When we got back to
the car after climbing Inti Watana To Resolution Arete I was psyched we didn't have to ever
use headlamps. When I checked my phone and read a text message from Mark, I got
even more excited:
“Fuck it! We are
doing Levi29 tomorrow. So hopefully you aren’t too worked.”
Well, aside from doing
a Grade V route on 6th consecutive day of climbing, I feel great! Some
active rest, wouldn’t hurt though. Mark and I settled on climbing Unimpeachable
Groping (6 pitch 5.10+) on day 7 and saving Levitation 29 (III 5.11c) for the 8th
day. On the way back to the Bay Area I was really excited that my body handled eight
consecutive days of climbing. However, those who have heard of Henri Barber’s
climbing habits will smirk. If you have not, I would strongly suggest to listen!
http://enormocast.com/episode-39-henry-barber-enough-said/
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| Eagle Wall - Levitation 29 goes up the middle of this beast |
Not much to say about Unimpeachable Groping. It was steep,
clean and had cool climbing. Kind of the usual, I loved it. Mark however, wasn't
impressed. He was impressed by Levitation 29 though! Since he sprained his
ankle on the descent from Epinephrine he didn't get to climb much for majority
of our trip. I been climbing my ass off every day, so we decided he will take
the evens, which included the 5.11c crux of Levi 29. I would be lying if I didn't
admit Levitation 29 was really intimidating to me. 5.11c face climbing. Jesus,
I usually suck on 5.11 face in the gym. Crimps are probably my biggest weakness
and I sport climb as much as I get laid. Since Mark is stronger at face climbing
it was logical for him to take the crux pitch anyway. But at least I had a better
excuse for not fighting hard to take that lead.
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| Mark leading pitch 1 of Levitation 29 |
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| Another look at Mt. Wilson |
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| 'Snail eye' before leading pitch 2 (5.11) on Levi 29 |
We started the approach early and got it done in exactly two
hours. We took the low 5th class direct option which seemed fairly
easy to follow, but not very direct. There was no scary scrambling on it. Top third
of this approach was like walking up a never ending Half Dome. Steep
slabs for eternity. As Mark racked up for pitch one another party showed up and
got in line behind us. “Great,” I thought, an audience to see me flail like a
rag doll. I told them that if they were mega crushers who would be slowed down by a
few dudes who want to ‘get up’ the route, they could pass right ahead. They
said they weren't in a rush and made a great first impression, which was
strengthened by continuous positive communication we had through the day. At
times having another party on a route is a nuisance, but these guys only
brought joy to my day.
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| Mark on the approach with Mt. Wilson behind him |
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| Mark following pitch 2 |
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| Party behind us on pitch 2 |
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| Mark leading the crux - pitch 5 |
Mark led the first pitch not without huffing and
puffing. Even though ‘just’ a 5.10b, this pitch was more interesting than any
of the 5.10 pitches we have done on the trip. Next pitch was a 5.11 roof
which is supposedly another crux of the route. It seemed giant and I was
intimidated. The lead started out well but than I got hit with some insecure
stemming and was forced to slow down. After figuring it out I continued up on cool edges, used a two finger pocket to get under a wild roof and than it took me a long time to commit to
some action there. After a few false starts I tried to do something I had not much faith in and almost
took a fall. Even though falling here would be like falling on top rope, I really wanted to do the moves clean. I was barely able to down-climb back to my stance likely with help from a
tight belay provided by my patient partner. After a bit more thinking I figured
out a completely different way of putting the moves together. The moves
actually went smooth and I got the pitch clean! Mark ran up the next pitch – a fun
5.8, and I took pitch four (5.10b).
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| Mark following pitch 6 |
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| Guys behind us having a blast |
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| Original bolt on route |
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| Another view of Mt. Wilson and the descent canyon |
After we got done with the first four pitches, the crux was
staring us in the eyes. We heard a lot about it, but seeing it in person was a different experience. Thin face climbing to a short section of fist jams through a
roof than crimpy face climbing to the anchor. The pitch was so tightly bolted
that I don’t think there would be much difference in a length of fall between
leader and a follower. : ) However, locking off and clipping the
draws/rope into the bolts makes it a different game. Mark did really well but
messed up the sequence through the roof. I had a desperate time but followed
the pitch clean. It took a lot out of me and I was pumped out of my mind. While
leading the sixth (5.10d) pitch I thought I was gonna go for a ride mid way up
when my footwork and fatigue from following pitch five put me in a difficult situation. I was really proud of my ability
to block off fear of falling, concentrate on pulling hard, making the moves to
work my way out of shitty situation and succeed. Mark led the 7th pitch
(5.11a) and we were done with the hard climbing. Both of us thought the 6th
and 7th pitches were quality pitches with difficult climbing. Some
people recommend rapelling after pitch five, but we don't understand why. Last
two pitches are 5.8 and 5.9 and we were not sure if we could rappel after those
so we rapelled after pitch seven. I was fairly happy with my performance on the
route – no falls, no hangs. Since I am a mountaineer at heart, the only regret I have was for not going to the top of the formation, which I am sure will happen at
some point in the future. I enjoyed the route very much and the whole outing to
Red Rock kicked ass. The climbing style was completely different than what I am
used to in CA, which was enjoyable and challenged in the same time. Can’t wait
to go back and climb in Red Rock some more!
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