah Reality (700 ft 5.11). We
gazed at it with intimidation for a few outings in a row, but it went free! It didn't just go free at a reasonable
grade, but turned out to be so good that I think people should climb it and
see for themselves. Honestly speaking it is an instant classic! The feelings
I experienced when I stood at the base of the crux pitch before leading it
are hard to articulate, and harder to explain why I experienced the same fear
before I followed it on the following day. The unusual nature and variety
this climb offers would be exciting for anyone looking for an adventure off
the beaten path. There are a few pitches in CA that majority of climbers from
the whole United States
know. The Narrows, Harding Slot, The Great Roof, Thank God Ledge, Separate
Reality along with a few more. Difficulty of these pitches have little to do
with their popularity. 'The Reach Around Flake' pitch deserves to be included
in the list. It is clean, has enjoyable climbing, spectacular setting. In
addition to the wild crux, there are four more quality pitches, one of which
is a full 60 meters of chicken head hero-climbing.
Upper Dome. Daniel and I climbed the FA/FFA of Usually Its Sunny 5.10c 800ft up the middle of this giant face
YahoooooO Brian!
Looking at the flake and the giant roof that it pulls
Daniel leading pitch 2 on the Boardwalk Chimney. Check out the sea of clean rock.
Leading the first pitch (crux) of Usually Its Sunny
Upper Tokopah Dome AKA Santa Cruz Dome
Looking down a classic chimney on Santa Cruz Dome
Daniel leading pitch 5 of Beauty and the Beast
Daniel following a beautiful face pitch on Beauty and the Beast
We
decided to name the route Tokopah Reality because it features wildly
overhanging climbing found on Separate Reality, with a twist of local flavor specific
to Tokopah Domes. The setting of it is hard to beat. Views of the Watchtower
and the High Sierra, giant roof above you, serene location with no crowds and
three hundred feet of air beneath you as you perform a monkey swing to reach
around the overhang.
Looking down from the knobby headwall on Tokopah Reality
The other routes are fun too. Each has something special to offer. The Boardwalk chimney takes the natural line up the SW face of the Dome. It could have been climbed back a while back, but our research did not find anyone that would claim an ascent. The route is fairly fun and sustained. It requires wide gear and being able to run it out through easier sections when the crack is too wide to accept any gear. Very good route for beginner climbers to test out their squeeze chimney and heel-toe skills. There are some horizontal placements, awesome knobs to sling and granite of highest quality, which could be said about all the routes that we have climbed. I wrote about it here - The Boardwalk Chimney.
Tom trying to lasso a knob for pro on fourth pitch of Tokopah Reality (700 ft 5.11)
Views of the Watchtower as the storm approaches. We bailed to the giant ledge and went down.
Brian leading the 2nd pitch (OW) on the First Ascent and FFA of the Tokopah Reality.
A climb with a funny story to it is Usually Its Sunny (800ft 5.10c). On the first trip, in
January 2014 it was Daniel, Hunter, Tom and I attempting to climb a new line on
Santa Cruz Dome’s massive South Face. Tom bolted a section of difficult face
(crux of the route) prior to getting into a beautiful finger and hand crack that we took to the top of
the pitch. I started up the second pitch, but since I was a total noob at
drilling bolts it took me a bunch of time to drill two. Being a large party on the
third day of climbing did not help our psyche. It was the day we were supposed
to hike out, so thoughts of real food and other comforts led to a bail. Daniel
and I came back in a few months and completed the line to the top. I was
nervous about leading the pitch Tom bolted but was able to pull off a send.
Daniel took the second pitch (5.8) and ended up doing a bunch of stemming, face
climbing and weird chimney moves under a giant flake. I led the next pitch and
it turned out to be more enjoyable – a 5.9ish entrance was followed by 60 feet
of classic chimney moves under a giant flake. It is hard to find an unclimbed
chimney with better rock quality and no choss. The only one that comes to my
mind is on the Lower Tokopah Dome. : ) As I neared the top of the chimney I was
getting soaked in the stream of snow melt that was coming from the top of the
dome. It snowed heavily a week prior and I was getting drenched. Dark clouds
and NOAA’s 20% of precipitation forecast meant we were going to get dumped on.
As the hope to finish the pitch, make an anchor and bail crossed my mind, I saw
our pack bouncing down the wall and onto a snow field at the base. “It
unclipped itself from the anchor when I was moving a few things around,” yelled
Daniel. “Well, that just eliminated the bailing option,” I thought. As I
climbed into a long and runout lay-back I realized it also eliminated the
option to wear our approach shoes on the descent, the option to eat, option to
drill a bolt on the sea of slab above and option to wear a jacket when the sky
will break loose. I took this pitch for full 60 meters to the top of a flake
and was psyched to find semi-solid placements to make an anchor. Since the bolt
kit was gone and I did not have a solid 3 piece anchor, I was able to put
together a semi-solid 5 piece anchor. By the time Daniel got to the top of the
pitch the wind got to me and I was shivering. I begged to lead the next pitch
so I could warm up. By the time I got 30M off the belay I slung exactly one
knob and placed no cams. I was in the middle of a long slab pitch with a double
rack to #2 and a single set of cams to BD #6 hanging from my harness. One kit
would be more appropriate and greatly appreciated, but it was 600 feet below,
slightly out of reach. In 55 meters the slung knob off the belay ended up being
my only piece of protection. I felt silly climbing the long slab pitch while
giant cams smacked my thighs, but as I pulled to the top of a belay ledge I was
happy to find out I did not carry these large pieces for no reason – they made
perfect placements for the anchor . Daniel took us through the final headwall
and we un-roped for the final walk to the summit. Descending through large
patches of snow while getting rained on sucked. We were without our approach
shoes or rain shells, but giant smiles covered our faces – we just climbed an
awesome new route up a 800 foot face, in winter. After enduring the shit
weather and sucky descent we called it “Usually Its Sunny.”
First pitch of Usually Its Sunny (800 ft 5.10c) with majority of the slab out of view
Daniel styling the layback on pitch 3 of Usually Its Sunny
First pitch of Usually Its Sunny 800ft 5.10c
Raging at camp
Daniel and I celebrating another fun climb.
Cool dike high up on Boardwalk Chimney
Welcome to Wallmart (550 ft 5.10+) was established by Tom Ruddy and Hunter Bonilla on our first trip. First pitch is one of the best thin face routes you could find anywhere. It
tests your skills on friction and composure well above your gear. Even though the pitch is
fully bolted and requires only a blue or green alien for
protection, it features sporty climbing from bolt to bolt in the upper
section of the route. It is never dangerous but gripping. Tom bolted it on hooks and from stances creating a true masterpiece. I tried to lead the first pitch late in the day and had to bail, the thing is hard and incredibly good! Even though I climbed to the top of pitch one on the following trip while following Tom's sent, we did not go all the way to the top. The climbing above looked fun and worthy of a trip. I will make sure to climb the full route when an opportunity presents.
Belay ledge leads to another thin flake
Views of Tokopah Valley and Alta peak
Tom sent the
incredible 5.10+ pitch on Welcome to Wallmart (550 ft 5.10+)! Heady lead bolted by Tom in impressive style. I TRd this twice and received a lot of pleasure from
thin climbing on perfect granite. Leading it would still take a lot of sweating.
More cool face features
Beauty and the Beast (600 ft 5.11- A0) is my second favorite climb on these formations. Named after a beautiful second pitch that climbs a 150 foot section of awesome face climbing and pitch number four, which is a rope length of offwidth/chimney climbing. Daniel and I dreamed and obsessed over getting to the large ledge in the middle of the face for quite some time and on the day after we climbed a route on the upper dome we finally succeeded in making it up there.
On a
prior trip we noticed a short chimney system which led to a ledge part way up the
face. After climbing it we noticed an older bolt and got a little sad because
it meant someone have gone this way. Above it however we found a beautiful face
pitch with difficulties to 5.10 and no sign of previous passage (no bolts). We
realized that the older bolt was used to bail off the ledge and proceeded up
with more excitement. Bolting the face pitch and getting to a giant ledge, we
labeled The Balcony, took remainder of the day. I started up the giant offwidth
and was annoyed by a thin section leading into it. Thin crack below had a lot of dirt that I had to clean in order to make it usable. I tried to lead it, but could not free the moves even after trying to top rope it from my high piece. After we bailed down
and got back to camp I was a little bummed. Not only did we have to pull up on
the old bolt to get to the face section above, I had to aid several moves
before I got into the offwidth. The crux of the face pitch didn't feel too easy
and still had to be led clean. We only had one more day to finish the route and hike out in order to return to work by Monday. We ate, went to sleep and all I
could do was to pray for good luck. It worked fairly well. I was able to sent
the face pitch AND the thin moves getting into the offwidth. Even the longish
runouts in the offwidth went without an accident. I back cleaned my large cams
through the climb and was happy to have them to built a belay station. Daniel
took a short but awesome handcrack to a final section of slab where we placed
our last bolt. Both of us were super excited about climbing this route because
it offered great climbing and pushed us while we led into the unknown.
Brian pulling the bulge off the belay ledge
Pitch 4 on Tokopah Reality finishes with incredible knobs at the base of another headwall with more giant knobs. Incredible climbing
Typical chicken heads on Tokopah Domes.
Me leading P5
Starting another line
Me stance drilling.
There will be more variations! There will be more independent lines! There will be more people getting out and having fun! This place is incredible, please keep it this way by packing out your trash and respecting the environment!!! :)
During the rest day Luke and I started contemplating bigger
things. Even though I am lousy (relatively speaking) at face climbing, success
on Black Velvet Peak allowed me to gain enough confidence to consider the
Original Route on Rainbow Wall as a possibility. Another climb I wanted to
attempt was the Cloud
Tower. Both of these, to
me, seemed like a big personal challenge as is. Luke’s idea about climbing
these routes was a little different, “LET’S LINK’EM UP!” I tried to propose an
easier link up, “maybe we do Cloud
Tower and Crimson Crysallis?”
“Yea, we can do Crimson Crysallis, on the way back after we link up the Cloud Tower
to Rainbow Wall,” said Luke. His energy was contagious and I got excited about
the link up myself.
Cloud Tower!
"Don't mess with me"
Cool rock on Cloud Tower. Reminds me of Hatun Machay, Peru
Luke leading the awesome splitter on pitch 3
We had an alpine start and got to the scenic loop entrance several
minutes before 6am. Made good time on the hike in and I linked the first two
pitches of 5.8 to make things go a little faster. Luke took the awesome 5.10
splitter and we were below the crux of the route – a 5.11d corner. Since Luke
has sent this pitch before, I tried to get the OS and led it. I ended up taking
two falls and my ego quickly approved the 5.12a rating that is listed in some sources.
Common sense opposed it, “you are not a 5.12 climber, so why are you surprised?”
Before these two settled, Luke got up to the belay station and set off for the
next lead. He linked the amazing fist crack with a fun chimney tunnel through
and managed to booty another cam. For those who are not familiar with Luke, it
is very unlikely that he does NOT booty something on every other climb he does.
Not sure if calling him a booty machine is appropriate, but he does well
collecting booty. *His wife is a rock climber too and knows what I mean when I
say booty. I am not being a bad wingman here! By the way, closest thing we had to a party
while climbing at Vegas was a late night trip to Five Guys and Yogurtland after
climbing the Warrior! Luke is a terrible wing-man, not me!!!*
Me on the 5.11d crux
Crux pitch on Cloud Tower from the valley
Luke leading the awesome 5.10c fists pitch
I am leading the 5.11c pitch on Cloud Tower
Anyway, we were talking about climbing the Cloud Tower.
I was at the base of the 5.11c corner and it was another big lead of mine. Since
I fell on the other crux pitch, I was really relaxed about this lead, and sent
the pitch without breaking much sweat. Actually didn’t seem harder than the Fox
or Our Father, both of which are 5.10ds. At times trad ratings confuse me so
much that I wish “if it was super hard but you free climbed it - give it a 5.9+”
system was still in effect. After hauling our mini bag to the anchor I
continued up and linked the pitch to the next 5.12+ pitch - in my case A0 bolt ladder with some 5.10 free climbing mixed in. Upper
section was really loose, and I was glad I had a green alien to pull on. Next
up was a tough 5.9 offwidth which was Luke’s lead, thank god. We simul climbed
the 4th class terrain above and I almost pulled a giant block while leading the final chimney of the climb. Even though this pitch was
fun, I wish more people climbed it on regular basis so it could clean up. It
was about 1pm (?) and we were already done with the Cloud Tower Direct. Seemed like
we had a chance for the link up!
Luke leading the OW on Cloud Tower Direct
Views from top of the Cloud Tower
There it is! We though we could approach it by climbing the towers ahead
Yeah, Rainbow Wall at last!
Here is where the story got a bit more entertaining. We
followed a major trail down and at one point thought it can’t be the right one.
“It is too good! Must be hikers’ trail that leads down. We need to get across
to Rainbow!” We found a loose, wet and scary gulley that led us to some ledges
above. Terrain here became a bit more real. And we soloed 5th class
ledges and something that I would call a 5.8 OW. In a way, this seemed like a
way for bad-ass climbers that would link up Cloud Tower
to Rainbow Wall. After we got to the top of the formation, that we spent the last
hour climbing we realized how screwed we were. About a thousand feet
above where we wanted to be. We tried to rappel, but did not have enough trees
to continue. At some point we decided to climb up the headwall we just rappel using
the top rope set up we had going. It was probably a First Ascent of a 30M 5.7+
pitch which we will make sure to submit in the AAJ….NOT. In any case, we
rappelled and reversed our adventure back to the “hikers trail.” It led us down
and we ended up 300 or so feet below the Rainbow Wall. It was after 4pm and we
did not feel bad-ass enough to climb the Rainbow Wall in under three hours, so
we bailed on the idea and went back down to our car. Even though we didn’t complete
our planned link-up the alternative was a kick-ass day nonetheless!
Me leading Our Father 5.10d. Who said RR doesn't have awesome cracks?!
Me leading the awesome arete pitch (5.11a) on Delicate Sound of Thunder
Luke leading the 5.11b crux of Delicate Sound of Thunder
Crack gets me psyched
Luke on Tales from The Gripped (5.11b)
As a benefit from not being very tired on the following day, we decided to do some cragging in Black Velvet. We got on a few awesome routes including Delicate Sound of Thunder (2p 11b), Our Father (3 p 10d) and Tales from the Gripped (3p 11b). The climbing on all three was pretty challenging and fun. Our finger tips got trashed after three days of climbing and we decided that on the following day we will let them heal by climbing The Warrior!
