-Vitaliy M, Jan 2014
|Lower Cathedral as seen from the North Buttress of Middle. Fissure beck is a left leaning prominent dihedral to the left of the east buttress proper. GNAR!|
|Christiano climbing pitch 1 (5.8 chimney). PSYCHED!|
|Full value 5.8 chimney. SENDIN!|
My bro and I were psyched to send the gnar on the first Sunday of Spring. Usually I like to go big on a Saturday, but da East Buttress seemed simple on paper Reid dropped in 1857. For some reason I forgot that technical ratings in Reid’s guide don’t usually show how sustained, difficult or scary a climb is. Also, the topo suggested there are no bolted cracks or bolted belay stations for convenience, I was hoping it was an error due to it being outdated, and decided to leave the power drill behind. When I climbed the North Buttress of Middle Cathedral pitches that got a 5.9 rating in Reid's felt like a solid 5.10 and the DNB (5.11a R in ST guide) seems like a reasonably simul-climbable hike with a little 5.10b crux per topo. I am not trying to say EB of Lower is a sand-bag central or that it is harder than The Rostrum, but if you are used to Supertopos and are using a Reid guide for the first time, don’t expect the "5.8 chimney” to feel nice and fuzzy like the one on NEB. : ) Since you crushed the Serenity-Sons link up with your girlfriend, don’t think of EB as a step down, this route is worth doing, has incredible views and is one of the best 5.10 multi-pitch routes in the Valley! Even though it is not YET retro-bolted.
|Me leading 5.10a fists. Pretty steep! Perma draws would be appreciated. Cam got in a way of my jam at the crux and I had to do a lay-back move. GNAR!|
|I can live with this view...would be sweet to cut a few more handcracks there! #GOBIG!|
|Christiano looking for bolts at the base of the Fissure Beck...CRUSHING!!|
|Me stemming before the 10c crux. This pitch is no Lunatic Fringe or Catchy! SENDIN!|
|"Hey where are we? You sure this Reid dude climbed the same route?" CRUXIN BRO|
|I can make a banana into a pudding!|
|Christiano climbing over a giant hollow flake. GNAR!|
|Christiano on the summit. SICK SEND BRO!|
|Thinking about cutting cracks, chiseling and placing perma-draws. Life is good....|
|NW Face of Middle Cathedral|
- If you are HARDCORE like my friends who did the route in two hours, some nuts, doubles from green alien to handsize, and the monkeys are sendin! Don't forget to tag the other Cathedrals on the hike to the pizza deck.
- Valley Hardmen do it in 5 pitches with some simul climbing. They will "pass the .10a fists and the Fisher Beck without even knowing it." And think of the crux as a one move wonder.
- Light like me? Bring doubles from green alien to BD #3. Blue alien protects the crux well and #4 is nice to have. Most likely last of the three Major Cathedral Rocks to tick, so go do it, it is not worse than the other two!
- Even lighter? Bring a BD#6 and you should feel secure.
- Don't think this is an outing for you? Harden the f.....up
To understand some of the sarcasm that is hidden (by hidden I mean like in your face) in this report please see the links above and friend request a few outdoor male models on Facebook.
and of course